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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 08-03-2018, 03:08 PM   #365
CSG Mike
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nico_rsx View Post
Will the rotor or pad look different once they get hot enough?
Like darker rotor or pad change color?

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The pad surface will look different. Hard to describe... smoother/flatter/shinier but not melted and re-solidified. No streaks or grooves.
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:51 AM   #366
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
XR2 dust is corrosive.
Oh, good to know.
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:03 PM   #367
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Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): Hawk R compound/OEM
Caliper (F/R): OEM/OEM
Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): OEM/OEM
Compound (F/R):
Tires: Michelin PS
Motul 600

Feedback:
good bite, low fading.
get a lot of pulsing after 4 sessions of 30 min., probably not well done bed in process. I sandblast rotor, only worked for 1 additional track day, finally buying all new and restarting from scratch.

Got new rotors F&R. (Centric Blanks) and DBA pads (XP 735 / XP650) I will report after first track day.

Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 5
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 7
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 7
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 7
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 3 track days
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? (Y/N) N
Brake ducts: (Y/N) N
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:53 PM   #368
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Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): Stoptech

Compound : Street Performance

Caliper : OEM

Rotor Size : OEM

Tires: Michelin PSS - 245R17

Fluid: ATE Typ200

Feedback:

Closest thing to a double duty pad.

I go 20-minute sessions between cooldowns with no fade, on a variety of tracks. Locks up the fat tires all day, cold or hot. Daily driver, summer and winter.

I installed the fronts when finishing the OEMs at 80K. It lasted 90K.
I installed the rears at 110K. I'm at 180K and going.

Scores:

Dusting (1=high-10=low): 9

Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 9

Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 7

Modulation (1=low-10=high): 7

Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 8. Noisy squeal at very low speed: breaking while rolling down a driveway at 1kmh

Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 10. 4-8 track days + 2 year of DD

Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? (Y/N) N

Brake ducts: (Y/N) N

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Old 09-07-2018, 09:33 PM   #369
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Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): Power Stop (PowerStop)
Caliper (F/R): Stock
Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): OEM
Compound (F/R): Track Day (Trackday) PSA-1124/PSA-1539 and PST-1124/PST-1539
Tires: GT Radial SX2 (TW260)

Feedback:

Please note there are two types of Power Stop Trackday pads. I recommend the PSA-1124/PSA-1539 (Track Day SPEC). The PST-1124/PST-1539 (Track Day or Trackday) is a lower temp pad, but since it's about the same price as the PSA, get the PSA. I was able to melt the PST front pads at Laguna Seca with SX2 and stock power.

I've used these for about 25 trackdays.

Overall they work pretty well; very economical at ~$80/axle from rockauto.com. Cold bite and modulation is very close to OEM. Hot bite is better than OEM, but not as good as the better race pads. I have not been able to melt them on Northern California tracks, including one >100F day at Buttonwillow. The stock rotor is developing heat cracks, but only a tiny edge of the outer pads are starting to crumble (<1mm). On the street there is almost no squealing (even after the tranfer layer has worn off). I'm seeing about 1mm of front pad wear per track day (1.5 hours). I'm running without front dust sheilds and with GT3 control arm ducts. Rotor wear is minimal.

PSA Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 6
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 7
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 8
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 9 (even when not bedded in)
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 4 (last about 6-8 trackdays)
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? No. No problems w/ black painted wheels.
Brake ducts: Sort of on the front; using GT3 ducts attached to lower suspension arms with dust shields removed.

PST Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 6
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 5
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 8
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 9 (even when not bedded in)
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 4 (last about 6-8 trackdays)
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? No. No problems w/ black painted wheels.
Brake ducts: Sort of on the front; using GT3 ducts attached to lower suspension arms with dust shields removed.
NOTE: I melted the PST at Laguna Seca w/ SX2's.
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Last edited by treedodger; 12-21-2019 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Added info on PSA compound
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:43 PM   #370
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Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): Carbotech F&R
Caliper (F/R): AP Sprint BBK
Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): Whatever that kit comes with ;-) Front, OE rear
Compound (F/R): XP12 F&R
Tires: Hankook TD (TW80, model is 221 iirc. Tire compound is C30 or "hard")

Feedback:
This is the first set of Carbotech pads I didn't hate. ( Prior experience was with xp8 & xp9 on an ITA prepped Honda CRX). These had some initial bite, but felt like "half" of what I remember when running Hawk Blues on that CRX or HT-12s on an E46 M3. Modulation was fine, maybe even very good. I just bought another set of xp12 for the fronts be caused they matched the rears which have a lot of remaining pad. If that initial bite were any less, I'd be looking for some other compound F&R right now. Thankfully, these were ok and I can save a couple hundred by not buying new for both front and rear (in Oct at WGI).

Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 3
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 8
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 2 street, 8 hot/track
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 5? (Probably 12hrs of track time estimated useful life + a bunch of street use... mostly to and from track )
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? No. Definitely not
Brake ducts: No

I'd certainly welcome suggestions for a track pad which might feel like I'm dropping a boat anchor for initial bite. Even better if that recommendation included a second, street friendly pad suitable for swapping after track to then be used for autocross (STX) without needing to change rotors.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:51 PM   #371
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Plenty of BRZ guys around here run DTC-60s on the track and HPS on the street. There seems to be some disdain for Hawk on this forum, but seeing plenty of people happy with that combo around here makes me feel like there is no need to change anything.
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Old 09-27-2018, 08:30 PM   #372
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Plenty of BRZ guys around here run DTC-60s on the track and HPS on the street. There seems to be some disdain for Hawk on this forum, but seeing plenty of people happy with that combo around here makes me feel like there is no need to change anything.
Thx! Can you compare the feel of the DTC60 to any other compound? I know Hawk Black, Blue, HT 10, & HT12, EBC Yellow (ick), and Carbotech 8 & 9. Thankfully all those had decent feel/modulation for me at temp. It's that awesome, smack of initial bite I (obviously) miss.
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:56 PM   #373
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I've driven several other compounds on the BRZ and like the DTC-60s the best on track. I don't remember enough or have enough experience with other compounds to give you specifics, unfortunately.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:19 PM   #374
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Update on Rotors F&R (Centric Blanks) and DBA pads (Front: XP 735 / Rear XP650)

Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): DBA XP735/ DBA XP650 (around $200 both front and rear).
Caliper (F/R): Centric Blanks/Centric Blanks (120.47021 / 121.47031). Amazon 35 each F /$30 each R.
Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): OEM/OEM
Compound (F/R): Cast std blanks rotor.
Tires: Michelin PS 225/45/17
Motul 600. Not happy here (not horrible but pedal feeling not totally as expected. OEM fluid horrible), moving to Motul 660.

Feedback:
I am abusing brake system. NA engine.
Does not seem a lot of initial bite (not good cold bite), however stopping power is good, under severe use stopping power holding. No fading. 95 F Texas weather.
I make right bed in, so no problem with pulsing.
Cheaper pads that Hawk DTC 30.

I did 6 track day (typical 4 session of 30 minutes), seems good for another 2 days. Rotor shows initial little cracking.

Now I will try Stoptech Track days Pads, Front one cost me $80.

Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 8
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 4
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 7
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 7
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 10
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 6 track days still seems good for another 2.
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? (Y/N) N
Brake ducts: (Y/N) YES, plastic Porche GT3 ducts ($16 each eBay)
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:24 AM   #375
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Originally Posted by Surok View Post
i know its old but those pads are toasted, why would they look like that?
Reply to an old question from an even older post.

I have no idea. Burning (flames?), or chipping of some sort. I have a spent quite a bit of time on the track over 20+ years and do brake quite hard. People watching from the front strait braking zone said that my rotors were visibly glowing (this was during the day). The pads I was using are sintered (mostly metallic particles fused together under high pressure), so I think they are more prone to chipping like this.

The post you quoted was about the last time I went to the track due to financial difficulties. I am now in a better position and will hopefully be going back to the track soon. The FR-S has MUCH better braking than the E36 M3 that I had previously, probably due the the very low center of gravity and light weight. I am looking into a better braking solution. I do have a limited budget but I am also looking into something that will keep me in my seat better. The braking and cornering forces are so high that I really had troubles, and the stock seatbelt would not stay locked as I could do in my BMW.
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Old 03-30-2019, 04:53 PM   #376
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I have been running the Ferodo DS2500 as my track and street pad. Last year I changed to the RE-71R tires from the PSS for the track. What I noticed during my sessions with the RE-71R was that my brakes were fading some where I didn't seem to have the problem with the PSS. I am attributing this to being able to corner a little harder that leads to me braking later and harder (or maybe just poor driving).



What would be a step up for a pad to run on the track and on the street?. The BRZ is not a daily driver and I put 4000 to 5000 miles per year on the car. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 03-30-2019, 05:57 PM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey10s View Post
I have been running the Ferodo DS2500 as my track and street pad. Last year I changed to the RE-71R tires from the PSS for the track. What I noticed during my sessions with the RE-71R was that my brakes were fading some where I didn't seem to have the problem with the PSS. I am attributing this to being able to corner a little harder that leads to me braking later and harder (or maybe just poor driving).



What would be a step up for a pad to run on the track and on the street?. The BRZ is not a daily driver and I put 4000 to 5000 miles per year on the car. Thanks in advance for any advice.
The Ferodo DS1.11 are a little louder but won't fade at the track. I dailied a set all last year and am regretting trying the DSUNO (they're louder on the street, don't quite have the bite of the DS1.11 but might be lasting longer).
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:38 AM   #378
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I have a HPDE event coming up, Id like to come correct so ill be putting in XP10 front pads and getting appropriate fluid before hand.
Some on this forum have talked about importance of proper bedding for improved drivability.
Should I do front rotors while im in there doing pads? its only $180 more for T2 slotted fronts. that help bed in to mate new pads w new rotors? or dont bother with rotors?
thoughts? tips/tricks for my upcoming tasks?
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