Coolant Temps Running High

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by orthojoe

Yuppers. You know you're getting better if you're overheating.... unfortunately. If overheat is an established issue with a certain setup, but you haven't overheated yet, then it's only a matter of time.

So true.

Or, something is wrong with the cooling system.

For example, my S2000 started to overheat when it started warming up last year. The cause was the AC condenser in front of it was SO banged up that all the direct airflow coming in through the bumper opening was blocked. ALL of it. I was effectively only using the top half of the radiator, and wasn't overheating during the winter due to cooler ambient temps. Swapping in a fresh condenser solved the problem.

I don't believe the stock FR-S/BRZ has a cooling issue as far as the coolant goes, but I would keep an eye on the oil temps. We ran around 80 laps in 100F+ weather at ACS last year at 86Fest, which is something like 96% WOT time without having any overheating issues. I'd say around 30 of them were back to back when we were giving vendors and attendees rides.

[johhnc479]

Originally Posted by Guillaume

I observed just that while stuck in traffic this morning...

Water temp would go up until approx. 212F, then start falling quickly to the "normal" 194F. It then starts to climb up again and the cycle continues.

Is it some sort of cooling issue or just poor regulation?

On my 944, (the only car I have where the factory gives you a real temp gauge) the gauge goes up when idling until fan comes on, then back down. I wouldn't say it "cycles" though. Fan usually stays on until I'm back up to speed. Don't typically spend much time in heavy traffic in that car though.

[Dezoris]

Guys as an FYI this is not a pot stirring thread, I am not saying the car is over heating or has a cooling problem. I am trying to establish, whether or not the stock radiator needs to be changed when adding oil cooler and inter cooler.

This car also have seriously buttoned up under hood area, seals on front and back of hood and skid plate allow for virtually nowhere for heat to dissipate.

As of right now, my limited testing is showing higher temps stock, so this concerns me obviously.

Sounds like you guys so far have mixed opinion, so please double check and post back if you can run logs.

[celica73]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Guys as an FYI this is not a pot stirring thread, I am not saying the car is over heating or has a cooling problem. I am trying to establish, whether or not the stock radiator needs to be changed when adding oil cooler and inter cooler.

This car also have seriously buttoned up under hood area, seals on front and back of hood and skid plate allow for virtually nowhere for heat to dissipate.

As of right now, my limited testing is showing higher temps stock, so this concerns me obviously.

Sounds like you guys so far have mixed opinion, so please double check and post back if you can run logs.

It seems to me that your car is running abnormally warm.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

It is already established that a thicker radiator is absolutely necessary when you meet these two criteria:

A. You have FI
B. You track your car

You can check out the Tuned episode on YouTube where they track test team VCMC's turbo frs. Full blown offers a new radiator as an addon. Robispec has a radiator + oil cooler all in one package.

Saw that episode, that was with Turbo which is even worse than S/C for heat. I will log coolant temps at the track this weekend.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are you logging WOT time and fuel consumption? Only reason I ask is that I'm assuming that you may not be as experienced as the faster guys here. Some of these guys have 15+ years of experience...

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

So true.

Or, something is wrong with the cooling system.

For example, my S2000 started to overheat when it started warming up last year. The cause was the AC condenser in front of it was SO banged up that all the direct airflow coming in through the bumper opening was blocked. ALL of it. I was effectively only using the top half of the radiator, and wasn't overheating during the winter due to cooler ambient temps. Swapping in a fresh condenser solved the problem.

I don't believe the stock FR-S/BRZ has a cooling issue as far as the coolant goes, but I would keep an eye on the oil temps. We ran around 80 laps in 100F+ weather at ACS last year at 86Fest, which is something like 96% WOT time without having any overheating issues. I'd say around 30 of them were back to back when we were giving vendors and attendees rides.

That is good to know, I don't see any issue with mechanical problems with condenser or radiator as of yet.

