AP Racing brake systems in development

[jonnyozero3]

Originally Posted by JRitt

Hi Guys,
For the track, I always recommend swapping to full race pads. I

As Dezoris points out above, when running any type of aggressive pad cold, it's always going to be scraping the pad material off of the disc, and exposing the bare metal. That leads to noise every time. Have you guys seen the video I put together on how to swap between different types of pads? It explains a lot of what is going on in the discussion above. Take a look and it should be easier to understand vs. me writing a novel about it. :happy0180:
I don't think so...email me here or call us at 704-824-6030 please. Thanks!

Thanks Jeff - I just resent my email.

Yeah, I figured this is what was going on...especially since the rotor has clearly gone from the nice blue-grey color to a shiny silver again.

For anyone reading this, don't take my thoughts as a negative toward the kit...it just shows you have to choose your pad appropriately. I thought I could get away with dual use, but with cold weather it got noisy...probably a common mistake.

The AP kit itself is excellent.

Edit - thanks for the followup, Jeff.

[SeeSharkySwim]

oh jeez these look tempting!

[jflogerzi]

Yikes 2600$ for brakes! They do look sweet!

[ICantAffordAnLFA]

Originally Posted by JRitt

On the Endurance kit, you can run the taller 50mm radial depth pads:
Ferodo DS2500 FRP3116H

Thanks

Is there only one FRP3116h pad that is the tall spec you refer to?

I'll be buying in the uk and only one pad comes up for that product number.

Sorry if his is a massively stupid question

[MSTiFK8R]

Originally Posted by Paragon

I have run ds2500 in a few cars before and they have always been completely silent. Why are they all of a sudden so noisy on these calipers and is there anything that can be done to quiten them down?

Same story, bro

I've used DS2500 before on my STI and they've been silent as a dead cow

on this kit they are squealy for some reason... they made a high-pitch noise whenever you start thinking of braking with ANY pressure put on the pedal

first 100 miles of shy city driving were completely silent, but then I've broken them as advised to smoke and the SQUEAL came in

I've checked the surface of them and it was mirror-like - maybe they've been cooked wrong and glazed, so that caused the noise

Then I've sandpapered the working surface of the pads to make the mirror go away and then re-broken them in, making 15 times of constant 60mph-5mph braking with ~50% force, enjoying a heavy smoke )))

now I may say the squeal is still there, but is manageable with the force you put braking, so I face it only 1 of 10 times as before

my advice is BAKE THEM and live with it )

You could forgive these brakes everything for the confidence and force they give you!

[ICantAffordAnLFA]

Fuck me

I'll stick with the ds UNO and 1.11 set up I have.

OK , they squeal like an extra in Deliverance, but they sure stop well.

[D1cker]

Originally Posted by MSTiFK8R

Same story, bro

I've used DS2500 before on my STI and they've been silent as a dead cow

on this kit they are squealy for some reason... they made a high-pitch noise whenever you start thinking of braking with ANY pressure put on the pedal

first 100 miles of shy city driving were completely silent, but then I've broken them as advised to smoke and the SQUEAL came in

I've checked the surface of them and it was mirror-like - maybe they've been cooked wrong and glazed, so that caused the noise

Then I've sandpapered the working surface of the pads to make the mirror go away and then re-broken them in, making 15 times of constant 60mph-5mph braking with ~50% force, enjoying a heavy smoke )))

now I may say the squeal is still there, but is manageable with the force you put braking, so I face it only 1 of 10 times as before

my advice is BAKE THEM and live with it )

You could forgive these brakes everything for the confidence and force they give you!

Yeah I'm having the exact issue with the ds2500's. oh well!!

[CSG Mike]

We got our Carbotech XP12 to bed in... but it wasn't easy. In fact, we couldn't do it on track at all. The system is so efficient that we couldn't get the pads hot enough.

[JRitt]

Hi Guys,
I hope summer is off to a good start for you all. I wanted to let you know that we've done some updates to our Endurance Competition Brake Kit, and we've modified the listings for both the Sprint and Endurance Kits on our website.

Endurance kit hardware modifications
One thing we always try to do is listen to our customers. They're the ones actually using the products, so their input from real-world use is extremely valuable to us. We use this info in a constant effort to remain a leader in the marketplace.

Several of our Endurance Kit customers had some concerns about the rattling noises our fully floating discs make at low speeds. While noise is typically not an issue on the track, we realize that any noise coming from the car at low speeds in the paddock can be distracting to the driver, or cause concern for course stewards, workers, officials, etc. We definitely don't want anyone getting 'black flagged' for something that isn't even a real issue.

