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07-04-2017, 09:38 PM | #15 |
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07-04-2017, 09:55 PM | #16 | |
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Pro-tip: Crank the blower up high pulling fresh air so the evaporator isn't able to get too cold. Otherwise if the evaporator gets cold enough, like when the blower is turned down low, a thermostat will start cycling the compressor (and fan) to keep it from frosting up.
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07-04-2017, 10:05 PM | #17 | |
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The Jackson radiator runs afoul of one of the "does nothing else" rules. Pity, its an attractive setup. Assume it passes on dimension and weight and mounting. C |
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07-04-2017, 10:07 PM | #18 | |
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07-04-2017, 11:16 PM | #19 |
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Get spray nozzles and hook them up to your wiper fluid. Have them spray the radiator. 😂
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07-04-2017, 11:33 PM | #20 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to nico_rsx For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (07-05-2017) |
07-05-2017, 12:22 AM | #21 | |
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Also, we know that the heat transfer from condenser to air is limited, blah blah blah... Forced induction through the cooler stack at slightly elevated temp will still be far more effective than letting it sit in stagnant air.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | cjd (07-05-2017) |
07-06-2017, 03:20 AM | #22 |
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I thought installing oil coolers wasn't allowed in Street/Street Touring?
This has devolved into a discussion about air conditioning but there are still other things you can do to cool the car down. 1. Always pop the hood. Under hood temps get really high. 2. Spray your radiator, intake box, and engine cover with water. 3. Lay a bag of ice on top of your intake box. 4. Buy some high speed battery powered fans and point them at your engine, radiator, etc. (yes the legality of this has been checked).
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07-06-2017, 07:54 AM | #23 | ||
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14.10.A Quote:
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07-06-2017, 08:30 AM | #24 |
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Thanks for all the discussion in the different paths it has taken.
Refining the topic: Is allowing the engine to continue running a better or worse solution than turning the engine off when parked then back on to make the run? One point made was that other than more fuel burned, continuous running did not appear to make a difference. Other thoughts? |
07-06-2017, 08:52 AM | #25 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dattran86 For This Useful Post: | Brzzee (07-06-2017) |
07-06-2017, 08:52 AM | #26 | |
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07-06-2017, 10:18 AM | #27 |
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Get an IR thermometer. Try cooling it off one way, then point the thermometer at the engine block in various locations, recording the temps. Do another run. Try cooling a different way, then point the thermometer at the same locations, and record data. Repeat as many times as possible.
Then let us know what you found. Notes: Make sure you let it cool down for the same amount of time. Take before and after measurements then look at the differences. Average results for each method over as many runs (of the test) as possible. Sample size is important with this amount of uncertainty in the experiment. |
07-06-2017, 10:52 AM | #28 |
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If I'm single driving, I'll pull back into grid and let it idle while I shutoff camera/data and reset tire pressures (usually a few minutes), then I'll shut off engine. I've found oil temps drop more when shutting the engine off vs. leave it idling.
If codriving, we usually just let it idle, but if turnover is uncharacteristically slow we'll shutoff. Hood up always. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Wepeel For This Useful Post: | Brzzee (07-06-2017) |
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