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Old 12-18-2018, 10:54 AM   #99
Axis2011KR
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@Ashikabi wanted to mention this since I saw an issue in @spitsnaugle build and looks like you may run into the same problem with the way your spark plug wires are currently routed.

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aaaannd this didnt take long....



I was hoping (since I already had these plug wires) that with ceramic coating the headers, and DEI insulation sleeves, they'd be ok... but after an hour's drive to work, two are toast.
This was his solution that worked

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I routed the cylinders two and four under the headers up the front of the engine and to the coils. Did this with some MSD 32073 cut-to-length LS wires.
Tough to tell without seeing how all yours were routed but figured I'd mention it to save you some heartache in the future if they were routed the same as his first attempt.
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:00 AM   #100
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@Ashikabi wanted to mention this since I saw an issue in @spitsnaugle build and looks like you may run into the same problem with the way your spark plug wires are currently routed.







This was his solution that worked







Tough to tell without seeing how all yours were routed but figured I'd mention it to save you some heartache in the future if they were routed the same as his first attempt.
Thanks for looking out. I did see that and made super short wires to (hopefully) work around it. None of them are particularly close now that I'm using the JBA GTO shorty headers. They aren't wound near as tight as the CX headers were. They also clear my AC nicely, unlike the CX headers
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:43 PM   #101
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Got out into the garage again. Gonna work on mounting the transmission again even though I'll gave to take it back out anyways. I was trying to avoid this but it's better than nothing.

Anyways, I installed the Cusco differential brace and changed the fittings on my Racer X dual catch can to work with the LS1.

I got most of the way done with installing Whiteline subframe bushing inserts. Last subframe mount bolt said"fuck you" and cross threaded. I ordered a tap to clean up the threads in the frame, should be finished next weekend.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:17 PM   #102
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G

I got most of the way done with installing Whiteline subframe bushing inserts. Last subframe mount bolt said"fuck you" and cross threaded. I ordered a tap to clean up the threads in the frame, should be finished next weekend.


This happened to me to on the front passenger bolt. The tap worked like a charm. Good luck looking good!
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:48 PM   #103
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This happened to me to on the front passenger bolt. The tap worked like a charm. Good luck looking good!
Thanks. I still can't get it running but I suppose I can get the transmission mounted. I was trying to avoid putting it in and taking it out needlessly but it's better than doing nothing
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:31 PM   #104
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I started mounting the transmission today. Cut out for the MGW shortshifter. Sprayed everything with underbody spray. Installed speed bleeders and installed the RivNuts for my fuck up fix strut tower to firewall bar. Pretty far from ideal but better than nothing.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:24 PM   #105
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Mounting transmission and drive shaft. Transmission sits tail down at about 4.5 degrees
Driveshaft is tail down at about 2.5 degrees
Diff is nose up (tail down) at 1 degree

This somewhat close to being right? The calculator I was using wasn't 100% clear on which way things were tilted with their sliders
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Old 03-30-2019, 09:44 AM   #106
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Drilling to mount the transmission crossmember now. I cut out the offending transmission tunnel bracing to make room for the transmission. I'm seeing now that doing so was a mistake. My mounts are on the edge of the bracing which will make them sit weird and it's very hard to drill here. I definitely suggest removing the bracing (lower rear at the very least) when cleancing the tunnel. The bracing across the top of the tunnel seems fine but if it was also removed, I would have more room for my drill, since the transmission is in the car and I'm working around it.

The white in the picture is where I scraped off the factory seam sealant to give my mounts a more solid surface to bolt to

UPDATE: remove all bracing. Just do it.

Last edited by Ashikabi; 08-05-2019 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 03-30-2019, 07:06 PM   #107
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Mounted transmission and MGW short shifter
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Old 03-30-2019, 07:55 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
Mounting transmission and drive shaft. Transmission sits tail down at about 4.5 degrees
Driveshaft is tail down at about 2.5 degrees
Diff is nose up (tail down) at 1 degree

This somewhat close to being right? The calculator I was using wasn't 100% clear on which way things were tilted with their sliders
Itís gonna be what itís gonna be but ideally, you want them to be parallel and cancel each other out.
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:56 PM   #109
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Notes on the MGW shifter: it moves the shift knob forward about an inch/ inch and a half... The TR6060 seems to move the shifter back about the same. As such I think this combination puts the shift knob almost exactly where it was with the FA20. I did have to cut about 1/2-3/4 inches off the rear of the shifter hole. If you want to use the rubber boot that comes with it I suggest cutting the sides of the shifter hole back about 1/4 inch PER SIDE. I didn't do this and the boot sits kinda bulgy and it was a pain to get installed to begin with. Otherwise, I'm very happy with this shifter. Feels good. Nice short crisp movements. FYI, if you need the pin that attaches the shift lever to the arm on the transmission, you'll need a 12mm clevis pin with just over an inch throat. Measure your arm to be sure on length
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:17 PM   #110
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Got most of my interior back in. Shifter ended up being pretty close to identical for stock position. The switch to activate my Accusump had to be modified to clear the shifter bezel. Cut off the tip of the cover and added a side pin to flip open.

Driver valve cover interfered with my master cylinder. If you are using an LS1 I suggest you try to use some other method of mounting the master cylinder. Whether that involves making a pocket like @spitsnaugle did or finding some other method. Anyways, we ground into valve cover until it (barely) cleared the banjo bolt. If course we broke through so I added some JB weld to seal it up. I'm not happy with how this worked out but I don't really have any practical ideas to change it.

Got my radiator shroud done too. I've spent WAY too much money on this so I went cheap... Got a big cookie sheet on eBay and cut it up LOL. Cheapest you'll find large pieces of aluminum sheet. Hammered the bends in it, rattle can, some foam weather strip insulation on the edges and self tappers to hold it on the radiator flange
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Old 04-02-2019, 09:59 PM   #111
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Driver valve cover interfered with my master cylinder. If you are using an LS1 I suggest you try to use some other method of mounting the master cylinder. Whether that involves making a pocket like @spitsnaugle did or finding some other method. Anyways, we ground into valve cover until it (barely) cleared the banjo bolt. If course we broke through so I added some JB weld to seal it up. I'm not happy with how this worked out but I don't really have any practical ideas to change it.
I have 10 of those recess pockets laying around from a batch I had made, designed for a Tilton 75 if you're interested.
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:25 PM   #112
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I have 10 of those recess pockets laying around from a batch I had made, designed for a Tilton 75 if you're interested.
I'll see how this works first. I REALLY don't want to have to take out my motor and cut a hole in my fire wall. Might not have a choice though. I'll see when I have oil running down the back of my motor I suppose. I'm thinking your pocket with the Tilton 75, the Wilwood equivalent, or a combination of your pocket and my Element Tuning bracket would be best for LS1 and 6 users where as the Element bracket alone "should" be fine for all other LS variants.

I have concerns about the angle of your master cylinder. I'd like to steer away from that if possible, no offense intended and I could be wrong. I believe (haven't checked for certain) that my master cylinder sits at a slight angle whereas IIRC yours sits perpendicular to the firewall. Though I suppose if you carefully located it vertically to bisect the vertical travel of actuation rod you would pretty well negate any negative effects
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