Subframe mount inserts choice

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

What's you guys opinions on the Stance solid bushing inserts vs the poly(or whatever) Whiteline style bushing inserts? Probably more NVH but less give right? I'm LS swapping so stiffening the diff/subframe seemed wise

Unless it's a race car, living with solid bushings can be painful.

My 86 with subframe and diff support inserts has enough NVH to annoy the missus that she wants the windows down if we go for a drive, even when its 35!° C.

Noise mainly, some vibrations at certain RPM's.

75% of my noise comes from the Whiteline diff inserts.

The added NVH from inserts doesn't bother me "much" though.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

Unless it's a race car, living with solid bushings can be painful.

My 86 with subframe and diff support inserts has enough NVH to annoy the missus that she wants the windows down if we go for a drive, even when its 35!° C.

Noise mainly, some vibrations at certain RPM's.

75% of my noise comes from the Whiteline diff inserts.

The added NVH from inserts doesn't bother me "much" though.

Well the Stance inserts aren't full replacement bushings. They appear to be a billet version of the Whiteline inserts

[JIM THEO]

I installed finally the tS >16 lower stoppers with tS longer bolts in all four subframe corners.
Car seems little bit more predictable when sliding or during weight transfer on continuous corners, imho it should have them from the factory.
No NVH increase, may be due to stiffened rear end it is more comfort now but the difference is tiny anyway.

[gpvecchi]

All 4? Shouldn't they go in front only?

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by gpvecchi

All 4? Shouldn't they go in front only?

There were some reviews in the past that the fronts do most of the work, but I'm thinking now that it is best to install all 4. You should get a bit more improvement with the rears. It looks that STI installed only the fronts to keep the cost lower. Not so much because of the additional cost of the part, but the additional installation work. I remember to pay more for labor than the parts when I installed the front in my car. Normally you don't remove completely the subframe, so I guess you need extra time if you do both front the rear.

[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

There were some reviews in the past that the fronts do most of the work, but I'm thinking now that it is best to install all 4. You should get a bit more improvement with the rears. It looks that STI installed only the fronts to keep the cost lower. Not so much because of the additional cost of the part, but the additional installation work. I remember to pay more for labor than the parts when I installed the front in my car. Normally you don't remove completely the subframe, so I guess you need extra time if you do both front the rear.

If you do one by one you only need to jack up each subframe corner when you install the new longer bolt, simply take off the old and install the new BY HAND.

[JCW 86]

Has anyone mentioned the spoon rigid collars yet? I plan on doing those in conjunction with the WL subframe inserts.

Spoon has a cool video explaining how the rigid collars work, but in short, they help mate the irregular surfaces of the subframe and chassis together. Manufacturing processes don't allow perfect mating surfaces between the subframe and chassis, and these are supposed to fill in that area making the mounting points completely flush. This supposedly equates to a whole bunch of handling goodness

https://www.spoonsports.eu/50261-na1-001.html

Some of the speedhunter guys have them on their cars as well.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/01/...-honda-heaven/
http://www.speedhunters.com/2011/06/...s_to_the_gt_r/

[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by JCW 86

Has anyone mentioned the spoon rigid collars yet? I plan on doing those in conjunction with the WL subframe inserts.

Spoon has a cool video explaining how the rigid collars work, but in short, they help mate the irregular surfaces of the subframe and chassis together. Manufacturing processes don't allow perfect mating surfaces between the subframe and chassis, and these are supposed to fill in that area making the mounting points completely flush. This supposedly equates to a whole bunch of handling goodness

https://www.spoonsports.eu/50261-na1-001.html

Some of the speedhunter guys have them on their cars as well.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/01/...-honda-heaven/
http://www.speedhunters.com/2011/06/...s_to_the_gt_r/

STI subframe bolts (from tS) do the same, they are wider/longer and close the gap so there is no horizontal movement of the subframe, along with the upper or lower stoppers (upper work on compression lower on extension) they improve the overall feeling of the rear when cornering.
See yourself the difference between the tow bolts:

[15limited]

Huh, interesting. So the "TS" bolts are different dimensionally, and still work?!

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[Tristor]

I'm really interested in some thoughts from the group on this topic. I am planning to do something relatively soon, and I'm split on whether I should run Spoon rigid collars, or if I should go for full solid bushings like those from SPL, or if I should do bushing topper inserts like the Whiteline ones for my subframe. I really want to reduce subframe slop, because as I've gotten stickier tires it's more and more obvious how much the body moves.


What's the consensus on the best solution that isn't going to absolutely torture me if I happen to drive on a rough road (which is unfortunately all over the place here in SATX)?

[15limited]

Daily driver? It all comes down to you, man. How hardcore are you? I drove solid subframe and diff mount along with all kinds of other "track" parts a hundred or so miles everyday for months. Some of my friends hate how loud the exaust is in the car, or how much vibration there can be while driving, harsh bumps. And I completely understand why, but they're also just a passenger, they dont feel the wheel in their hands, or how the car moves under you. All essentially useless when you're sitting in your commute. The largest noticeable differences for me was how quick the rear responded to hard throttle/clutch kicks, cured wheel hop and quick direction change stability.

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