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09-09-2018, 11:23 PM | #43 |
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Per the Mishimoto instructions, the oil cooler is supposed to attach to the crash beam with two reused pop-clips. Even with the "self tapping screws" they provide to help secure the bottom of the cooler to the plastic base plate I wanted it more secure. Instead I bought a bought a pair of 4" machine screws, washers, and locking nuts from Home Depot to bolt the cooler to the crash bar. Those, plus the self tapping screws firmly secured the cooler in place.
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09-10-2018, 12:16 AM | #44 |
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After routing the two braided lines, removing the oil filter, placing the spacer, the sandwich plate, and the oil catch, I began tightening the bolt that holds them in place. The torque spec from Mishimoto was 30ft-lbs which I set on my torque wrench. While tightening the bolt, it suddenly started getting easier to turn - never a good sign. It turns out the aluminum oil catch had started to fail (see the pictures).
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09-11-2018, 12:30 AM | #45 |
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I contacted Mishimoto customer service, and they were very helpful about getting a replacement part. I elected to pay for expedited shipping as I needed to get the car up and running as it's my commuter. I tried verifying the torque spec with them, but the guy I spoke with said he had no idea what it was supposed to be.
Once the new collector arrived, I compared Mishimoto's installation guide torque spec to a few other installation guides I found online (Perrin's calls out 25ft-lbs), and they were all pretty close making me suspect my collector was faulty. Starting at 10ft-lbs I started incrementally tightening the bolt to about 28ft-lbs (I was still a little nervous), but this time it held up. I added some oil and primed the cooler (flooring the gas while turning the key turns the engine over without starting). After starting the car and taking it for a drive, I checked for leaks and didn't have any. I took it out for a quick spin to open it up a bit and rechecked. There was some leakage at the sandwich plate, so I tightened things up a little more. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Viper8 For This Useful Post: | Zer0 (09-11-2018) |
09-13-2018, 02:12 AM | #46 |
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I took the car out for another spin including a few good pulls, and sure enough there was still a small leak at the sandwich plate. Befuddled, I rechecked my oil level and it was showing well over full! It finally dawned on me that when refilling my oil after the oil cooler installation I had been checking the oil level while the car was on my lift. My lift not being quite level led me to overfill the oil. I suspect this may have resulted in some abnormally high pressure encouraging the leak.
While trying to figure out the best way to remove oil I decided to just loosen the oil pan drain bolt enough to let it start dripping. While getting my tools I saw the Fumoto Quick Engine Oil Drain Valve I had bought and had been waiting to install during my next oil change. |
09-13-2018, 02:20 AM | #47 |
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I decided to try to swap the oil drain bolt with the Fumoto "mid-stream" as I'm not due for an oil change yet. I removed the drain bolt as I put the Fumoto in place. After tightening the Fumoto valve, I was able to use the quick drain for the rest of oil I needed to drain. This valve works like a champ! These things are awesome; I wish I had discovered these years ago! Highly recommended. I'm actually looking forward to my next oil change now.
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09-15-2018, 12:25 AM | #48 |
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After draining a sufficient amount of oil, I removed the Mishimoto oil catch, sandwich, and spacer plates, cleaned everything off, and slowly re-torqued everything. This time, the oil catch held at 30ft-lbs (whew). I put the filter back on and gave the engine a good run. No leaks so far. Next track day I can make is late November at Hallett. What am I going to do for two whole months?!
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09-17-2018, 01:55 AM | #49 |
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To gain some additional confidence that the oil cooler wouldn't leak on the track I wrung the car out a bit and logged a few 3rd gear pulls:
https://datazap.me/u/viper8/3rd-gear...data=1-4-10-11 https://datazap.me/u/viper8/3rd-gear...data=1-4-10-11 Interestingly, the first pull was in the morning, and the largest flkc recorded -1.95. The second pull was in the afternoon, and the largest flkc recorded was -3.25. I'm going to flash the updated OFT map: Stg-2-Plus-v4.03 and see if it makes any difference. Also, all the oil cooler fittings held well with no leaks. |
10-23-2018, 10:27 PM | #50 |
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So I finally flashed the new Stg-2-plus-v4.03 tune (I was running the OFH v1 tune prior) to see if I could feel any differences. After giving the car about a week to settle into the new tune, I noticed more throttle lag than previous, and the car seemed less responsive at all throttle ranges. I logged a few 3rd gear pulls and noticed adv mult at 0.7 with minor flkc corrections (in both directions):
https://datazap.me/u/viper8/3rd-gear...0&data=1-10-11 https://datazap.me/u/viper8/3rd-gear...1&data=1-10-11 |
10-26-2018, 09:46 PM | #51 |
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This worried me at first that significant knocking was initiating an AM drop from 1.0 to 0.7. I finally sat down and decided to delve into the differences between the OFH v1 tune and the new Stg-2-plus-v4.03 tune using OpenFlash Manager, and here's the highlights...
