Lug Nuts

[Evan55]

Ive been using these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


My requirements were: closed end, steel, no key or splines, longer for easier changes, real brand name, and reasonably priced



They have been fine through a few wheel changes so far. Havent used them on track yet.

[CrowsFeast]

Originally Posted by Locust

I just sucked it up and went with 2-piece titanium Project KICS so I'd never have to think about lug nuts again. Not all of their stuff is as crazy expensive as the titanium ones but I like the 2-piece design because you don't scratch the shit out of your wheels and if the tip ever seizes to the wheel you can probably still get the rest of the lug nut off without snapping a stud. It's rare as hell but I've seized a Muteki SR48 onto a wheel face before because it got some water behind it during a rain event and it was not a fun experience getting it off...

Heads up based on a single anecdotal story; I met someone who ran Titanium nuts on a Honda once at the track. After each run they seemed to come a bit loose so he kept re-torquing them. End of the day after everything cooled off they were so tight he couldn't get them off again. Had to drive home on the track wheels and get them cut off.

I've never had them myself and barely knew the guy so for all I know I could be helping to spread false information but I'd say it's worth keeping an eye on.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CrowsFeast

Heads up based on a single anecdotal story; I met someone who ran Titanium nuts on a Honda once at the track. After each run they seemed to come a bit loose so he kept re-torquing them. End of the day after everything cooled off they were so tight he couldn't get them off again. Had to drive home on the track wheels and get them cut off.

I've never had them myself and barely knew the guy so for all I know I could be helping to spread false information but I'd say it's worth keeping an eye on.

One of the things they kept saying at my first HPDE event was "DO NOT re-torque the lugs when the wheels are hot".

[bellwilliam]

that sounds weird. we always re-torque every session, sometime during a race (enduro), never an issue.


We also always use aluminum lug nuts, never steel, never titanium. you don't want lug nuts to be stronger than your wheel studs.. lug nuts is easy to swap out during a race if you ever cross thread. steel studs not so much.

[bmxr]

Removing and reinstalling the wheels while hot was stripping the low quality studs and lugs on my WRX (same parts as the BRZ) so when I got my BRZ, I went straight to ARP studs. I tried the generic open steel studs from Amazon and Summit Racing, but I noticed the seats were getting visibly deformed over time. Then I got the steel Mutekis and all has been well for a pretty heavy season of driving.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by bellwilliam

that sounds weird. we always re-torque every session, sometime during a race (enduro), never an issue.

See a somewhat popular opinion, use your judgement:

Originally Posted by i8ur911

The hotter the component, the more it stretches.

You only want to torque your wheels when they're "cold". I've seen too many people come right off the track and grab their torque wrench to start torquing wheels. Bad news. That's how you weaken components or snap studs.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

With some bias, I think these will be perfect for what you described you wanted.

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/c...ugnuts-m12x125

Do you have any plans to make close-ended lug nuts?
Any recommendations for HPDE-worthy close-ended lug nuts already available on the market?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Do you have any plans to make close-ended lug nuts?
Any recommendations for HPDE-worthy close-ended lug nuts already available on the market?

Open ended is more flexible, particularly for the guys who've already upgraded to ARP studs.

Corrosion isn't an issue; you should be anti-seizing your studs anyways!

If you want closed ended anyways, RAYS and Muteki offer a lot of solid options.

[timurrrr]

Thanks, going to try Muteki 41885C Chrome 12mm x 1.25mm Closed End Spline Drive Lug Nuts then

[MX-5RACER]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Open ended is more flexible, particularly for the guys who've already upgraded to ARP studs.

Corrosion isn't an issue; you should be anti-seizing your studs anyways!

If you want closed ended anyways, RAYS and Muteki offer a lot of solid options.

I have typically used open ended lugs on my track cars as this allows the use of extended studs, but it also gives all the crap/excess anti-seize/shards of threads from when you just send it with the impact gun, a place to exit instead of staying inside the lug and causing an issue later.

[prandelia]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Do you have any plans to make close-ended lug nuts?
Any recommendations for HPDE-worthy close-ended lug nuts already available on the market?

Vorshlag sells high quality race-worthy open studs for the FRS. That's what I've been using. I'm not crazy about the color, but it is what it is.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collectio...nut-for-subaru

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by prandelia

Vorshlag sells high quality race-worthy open studs for the FRS. That's what I've been using. I'm not crazy about the color, but it is what it is.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collectio...nut-for-subaru

Those are open ended!

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by prandelia

Vorshlag sells high quality race-worthy open studs for the FRS. That's what I've been using. I'm not crazy about the color, but it is what it is.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collectio...nut-for-subaru

Mmmmm, functional and excellent value by the look of them.

Thanks for the link.