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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 02-26-2014, 03:08 PM   #225
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Oem 0w20 and eneos 0w20 I may go up to eneos 5w30 next time, but I'm not certain yet.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:59 PM   #226
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I recently did mine and went with Penzoil Platinum 0w-20 and the OEM Subaru filter.
Last two for me as well. Did M1 before that. I think the Pennzoil is quieter but that's completely subjective. Reading on Bob is the oil guy, the Pennzoil has a very high resistance to vaporizing (forget the technical term), and with a direct injected car that is more prone toGripping carbon deposits (the d4s helps but I still figure it's a good thing just in case.). Really solid uoas in a large variety of cars, and it's just slightly thicker at temp than M1 afe, all good things for hard driving at full operating temp.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:13 PM   #227
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I was hesitant about the whole 0w20 thing but this cold winter we've had the engine is much smoother running starting @0 F with the Mazda 0W20 High Moly Oil than the 5w30 quaker state, really glad I switch last fall. Note I did "cheat" by adding 0.5Q 0W30 Mobile 1 Racing as an additive for ZDDP.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:49 PM   #228
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I am a firm believer in evaluating the quality of evidence. For example in medicine, randomized double blinded studies hold more weight than collective individual experiences and even expert opinion. (Although more data points can increase statistical power.)


Although we can group many uoa's together, it won't come close to an industry certification because there are differences in how hard the cars were driven, modifications, and when the oil was changed. Certifications are achieved through specific testing criteria.

Alot of these less abundant oils with great street credibility may be robust, but I am having a hard time being convinced that they are better than a highly certified Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 (or penzoil platinum). What are these assumptions/facts based upon? If it was based on uoanalysis, how many uoa's was enough to convince you?
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:39 PM   #229
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How many people are using the Mazda 0w-20 w/ Moly oil?

I'm curious what some of the local reviews are about this. The amount of moly and zinc has me interested. A BITOG VOA has the VI of this pretty high. It isn't as high as Sustina, but pretty close.
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Old 03-06-2014, 05:01 PM   #230
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I am a firm believer in evaluating the quality of evidence. For example in medicine, randomized double blinded studies hold more weight than collective individual experiences and even expert opinion. (Although more data points can increase statistical power.)


Although we can group many uoa's together, it won't come close to an industry certification because there are differences in how hard the cars were driven, modifications, and when the oil was changed. Certifications are achieved through specific testing criteria.

Alot of these less abundant oils with great street credibility may be robust, but I am having a hard time being convinced that they are better than a highly certified Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 (or penzoil platinum). What are these assumptions/facts based upon? If it was based on uoanalysis, how many uoa's was enough to convince you?

This isn't a science, additive testing is the main tool used on the internet. Most UOA are worthless unless you see triple digits in iron or copper then its too late. The UOA is used to help cheapstakes extend their oil change interval more than anything. and last these UOA's don't measure a fraction of the new complex molcules in the oils, kind of like analyzing a burnt to ashes eastern dinner.

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How many people are using the Mazda 0w-20 w/ Moly oil?

I'm curious what some of the local reviews are about this. The amount of moly and zinc has me interested. A BITOG VOA has the VI of this pretty high. It isn't as high as Sustina, but pretty close.

I'm using the high moly Mazda 0-20 and love it. I did cheat by adding a half quart of 0w-30 mobile one racing oil, but the engine doesn't bog at 2krpm and its smooth throughout when cold but still takes forever to warm up. It even jump started from a completely dead battery with a tiny battery jump start pack. And the engine is quiet at idle easy to damage the flywheel by double starting.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:22 AM   #231
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the japanese manual recommends 0w-20 or 5w-30. it also has a small foot note saying to use higher viscosity oil for "heavy loads and running fast"
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:41 PM   #232
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300V 0W20; pretty well priced locally.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:04 PM   #233
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the japanese manual recommends 0w-20 or 5w-30. it also has a small foot note saying to use higher viscosity oil for "heavy loads and running fast"


My 2012 says 0w20 with the footnote saying higher visc for certain conditions. Interesting that they are recommending higher than 5w-30 now.
Elelement tuning is swearing by 30 even 40 w.


Catterman blend (with the mobile one 0w30 racing oil 1/2qt additive)) may be the best option
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Old 03-08-2014, 07:21 PM   #234
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Red Line 5W30
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:18 PM   #235
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I'll go with whatever my tuner recommends after we get the car tuned on modified exhaust. Probably staying 0w20 till FI at least.

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Old 03-08-2014, 08:51 PM   #236
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300V 0W20; pretty well priced locally.

Same here
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:47 PM   #237
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Motul 5-40 Im boosted too.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:10 AM   #238
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0W-20 Mobil 1. The one that WalMart sells for around $25.
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