284 same tables 19 changed tables 38 new tables As for the changed tables, the significant differences to the v4 tune include: Initial AM at 0.7 vs 1.0 (causing the laggy feeling) Base timing B table timing reductions above a load of 0.7 and 3700rpm Start-up idle speeds were decreased A/F learning limits were narrowed down Overall, it appears the new tune is more a more conservative replacement to the v1 OFH tune. I miss the response so I made my own starting from the OFT Stg-2-plus-v4.03 tune. I used the following two awesome references for my tune modifications from @steve99 and @Wayno: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74754 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94822 Using these I changed: 1) the initial Adv Mult back to 1.0 2) modified the MPG scale (my car consistently reads 2MPG higher than actual) 3) modified FLKC correction values to end in X.X1 for monitoring ease 4) adjusted radiator fan temperature settings 5) modified low throttle response - tip-in enrichments Last edited by Viper8; 11-05-2018 at 08:41 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Viper8 For This Useful Post: | steve99 (10-27-2018) |
10-28-2018, 09:32 PM | #52 |
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So, before I could flash the new tune to my car, the mod by @zkv476 on fender trim caught my eye:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70815 I am not a fan of the faux vent fender garnish for the FRS (in fact I dislike all fake vents on cars) so I decided to take matters into my own hands. I like the BRZ trim better than the FRS trim, but it's still fake. Not wanting to spend an arm and a leg I decided to work with what the car came with. Fender before and after garnish removal... (the garnish removed fairly easily by hand - no tools required) Last edited by Viper8; 10-31-2018 at 10:03 PM. |
10-31-2018, 10:20 PM | #53 |
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After removing the fender trim, it took a little while to remove the foam tape on the back. Then I drew out the general shape I wanted with a sharpie and got to work with the dremel:
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The Following User Says Thank You to Viper8 For This Useful Post: | JeremyR (11-01-2018) |
11-04-2018, 09:30 PM | #54 |
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Next I used an orbital sander to smooth out the cut lines and finish removing the foam glue from the backside. After some more hand sanding for the curves, I scuffed the front side with 220 grit and then steel wool to prep for painting.
I bought a black metal gutter guard from home depot for about $3.75 and cut out the shape I needed with tin snips. Then I did a test fit to make sure the trim piece would still sit flush with the metal mesh on the back. |
11-05-2018, 08:44 PM | #55 |
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Quick update on the OFT:
I've been driving my adjusted OFT stage2 plus v4 tune for about a week with a few tweaks including changing iam to 1.0 (but no changes to base timing B). My car has happily returned to being its peppy old self. Here's a few comparisons for anyone else curious about the differences while running an Open Flash Header... Old OFHv1 tune (some fairly significant FLKC between the flags): https://datazap.me/u/viper8/3rd-gear...1&mark=130-151 OTS OFT stg2 plus v4 (laggy feeling with some FLKC in both directions): https://datazap.me/u/viper8/3rd-gear...0&data=1-10-11 Customized OFT stg2 plus v4 (feels similar to OFHv1 tune - no FLKC): https://datazap.me/u/viper8/custom-o...data=1-4-10-11 Due to there being no FLKC at all in the customized tune, I may be able to slowly start changing some of the timing base B values back towards those in the v1 table while observing what happens. |
11-07-2018, 09:49 PM | #56 |
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Some additional progress on making the faux fender garnish vents functional...
I used duct tape to protect the areas I didn't want to accidentally scuff. After cutting through the fender with a grinder, I smoothed the edges with a dremel, and then used a file to remove burrs and help prep the edges for painting. After scuffing the back side of the trim piece and cleaning it, I used JB Weld to glue the mesh to the trim piece. |
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daily driver, frs, naturally aspirated, oklahoma, track build |
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