At the same time, we revisited the hardware with an eye towards any further improvements we could make in the overall kit performance. We decided to use the opportunity to further enhance our system's resistance to pad knockback. As a result, we've designed and produced some small anti-knockback (AKB) spring clips that fit on the Endurance discs. These clips attach to every other attachment point of the disc, and work in conjunction with the AKB springs in the caliper to mitigate pad knockback (we are using a similar setup in pro racing currently, including NASCAR Sprint Cup). The spring clips place additional tension between the hat and disc, and help keep them in alignment. You can think of it as resisting deflection and keeping the disc 'running true' on it's intended pathway through the caliper. The tension of the clips is not high enough however, to impede the disc from growing radially (larger in diameter) when it is heated.

Essentially, with our Endurance Kit you now get all of the benefits of the larger floating disc, an additional buffer against pad knockback, and the elimination of noises/rattling. It's a win all around, and all Endurance Kits will ship with the new hardware moving forward.

If you are an existing customer and would like to upgrade the hardware on your Endurance Kit, please email me and we'll get you squared away. Nothing is changing with the Sprint Kit however.

Below are some pics of the new Endurance hardware setup. Again, everything on the Sprint kit remains the same as it always has been.







Website modifications to clarify and make purchases easier
A while back I posted that we had changed our policy about pads being included in our Essex Designed Competition Kits. Due to the personal nature of race pad selection, we moved away from supplying pads as part of these kits, and instead offer our customers a wide choice of pads at a very low flat rate of $25 for one set with the purchase of a kit. We've now implemented that structure into our website in the form of a product bundle. It's now very easy to see and purchase the various pad options for our Competition Kits. Hopefully this will eliminate confusion and improve our customer experience while researching and purchasing the product. You can see the new structure in the links below:

Sprint

Endurance

I think that's it for now. Thanks to all of you who have bought our various kits. We hope they are living up to your expectations (and making you faster this summer).:happy0180:

[ICantAffordAnLFA]

I'll be having some please.

What are the plans for a rear brake set-up?

[ICantAffordAnLFA]

I spent a day at one of the UK's best circuits, Donington Park, yesterday in the Brz.

Hot day, 28 degrees C and my first track outing with the Endurance kit (although I have much trackday form)

I'm running DS UNO and DS 1.11 pads

Love the stopping performance of the kit and absolutely no fade, despite use all day, so for trackday use it is very good. Absolute confidence every time which is what I need. Brilliant.

However, still very noisy on track despite reaching what I think are pretty high temps.

I don't do many road miles in the car; only to and from circuits or the workshop, but the car squeals very badly on this set up.

Think I am going to have to switch out pads for trackdays and road use.

I have some hawk hps on the way for road use.

Overall a thumbs up for me but I need to experiment a bit to get a good balance for road and track use.

Nordschliefe in 3 weeks.

[JRitt]

Originally Posted by ICantAffordAnLFA

Nordschliefe in 3 weeks.

We definitely need video of that!

[ja1217]

I have a couple questions regarding changing the pads on the Sprint system.

#1 Is it still okay to use these pads?

They are DS-Uno's. I have 4 track days on these pads and when I went to swap them out to put in some pads for the street, I noticed that the side of the one pad seemed to be corroding. I didn't notice any issues with them on the track though.

#2. What exactly are the directions for swapping pads?

All I've done is just remote the pad retainer bar and try to slide them out and slide the new ones in. However, this can be rather difficult and I have had to depress the calipers with my fingers to try and get pads in. Am I missing a step that will make this easier? I haven't been able to find any instructions for swapping pads for this system. I feel like the reason the one pad in the photo may have corroded on just that side might be because it got damaged while I installed them.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by ja1217

I have a couple questions regarding changing the pads on the Sprint system.

#1 Is it still okay to use these pads?

They are DS-Uno's. I have 4 track days on these pads and when I went to swap them out to put in some pads for the street, I noticed that the side of the one pad seemed to be corroding. I didn't notice any issues with them on the track though.

#2. What exactly are the directions for swapping pads?

All I've done is just remote the pad retainer bar and try to slide them out and slide the new ones in. However, this can be rather difficult and I have had to depress the calipers with my fingers to try and get pads in. Am I missing a step that will make this easier? I haven't been able to find any instructions for swapping pads for this system. I feel like the reason the one pad in the photo may have corroded on just that side might be because it got damaged while I installed them.

I have similar crumbling on all but my CL pads (and they have a bit of damage on the edges but not as much as the other pads). I think the j-hooks beat up the edges a bit. I've continued to use said pads without issue.