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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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12-13-2018, 03:04 PM | #15 |
He's got this.
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Make a list of the things you think you want, pricing everything out, and start setting aside money towards that amount every month for 6-12 months depending on how much you are gonna spend. Then at the end of that time period if you still want to make all those changes, you can have at it. If not you got a nice chunk of change to put into other things/invest.
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12-13-2018, 03:33 PM | #16 |
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Drive the car for awhile after break-in and see what bugs you. For me the sound system needed an improvement right away and that was something I knew no amount of break-in would fix. But for anything suspension or power related I would say wait about. Especially with power modification as you risk having powertrain warranty work denied on a brand new car.
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12-13-2018, 03:58 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
OH and asking "what are the best coilovers/turbo/headers/etc does not count as determining what meets your needs..
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12-13-2018, 04:21 PM | #18 |
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I think it might be premature for performance mods (F/I, upgraded brakes, coilovers, etc.), but I heartily-endorse mods that improve the "feel" of the driving experience (which is really what this car is really about anyways).
Highly-recommend: -TRD Quick-shifter and MTEC Shift springs (and maybe a weighted shiftknob). A complete mechanical noob/klutz like me managed to install both as DIY projects. Makes the stock shifter feel floppy in comparison (much more direct and positive feedback, although you will also need a bit more shift effort). A solid shiftknob gets rid of the cheap/rickety/rattly nature of stock knob. -Lightweight pulley: some people think it's useless, but I felt the car was noticeably more responsive with the lightweight pulley (when I reverted to stock, it was noticeably worse); again a very easy DIY project -Cusco gas pedal (if you are trying to learn heel-and-toe with the car): Another easy install (albeit pricey for what you get), but you'll learn a useful skill - you can remove it afterwards (think of them like training wheels for heel-toe) -FREE mod: adjust the clutch point Highly do not recommend: -Injen SP short ram: Causes idling/bogging issues, and occasionally would stall the engine even while the car was moving (although it did make the car sound far better) -GReddy SP Elite axle-back: Minimal change in sound for mucho dinero |
12-13-2018, 04:21 PM | #19 |
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It's never too early to ruin your car.
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12-13-2018, 04:41 PM | #20 |
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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12-13-2018, 04:41 PM | #21 |
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As others have said, these cars are great fun even bone stock. Drive it for a while then do what you feel like. Everyone will have a different approach and interests in modifications. The good thing is you bought a fantastic platform that can excel in many different ways.
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12-13-2018, 04:43 PM | #22 |
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Master cylinder brace should be everyone’s first mod.
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12-13-2018, 04:50 PM | #23 |
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Better tires (and wheels, if you can afford to get both) should be the first mod(s).
I started adding parts ( and removing parts) on Day One. I have had my car 6.5 years, and still no Power mods. I don't need them. Spent a bunch on wheels, tires, suspension, interior, stereo, and lighting though.
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12-13-2018, 04:53 PM | #24 |
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Actually I did the rear seat delete the second weekend I had the car (took a week to ship). It has never had more than 2 people in it, as it should be.
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12-13-2018, 05:01 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
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12-13-2018, 05:09 PM | #27 |
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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12-13-2018, 05:15 PM | #28 |
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I made it 8 months stock[aside from a different weighted clutch pedal spring] before I added a catback exhaust. For me the car is pretty much perfect out of the box for street use except for the the noise coming out the tailpipe.
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