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

sorry what does my speed, or logging WOT and fuel have to do with establishing coolant temps baselines? also not sure where experience comes in, noob or not, a hot running car needs more radiator, same with the 15 yr experienced drivers car

a car not running hot wont benefit a bigger rad, was all I was getting at
its easy to say FI=get a bigger rad, but where is the coolant data saying so?
I have yet to generate my own, so thats why I asked

So I will run some logs and keep an eye on water-I think I am asking here-not making a fact,just not sure on the verdict here myself on 'needing a radiator'

I am sure, I WANT one, however!!!!

I am looking to the early Vortech adopters for data here before I install the kit, go to the track and have cooling issues.

[CBR600RR]

OP: have you considered using Engine Ice or Water Wetter? both are known to lower engine temps

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by CBR600RR

OP: have you considered using Engine Ice or Water Wetter? both are known to lower engine temps

Water wetter, goes acidic after extended heat cycling, would have to change coolant frequently. Maybe a last resort.

Engine Ice I will look at.

[Huehuecoyotl]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

...which is something like 96% WOT time without having any overheating issues.

what am I looking for in ecutek for logging WOT? there is accel position and throttle position?

I am sure FI cars spend less time WOT in the corners, I just happen to get thru the straights and the time between corners has decreased

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by orthojoe

O'rlly? Do you mean both criteria need to be met, or just one? I would agree if BOTH are met. The jury is still out out if it is only one.

No need for sarcasm.

It is already established that a thicker radiator is absolutely necessary when you meet these two criteria:

A. You have FI (turbo) (maybe supercharger - jury still out on that)
B. You track your car

Ie. both A + B

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

where has this been established, sorry I must have missed the thread

My post was more for turbos, but my opinion is that it will also hold true to superchargers approaching 270-300 whp. The more power you make the more heat you will generate. You double the power, you double the combustion, you double the heat. I may be proven wrong.

Search the FBM thread about radiators. Watch the VPMC video too.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

what am I looking for in ecutek for logging WOT? there is accel position and throttle position?

I am sure FI cars spend less time WOT in the corners, I just happen to get thru the straights and the time between corners has decreased

Are you able to log while you're on track? There's going to be a throttle position sensor reading, and a pedal position sensor reading. While the two are related, the ECU will adjust TPS independent of PPS if it feels like it needs to (e.g. overheating and limping, TC kicking in, etc.)

WOT time in corners depends on setup... I'm sure FI cars are running more tire

[orthojoe]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

No need for sarcasm.

Wasn't trying to be. Sorry I misunderstood your original post. I was trying to clarify what you were saying. My point was that an upgraded radiator has not been found necessary if you track the car. Forced induction changes the game, though and I agree with you

[Dezoris]

Going to do the Koyo Rad setup and separate oil cooler. Don't want to constantly be data logging and looking at gauges.

I will post back results when I have the video finished.

[96z2]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

So true.

Or, something is wrong with the cooling system.

For example, my S2000 started to overheat when it started warming up last year. The cause was the AC condenser in front of it was SO banged up that all the direct airflow coming in through the bumper opening was blocked. ALL of it. I was effectively only using the top half of the radiator, and wasn't overheating during the winter due to cooler ambient temps. Swapping in a fresh condenser solved the problem.

I don't believe the stock FR-S/BRZ has a cooling issue as far as the coolant goes, but I would keep an eye on the oil temps. We ran around 80 laps in 100F+ weather at ACS last year at 86Fest, which is something like 96% WOT time without having any overheating issues. I'd say around 30 of them were back to back when we were giving vendors and attendees rides.

What oil temps were you seeing at ACS? I've run at Buttonwillow 13CW and SOW (CW and CCW) in ambient temps of up to 75 deg F and have seen oil go up to 270 deg F. Stock FR-S with Michelin PSS and Carbotech XP10/XP8 only. Average times 2:12 at BW and 1:33 at SOW so not very quick.