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Old 08-31-2013, 08:09 PM   #15
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I would guess that your tuner doesn't have the settings correct for the injectors then. What is your AFR at idle? How do your short term fuel trims look at idle? Did you make sure the injectors are seated well and there are no leaks? Did you use the same fuel rail spacers as the Full Blown 550cc injectors?
Afr at idle is 14.7
Short trims are between -3 to 3 at idle

Took them off 4 times and yes they are.

I use the one they supplied but it was the same size as my 550cc


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Old 08-31-2013, 08:11 PM   #16
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Well if your AFR and short term fuel trims are that perfect then I don't see any reason why the car wouldn't be running right unless you broke something in the process causing that check engine light. I have no idea what that code you posted is for. Have you tried clearing it and does it come right back?
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:49 PM   #17
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Well if your AFR and short term fuel trims are that perfect then I don't see any reason why the car wouldn't be running right unless you broke something in the process causing that check engine light. I have no idea what that code you posted is for. Have you tried clearing it and does it come right back?
Codes are not coming back

Just a flashing CEL at idle but hasnt been doing it now but it starts up good and i tried again and it wont start

Also car shut off at a traffic light and took over 30 cranks to finally fire up


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Old 08-31-2013, 08:52 PM   #18
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Will fuel pump have any play on this?


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Old 08-31-2013, 09:24 PM   #19
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In my non professional tuning opinion you can't go from 550cc to 1000cc without changing any tuning. They are probably dumping more fuel obviously. 30 cranks sounds like it floaded the cylinders



For example I had visconti tune on stock injectors. I installed 550cc injectors on dynosty's parking lot BEFORE tune I repeat before their tune car would barely idle.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:30 PM   #20
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In my non professional tuning opinion you can't go from 550cc to 1000cc without changing any tuning. They are probably dumping more fuel obviously. 30 cranks sounds like it floaded the cylinders



For example I had visconti tune on stock injectors. I installed 550cc injectors on dynosty's parking lot BEFORE tune I repeat before their tune car would barely idle.
Tune is set up to 1000cc


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Old 08-31-2013, 09:34 PM   #21
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Starts fine
But idle dip
It takes about 10-12 seconds to stop

Starts fine for like 2 times

After that rough start like gotta crank it up 2-4 times for it to fire up.

Driving wise
Feels like lag lol
But at WOT its reach which is OK


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Old 09-03-2013, 01:02 PM   #22
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flashing cel is usually always misfire related
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:31 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitefrs View Post
Starts fine
But idle dip
It takes about 10-12 seconds to stop

Starts fine for like 2 times

After that rough start like gotta crank it up 2-4 times for it to fire up.

Driving wise
Feels like lag lol
But at WOT its reach which is OK
Did you figure it out yet?
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:36 PM   #24
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Did you figure it out yet?
Im on e85 now

Cel flashes when cranking up but when on it goes off

Its been ok but lets see


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Old 09-04-2013, 03:54 PM   #25
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just a heads up for anyone else doing this. i put my new injectors in and had all sorts of issues. then the car wouldn't start at all. after ptuning talked for a bit with ecutek thinking something went wrong with the flash, we got to thinking. i zip tied the direct injection computer to the strut brace so i could check the new injectors for leaks at startup. turns out that ecu grounds itself through its mounting bracket, not a ground in the harness itself. grounded that unit out and all was well. hopefully this saves someone some headache if they try to keep that ecu out of the way to inspect on first start up
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:18 PM   #26
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On a returnless fuel system does the air have to be bled out of the lines after installing new port injectors? If so, is there a recommended procedure?

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Old 09-28-2013, 01:48 PM   #27
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On a returnless fuel system does the air have to be bled out of the lines after installing new port injectors? If so, is there a recommended procedure?

Aaron
Not needed. All air will go out once it starts cranking.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:56 PM   #28
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Port Injectors DIY....no pics, sorry.

The driver's side is the easier side to do given you have the appropriate tool (fuel line disconnect tool COP 545) to remove the fuel lines.

Take off the black metal panel once you get the lines disconnected and moved out of the way.

I would suggest that you order some Subaru/Toyota injector gaskets and O-rings. The FIC injectors come with both gaskets and O-rings. I still replaced the gaskets with OEM gaskets but left the FIC O-rings intact.

As you pull the injectors out and disconnect their harnesses, make sure you have a pic on hand to pull out the gaskets from the old injectors. A few of mine did not come out with the injectors so I used the pic to get them out.

Then you basically put everything back in reverse order. If you're using FIC injectors, there's no spacer needed and everything fits in snugly. Make sure you clip your plug-n-play harnesses on to plug into the factory plugs.

On the passenger side things are a bit tricky. The ECU needs to come off the bracket and there is one pesky 10mm under the ECU that's a PITA to unbolt. However, once you get that guy out everything else is cake as there are no fuel lines that need to be removed on the passenger side.

Once again, reassemble everything in reverse order.

Start er up, once you have a tune calibration for the larger injectors and check for any fuel leaks. If you use new gaskets and your injectors come with new O-rings you won't have any leaks.

Make certain that as you're tightening the fuel rail that you're not over tightening it. You will know if you over tighten because the top gasket of the injectors will begin to distort. You then need to pull the fuel rail back off, align the injectors and start again. Also, if the gaskets distort, be sure that you removed any old gasket that may not have come out with the old injectors.

Also have a magnetic pickup tool on standby for any bolts that are sure to fall.

All-in-all it's roughly an hour install with the correct tools. Once you do it once that time is cut in half, but hopefully you won't need to do it again.
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