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Old 08-10-2018, 06:56 PM   #15
SuperTom
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Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
I don't see any reason to change up what you have now. Looks great and will be just fine on the highway. It's already tougher than the bumper cover.


Its not tougher than the bumper. Im thinking of using my leftover aluminum bar and making a riveting in a supports down each side and the middle. Will keep the weight total at ~2lbs and be much stronger
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by D-rek07 View Post
Any idea what the heat resistance of that plastic is? I know the bumper is very close to the exhaust but the material properties I'm sure are different between the two plastics.




Melting point162 degrees C, 324 degrees F

In my situation its not near any mufflers just the pipe. I think I have enough space to not melt. But hey this is an experiment, I just drove 100 miles to work and its fine.
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Old 08-11-2018, 12:19 AM   #17
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Its not tougher than the bumper. Im thinking of using my leftover aluminum bar and making a riveting in a supports down each side and the middle. Will keep the weight total at ~2lbs and be much stronger
Ok, not tougher, but tough enough. I think you're onto something with that material.
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Old 08-11-2018, 02:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by SuperTom View Post
Melting point162 degrees C, 324 degrees F

In my situation its not near any mufflers just the pipe. I think I have enough space to not melt. But hey this is an experiment, I just drove 100 miles to work and its fine.
Awesome, glad it worked out
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:27 PM   #19
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Coroplast is a neat material to prototype with.
I made a couple fighter kite boxes 20 years ago to cart around festivals and through air cargo.

I sourced a 4x8' sheet at a local sign company for about $20 I think.
Just looked online and amazon is saying $135 !!!!
I think most of that would be shipping rather than material. Check locally first.

I tacked the boxes together with cable ties and they're still performing like new.
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Old 08-11-2018, 05:26 PM   #20
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most of us use al. for underbody panels. They take a lot of punishment.
Find a friend with a small brake and cross crease the panels to stop flex.
.5 ml. is plenty thick if you want still more rigidity make defuser vanes.
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Old 08-14-2018, 04:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bcj View Post
Coroplast is a neat material to prototype with.
I made a couple fighter kite boxes 20 years ago to cart around festivals and through air cargo.

I sourced a 4x8' sheet at a local sign company for about $20 I think.
Just looked online and amazon is saying $135 !!!!
I think most of that would be shipping rather than material. Check locally first.

I tacked the boxes together with cable ties and they're still performing like new.


It is really great material. I have 4mm, 6mm, and 10mm thick 4x8 sheets to make stuff out of. The 10mm is crazy strong
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:08 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by SuperTom View Post
Purpose is to create a wind shield when changing from a stock style suitcase muffler. This should stop air from getting trapped behind the rear bumper which creates a parachute.

I have the Borla exhaust which drops ~10lbs off the car. I know Borla has there own diffuser for their exhaust but it also adds ~8lbs back on. Negating the weight loss of the exhaust.


For the record I want to make this out of a sheet of Carbon Fiber. I would need a 2' x3' sheet to make. 2x4 sheets are $300 for 1mm thick. Crazy! If anyone can find a sheet cheaper please let me know


For this version I used Coroplast as the plate. I want lightweight,I have no idea how the coroplast will hold up. At least I can transfer the design if I find a better material to use


Materials used all found at home depot
Sheet of coroplast need at 2'x3' to work with
Threaded rods
Hollow aluminum tube
nuts bolts washers, fender washers

Total weight 1.5lbs
weighted everything at ~2lbs then minus everything I didn't use ~.5lbs

Parts on scale


Rods bolted up to stock heat shield brackets.



Now showing the aluminum tubes with fender washers giving a solid mount for the shield



Installed! The plate tucks inbetween the rear stock diffuser and mount. used the stock rear diffuser attachments just switched out the black plugs with bolts. Also cut the rod bar after everything was mounted.



An inside view


Have it up all the way to the rear subframe. Plate sits on top or the LCA bolts


Final pic!
Great write up and DIY. Great seeing eco ideas mixed in with the 86 stuff.

Could air still get in there from the sides and farther up? I'd think if air could get in there it would push down on the panel.
Any flex allowed with the rods/mounting ?

Cost of this setup?
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by NARFALICIOUS View Post
Great write up and DIY. Great seeing eco ideas mixed in with the 86 stuff.

Could air still get in there from the sides and farther up? I'd think if air could get in there it would push down on the panel.
Any flex allowed with the rods/mounting ?

Cost of this setup?
Well it looks like some air gets up the sides as I had a dusting of dirt inside.

I was going to use my remaining Aluminum Angle brackets to make supports so now I decided to add some side walls!

I could only go about 2.5" high before touching the pipes.

Cost estimates
Coroplast $9
Stainless bolts washers, threaded rods ~$10
aluminum tube $7
Aluminum angle braces $5 each x 2 =$10
Total = <$40

I think some air could possibly get up inbetween the sides of the center exhaust pipe. I may try to add some weatherstrip to fill the space

Total weight of plate with new supports still only 1.25lbs !! Using aluminum rivets was key to mounting the supports and staying light. So total with hardware is still only 2lbs for EVERYTHING!





You can see wall comes right up to exhaust pipe


I added the brace near the center pipe to fill in Air space. I think I'm too close. If vibration becomes an issue I will cut it back some.



Wall goes as far back as I could go until the sway bar





Besides filling in the sides of the center exhaust pipe I think I'm done with this project...
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:44 PM   #24
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Had some leftover white coroplast and used it to fill the tunnel area and used clips in the stock holes



Front pipe area, as you can see the frame starts to curve upward so that was about as far forward as I could go.



Have it all the way back meeting up with my Borla muffler which fills in the rest of the tunnel void


It is up against the pipe as it gets close to the Borla so some of it will melt
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Old 09-20-2018, 02:35 PM   #25
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The DIY guy back at it again! Looks legit. I got the JDM underpanels, and the velox trans tunnel panels. This looks like it would fit perfect behind the tunnel panels as they only go about half way back. You keep adding more things to my list to do.

Also debating about a diffuser. You got any plans on getting one of those?
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Old 09-20-2018, 05:48 PM   #26
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The DIY guy back at it again! Looks legit. I got the JDM underpanels, and the velox trans tunnel panels. This looks like it would fit perfect behind the tunnel panels as they only go about half way back. You keep adding more things to my list to do.

Also debating about a diffuser. You got any plans on getting one of those?
Actually these are in the same position as the velox trans tunnel. The velox trans tunnel goes a little farther forward where the curve on the frame starts. Buts its about 75% of the coverage


Could be confusing because the Borla muffler sits infront of the fuel tank. That works as a wind shield behind the white plates I made.

The original wind plate in the beginning of this thread covers the area where the large stock muffler would act as the wind shield. I see no reason to spend the $$$ on a diffuser when this serves most of that purpose
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