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Old 10-11-2018, 04:34 PM   #10683
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https://imgur.com/RFmMomv

So I removed the two left most blade connectors to get the thick black wires out of the way. It appears that the second one from the left melted the plastic housing of the terminal. The insulation on the black wire going across the terminals also appears to be melted a bit.

Recalling my moment of brilliance, what I did specifically (99% sure) was arc the negative terminal of the starter battery across the 24v dump batteries when my wrench dropped out of my hands. It's been so long since I've thought about Kirchoff's rules and circuit theory that I'm not exactly sure what the implications of that are, simply from the stand point of where all the current went, but perhaps it is helpful to you smarter folk. I know the wrench itself took a fair amount of current as it arc welded itself to the dump battery terminal it touched.

The other observation I would note is that the sparks that came out of the controller box appeared to come out of the penetrations in the box where the dump battery cables go through. With that in mind, I have been wondering whether replacing the bank of four 35v, 1200 microfarad capacitors at the bottom of the box (Target70, is that what you are calling "cca?") would be the fix, but I expect it likely isn't nearly that simple.

I'm hoping by tomorrow, I can report on what happens when I connect the controller box up to a 12v battery. More to come.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:23 PM   #10684
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Originally Posted by vfrqqq View Post
https://imgur.com/RFmMomv

So I removed the two left most blade connectors to get the thick black wires out of the way. It appears that the second one from the left melted the plastic housing of the terminal. The insulation on the black wire going across the terminals also appears to be melted a bit.

Recalling my moment of brilliance, what I did specifically (99% sure) was arc the negative terminal of the starter battery across the 24v dump batteries when my wrench dropped out of my hands. It's been so long since I've thought about Kirchoff's rules and circuit theory that I'm not exactly sure what the implications of that are, simply from the stand point of where all the current went, but perhaps it is helpful to you smarter folk. I know the wrench itself took a fair amount of current as it arc welded itself to the dump battery terminal it touched.

The other observation I would note is that the sparks that came out of the controller box appeared to come out of the penetrations in the box where the dump battery cables go through. With that in mind, I have been wondering whether replacing the bank of four 35v, 1200 microfarad capacitors at the bottom of the box (Target70, is that what you are calling "cca?") would be the fix, but I expect it likely isn't nearly that simple.

I'm hoping by tomorrow, I can report on what happens when I connect the controller box up to a 12v battery. More to come.
well I guess you found where the smoke and sparks came from. CCA is short for circuit card assembly.
The capacitors you are talking about look like they are on a different circuit card that sits below the main card. I think that cca is the battery charging circuit (it is just a wild guess) I'm not an engineer, but I do repair avionics electronics, though I typically have the help of a schematic.

Anyway, it is possible that they could have failed, but they would not be my most likely suspect. If you want to check them that would be pretty easy with an ohm meter. If you can reach the metal leads you would just check to see if they are shorted, or open. If the ohm meter climbs while you hold it on the leads, the capacitor is charging and not likely bad. It is just in my experience but the vast majority of failures maybe 90% that I repair are by replacing microchips, next would be diodes, transistors, resistors, then capacitors. Microchips have the super fine wires leading from the legs to the chip inside and any excess current will pop them or blow them off the internal chip.

I would follow that burnt terminal the other way, onto the top circuit board. You may have to disassemble the controller. I am assuming that cca is a single or dual layered board, meaning that the only traces are on the top and bottom. So if you see the points where that burnt socket is soldered, and follow the traces to the next component, solder point, or through hole. I can't see any traces from the top side, so you will likely have to get access to the back side of the card.

I am interested to hear the details about when you hook it back up tomorrow. Will it beep when you toggle the on switch? what does the display do, does the pedal switch spin up the turbine? anyway good luck.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:44 AM   #10685
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well I guess you found where the smoke and sparks came from. CCA is short for circuit card assembly.
The capacitors you are talking about look like they are on a different circuit card that sits below the main card. I think that cca is the battery charging circuit (it is just a wild guess) I'm not an engineer, but I do repair avionics electronics, though I typically have the help of a schematic.

Anyway, it is possible that they could have failed, but they would not be my most likely suspect. If you want to check them that would be pretty easy with an ohm meter. If you can reach the metal leads you would just check to see if they are shorted, or open. If the ohm meter climbs while you hold it on the leads, the capacitor is charging and not likely bad. It is just in my experience but the vast majority of failures maybe 90% that I repair are by replacing microchips, next would be diodes, transistors, resistors, then capacitors. Microchips have the super fine wires leading from the legs to the chip inside and any excess current will pop them or blow them off the internal chip.

