How do I run my heater lines?

[Clash0901]

UPDATE: check page 3 to see my final solution.

I have no idea what i'm going to do for heat. I cut back the lines as everybody mentioned doing. But now i'm sitting here with thes 1" long heater core pipes out of the firewall and no clue how to get a hose to stay on them without slipping off.

Anybody have any suggestions? I would really love to have heat for spring and fall weather.



Thanks

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by Clash0901

I have no idea what i'm going to do for heat. I cut back the lines as everybody mentioned doing. But now i'm sitting here with thes 1" long heater core pipes out of the firewall and no clue how to get a hose to stay on them without slipping off.

Anybody have any suggestions? I would really love to have heat for spring and fall weather.



Thanks

Take a heavy duty wire crimper, cut and grind it down so that half fits inside of the piping, and it becomes a bead roller essentially.

Like so:


I'll try to photograph mine tonight, I wont need them after this weekend if you want them.

[8RZ]

I've never had to do that but would worm clamps work?

[venturaII]

Similar to what was done here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=283

All you need is enough of a bead to keep the hose from slipping off when clamped. I don't know what the system pressure is, but it's almost certainly under 20psi, so it doesn't have to be bombproof...

[Clash0901]

The crimp idea is decent BUT i really don't want to take this engine back out just for 2 heater core pipes.

A worm clamp may work but I was told eventually it would pop off if there's no bead, so I'm naturally worried.

I also thought about just flaring the ends out with a pipe flare, but even for that, the engine needs to come out

[Leonardo]

I'm not 100% sure this is how things work, but here is my idea. Remove your heater core. It looks like it removes/installs from the cabin, not the engine bay. Flange the ends to your spec and re-install. Taking the dash out is easier than the engine.

[gtpvette]

Maybe if you could get a partial bead with a crimper or at least a few bumps it'd be enough to keep a hose on. I've also seen a few guys use the gates Powergrip heat shrink clamps.



[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4O91YqHbp8c[/ame]

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by Clash0901

The crimp idea is decent BUT i really don't want to take this engine back out just for 2 heater core pipes.

A worm clamp may work but I was told eventually it would pop off if there's no bead, so I'm naturally worried.

I also thought about just flaring the ends out with a pipe flare, but even for that, the engine needs to come out

Then why not try clamping it on first and just running it? Worst case scenario is it comes off and you get a tow home. Just make sure your first drives are around town. At that point, you look into solutions requiring more work. It's not like you won't know that the hose came off...the cloud of steam and antifreeze behind you will be pretty obvious..

[Zer0]

They make bulkhead plates that they use to reroute the lines to a different location. Pull the HVAC box under the dash, decide where you want them in the engine compartment mount the bulkhead and run your lines.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...xoCfUIQAvD_BwE

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by venturaII

Then why not try clamping it on first and just running it? Worst case scenario is it comes off and you get a tow home. Just make sure your first drives are around town. At that point, you look into solutions requiring more work. It's not like you won't know that the hose came off...the cloud of steam and antifreeze behind you will be pretty obvious..

I agree with this plan. Just clean up the heater core pipes with emery cloth real good, make sure the hose ends are "fresh" ly cut and fit snug.

Use a new worm clamp, positioned so as you can get a good grip on the screw. Tighten it down as hard as the screw will allow.

Fire er up and get the engine good and hot - if it holds first off, there is a good chance it will hold till the rubber hoses rot away.


humfrz for Bubba

[Zer0]

Whatever you do make sure it's secure. If it blows off and you don't notice your going to overheat, and possibly loose the head gasket. I would put a bead on the tube to secure it with a clamp. Hoses don't grip straight tube well. That's why they put a bead on them from the factory. Just my 2 cents you might get lucky without a bead on the tube. I wouldn't gamble on it.

[ILLSMOQ]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...0erl/overview/

I used those and AN’d the whole thing

[Clash0901]

I think I'm going to be pulling the dash to get this thing sorted properly. I don't want any leaks or hoses bursting off if it can be avoided.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by Clash0901

I think I'm going to be pulling the dash to get this thing sorted properly. I don't want any leaks or hoses bursting off if it can be avoided.

The AN fitting route is very solid/proper, and way easier than pulling a dash. I'm now back tracking and going that route instead of my fix. Thanks for the suggestion ILLSMOQ