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Old 02-13-2017, 11:51 AM   #15
JoeeStacks
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Great build! How is that Kraftwerks holding up?
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Old 02-13-2017, 01:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonojordan View Post
Nice welds on the JL stuff. Some of them welds on the Perrin stuff are not as clean as I would of expected for the price.
yea the JDL stuff is nice, and as far as the perrin goes, it is MIG welded which should be just as strong as TIG. I'm not a fabricator so don't quote me. However, I did read somewhere a thread that Perrin posted on this website stating that they went with MIG welding due to almost no difference in strength over TIG because TIG would have put the exhaust in the 1500+ dollar price range. But both parts are quality stuff though, highly recommend them!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeeStacks View Post
Great build! How is that Kraftwerks holding up?
Kraftwerks is holding up great so far. I've been through three belts so far. The first belt was due to the instructions of the "21mm" (bottom of the bolt head to the adapter plate) rule to tighten the belt. That belt broke when I was on the track since that setting was WAY too loose. The second belt I broke from the pulley bearings failing causing the pulleys to wobble and then have irregular wear on the belt. (that was probably also due to the first incident since the belt was too loose to begin with). Then the third belt broke when the main supercharger pulley bolt snapped in half. My guess was with Chicago's drastic swing in temperature, literally can go from 20-50 then back to 20 in a few days, probably caused the belt to become over tightened when it was too cold. Therefore, putting too much stress on that bolt causing it to snap in half and shredding the belt. It may seem like a lot, but all it really is is figuring out the belt situation. Other than that it's been good to me, hopefully I don't have any more issues!
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgranberg11 View Post
yea the JDL stuff is nice, and as far as the perrin goes, it is MIG welded which should be just as strong as TIG. I'm not a fabricator so don't quote me. However, I did read somewhere a thread that Perrin posted on this website stating that they went with MIG welding due to almost no difference in strength over TIG because TIG would have put the exhaust in the 1500+ dollar price range. But both parts are quality stuff though, highly recommend them!
Well any monkey can MIG weld. TIG welding is deff much more of an art form.
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:31 AM   #18
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Well any monkey can MIG weld. TIG welding is deff much more of an art form.
Here was their reasoning:

Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Jeff View Post
Its all a balancing act.

We showed a prototyped Tig part, but as you said we told customers they would be MIG welded for production. Its obvious why we did this, its for cutting cost. TIG is very very time consuming and would have made our system way to expensive. TIG is something people are used to seeing because of all the overseas parts that are made by robots. This is exhaust is 100% made in the USA and that is a huge cost adder for companies like us. For us its worth the added cost for control and for keeping jobs in the USA.

The finish on the prototype, and on the website are all the same as the final product. Its all a 220-ish grit brushed finish (that is what we call it). Maybe we didn't do a good job of pointing this out to customers, but we even made a small "Box" on our site pointing out the finish.



I will have to look into the info on our site to see if we are misleading customers. We never had intentions to do that. We are done with polished systems as its too "over sea's" looking to us.

I am glad you think the V-band flanges are more expensive, that is why we used them! They provide the gasket-less seal, and adjustability we wanted in the system, and not to mention better clearance for things. Yes we could have gone super cheap with some thin flanges and gaskets, but we didn't.

Over the years we have come to find that 70% of the customers out there don't give a crap about what the tubing looks like. Even fewer care less about the welding. Internally we are like the smaller % people that do care about finish, but to a point. It just comes down to being able to hit a price that suites peoples wallets, having features that make people want the system while still having tips that people like and of course good sound.

We say this to a lot of customers, but if enough people ask, we could do a premium type system that is super finished. Tig welded, CNC v-band flanges, CNC main flange, quick release V-band clamps and so on. But releasing a system like this that could be in the $1200+ range steers away a huge customer base.

I hope that helps answer your comments and also keeps onlookers from thinking we "pulled a fast one" or cheapened out on the system. We NEVER had the intentions of EVER doing that.
I guess from taking the context out, it seemed like someone was pissed about the quality of the overall unit? But all in all, it's a solid piece of exhaust. Craftsmanship is great. To top it all off, the customer service is best I've ever worked with!
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgranberg11 View Post
Here was their reasoning:



I guess from taking the context out, it seemed like someone was pissed about the quality of the overall unit? But all in all, it's a solid piece of exhaust. Craftsmanship is great. To top it all off, the customer service is best I've ever worked with!
I'm all for american made and cost savings. What I'm saying though is even for a MIG weld a few of them are pretty damn ugly. But if you have great customer service like you say you can get away with a lot of things.
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:06 AM   #20
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Just installed the Tomei 80R yesterday. and holy SH*T that thing is loud. Perrin will be up for sale. PM for details if anyone is interested. I have ALL the accessories, even all the stickers and the license plate frame that it came with when it was shipped... Less than 100 miles on it.
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Old 02-16-2017, 09:42 AM   #21
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So after driving around all day, driving to work and back, and running errands... I hate to come to this conclusion, but I will have to take back the note that I would be selling my perrin exhaust. the Tomei 80r is so sick in everyway. But with my exhaust setup, it is totally NOT DD friendly... I was hoping the cat and the resonator in the JDL pipe would quiet it down... but it's like those parts are not even there.

TOMEI 80R now FOR SALE PM FOR DETAILS. Has been on the car literally for 3 days... less than 100 miles on it.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:23 AM   #22
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updated for sale page with tomei 80r on it and a few other exhaust pieces:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...34#post2854834
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:47 AM   #23
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I would like to share what I had posted in the Kraftwerks Owner's thread here, since there's over a few hundred pages in that thread, this information may be hard to find.