I would follow that burnt terminal the other way, onto the top circuit board. You may have to disassemble the controller. I am assuming that cca is a single or dual layered board, meaning that the only traces are on the top and bottom. So if you see the points where that burnt socket is soldered, and follow the traces to the next component, solder point, or through hole. I can't see any traces from the top side, so you will likely have to get access to the back side of the card.

I am interested to hear the details about when you hook it back up tomorrow. Will it beep when you toggle the on switch? what does the display do, does the pedal switch spin up the turbine? anyway good luck.
Thanks Target70. I'll report back after I power it up. Hopefully that will provide some additional helpful information.

I'm definitely not looking forward to taking apart the electronics. I've been inspecting the box extensively over the pass few days and I have yet to understand exactly how it should come apart. It does not seem to have been built with ease of repair in mind.
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:08 PM   #10686
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Do you know what this blob of solder is in the bottom right corner. The capacitors seem ok. I would be worried if they are bloated at the top or charred. But as target mentioned an Ohm test will let you know what the deal is with them. Hopefully its a simpler issue. If the little diodes are the issue, they are a pain to desolder even with a hot air rework station. Though patience can yield results
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:43 PM   #10687
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Sorry it took me so long. I finally found some spare time to hook up the controller box again. I took some video in the engine bay to get visual and audio and also got video of the voltage read out in the car after I powered things up and will post up a youtube link soon. I can say that there is a fairly awful "Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" sound coming from the controller box (I already know it's not the cooling fan) that I can't even really begin to think of what it could be and the voltage readout in the car is still going bonkers, but stays steady for short periods at like 34V, but then will read jibberish or rapidly changing numbers. Anyway, I think this might be the coup de grace for this controller box.

Also, XCLR8, I'm not exactly sure what the blob of solder is, but I will take a second look at it. Do you see this on your controller box?

Last edited by vfrqqq; 11-09-2018 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:19 AM   #10688
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Anybody here have the tune to run the oft flex fuel kit with the phantom esc

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Old 11-10-2018, 09:26 AM   #10689
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Here's the video of the controller box power up.

https://youtu.be/rbwxhALYOLo
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Old 11-14-2018, 12:45 AM   #10690
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Here's the video of the controller box power up.

https://youtu.be/rbwxhALYOLo
yeah, that sounds crazy. I don't know what could make it sound like that. Maybe the relay is switching really fast, or there is an ark that you can't see.

is the compressor spinning while it is making that noise? or when you push the throttle switch?

The only other advice I could think of is to try unhooking the compressor and cooling fan as they should not be necessary for the controller. I don't actually think that will change anything, just ensure they have nothing to do with the failure. I can't think of anything else unless you are able to remove everything from the control box or get someone else to do it if you are not comfortable/don't have the tools. I would be happy to remove/desolder everything myself if you give up. I couldn't promise anything, but it seems like a waste to trash it.

Good luck with it.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:56 PM   #10691
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yeah, that sounds crazy. I don't know what could make it sound like that. Maybe the relay is switching really fast, or there is an ark that you can't see.

is the compressor spinning while it is making that noise? or when you push the throttle switch?

The only other advice I could think of is to try unhooking the compressor and cooling fan as they should not be necessary for the controller. I don't actually think that will change anything, just ensure they have nothing to do with the failure. I can't think of anything else unless you are able to remove everything from the control box or get someone else to do it if you are not comfortable/don't have the tools. I would be happy to remove/desolder everything myself if you give up. I couldn't promise anything, but it seems like a waste to trash it.

Good luck with it.
Thanks. It's utterly heartbreaking to think I irreparably damaged my ESC with such a simple/silly mistake and I have such a hard time just giving up on it given how awesome the system is; however, I just don't know there is anything else I can do. I may yet still try to perform surgery on the controller box, but greatly appreciate and will let you know if I decide to take you up on your offer to remove/desolder everything to try and find the problem.
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:40 AM   #10692
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Maybe you should talk to al3k over on the Open Source Electric Supercharger thread. Seems like he really knows what's going on with these things.
If nothing else maybe he can recommend a replacement OTS controller.
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:05 PM   #10693
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Also, XCLR8, I'm not exactly sure what the blob of solder is, but I will take a second look at it. Do you see this on your controller box?
Let me take a look at it today, see if I can find out.

I also have my 1.5 kit for sale if anyone is interested.
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Old 12-01-2018, 01:09 PM   #10694
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Maybe you should talk to al3k over on the Open Source Electric Supercharger thread. Seems like he really knows what's going on with these things.
If nothing else maybe he can recommend a replacement OTS controller.
Thanks WNDSRFR. I'll check that thread out. Honestly, didn't even realize it existed until now.
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:10 PM   #10695
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FYI, for anyone interested, I'm putting my version 3 Phantom ESC compressor up for sale.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131825

Also, my PROcede controller.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131826
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