For people who have this kit and are looking to do an oil cooler setup:

Quote:
Originally Posted by pgranberg11 View Post
Hey guys, so after a few months of struggling with kraftwerks sandwich plate, I took it upon myself to gather research of how to avoid using their plate due to the o-ring failing. This was rather difficult due to the fact that you needed the height to clear the oil cap and that you couldn't route hoses to the front of the car due to the pulley being in front. Here are a few pictures of what I came up with. Which is pretty much a DIY oil cooler for our kraftwerks kits.

Disclaimer, you will definitely need a 27mm THIN WALL socket. I BARELY got away with the standard 27mm or 1 and 1/16th inch socket by craftsmen. It slipped a lot, but it clicked to 25ftlbs.


Parts ordered:

Perrin oil cap (low profile so that hoses would clear)
Perrin oil spacer (from their own specific oil cooler kit for our cars)
mocal thermostat (comes with the silver spacer and thermostat, comes with 2 o ring sealers)

For the thermostat side:
EDIT You also need to order 1 ES20. This is the oil extension bolt for the 1st spacer that goes to the block. It's a mocal part which you can get from Bat Inc. You will use this to thread the perrin spacer onto the block first. The other oil extension bolt will for the mocal themrostat and the mocal spacer comes with the mocal thermostat kit.


2 Mocal 1/2" BSP x -10 fitting (sold in pairs)
1 Mocal 90 Degree Socketless Push Lock Hose End -10AN- Titaniu m and Black Anodized Finish
1 Mocal 45 Degree Socketless Push Lock Hose End -10AN- Titaniu m and Black Anodized Finish
8 feet of -10 Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black AER-FBN1000 (cut this in half 4 feet for hose length to have two hoses)

Oil cooler side:
1 Mocal Straight Socketless Push Lock Hose End -10AN- Titanium and Black Anodized Finish
1 Mocal 45 Degree Socketless Push Lock Hose End -10AN- Titaniu m and Black Anodized Finish (could probably use a 90 degree fitting and it would look better.





To route the hoses above, the hose on the right routes towards the area of the windshield washer fluid reservoir and goes the long way around. Connection on the thermostat is a 90 degree fitting. The connection on the oil cooler is a 45 degree fitting on the far left passenger side. This could probably use a 90 degree fitting instead, I didn't have one i just used what I had. The other hose on the left uses a 45 degree fitting on the thermostat and routes and loops around my flex fuel sensor and then hangs right underneath the the top of the bumper and then passes through where the intake pipe is at and goes down into the oil cooler with a straight fitting on the right side of the oil cooler.

















Lastly, if you want to run oil sensors, use the galley plug on the block OR go buy a TRD brz/frs sandwich plate and JUST the mocal thermostat. Then buy 1 ES20 oil extension bolt. Thread the TRD sandwich plate on with the supplied bolt, then thread the mocal thermostat on with the ES20 bolt.

Last edited by pgranberg11; 08-29-2017 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 04-12-2017, 12:08 PM   #24
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Velox Brake Ducts Pt 1.

Weather finally got nice and I added part of the Velox Brake Ducts, as I didn't have enough time to finish everything:

I will admit, the foam pieces that came with the kit did not stick after cleaning the ABS. Lucky for me I had extra foam from a generic A/V case from Amazon and some electrical tape did the work. I kind of went overkill with the tape and extra foam... but better safe than sorry I suppose:




















Last edited by pgranberg11; 08-29-2017 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 04-12-2017, 04:12 PM   #25
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Velox Brake Ducts Pt 2.

I installed the front section of the brake ducts to my bumper. All that's needed are pretty much the hose routing. I saw two different threads where people were using liquid nails or hot glue to glue the mesh guard on in the hole for the ducts. Totally unnecessary. The Velox brake duct has a fog light bracket that holds a plastic cup in place to route the hose in a certain way. Once that cup and fog light bracket is installed, you can take the fog light bumper trim piece and sandwich the mesh guard in the middle and it'll be so tight it will stay on.

also PLEASE TAKE NOTE, this WILL NOT fit windshield washer fluid reservoir stock or kraftwerks. PTuning is probably the only one that will fit. I'll be ordering one later some time. In the following picture you can see the kraftwerks bottle touching the end of the plastic cup that would route the hose right into the washer fluid reservoir:

Last edited by pgranberg11; 08-29-2017 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:08 PM   #26
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Velox Brake Ducts Pt 3.

Finally finished the install to the Velox Brake Ducts.

PSA to people who run Ground Control. The struts are longer and are in the way of routing the hose the way the instructions state to do so. I managed to go around. It would probably be safe to say that I would need to use a longer hose, but I'll leave it up to some track time to see how it holds up.

Instructions stated to use gaffers tape, I ended up using Gorilla Duct Tape.

Last edited by pgranberg11; 08-29-2017 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 05-26-2017, 10:39 AM   #27
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Velox Hood Louvers install

First up, drilled the holes for mounting and cutting:

I skipped the section to punch the hood. I preferred to just drill a small pilot hole and work your way up.

Key pointers below:

Note for drilling, DO NOT press onto the drill. Let the drill do it's work and put a small amount of force to push through. Don't hulk the drill through since you will dent your hood.

Vacuum the metal shavings

Tape BOTH sides to protect the paint from chipping before cutting

Probably the step that I see a lot of people skip. Paint to protect from rust.

don't over tighten the screws on the pegs. You want to tighten hand tight and quarter turn. This is plenty tight.

Install these suckers in:
















Last edited by pgranberg11; 08-29-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 05-26-2017, 11:00 AM   #28
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I like these but I'm concerned about water. I heard of one guy here that has a vented hood shorting something during a wash. Does the manufacturer say anything about that?
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