DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders - Fluid Bleed/Flush - Page 3 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

OrbitalEllipses · 10-30-2012, 03:29 AM

FWIW I had speed bleeders on my WRX. They're nice, but become useless if you use a pressured bleeder like the Motive tool. The tool pressurizes (positive, not vacuum) the brake system and pushes fresh fluid through so all you have to do is crack the bleeders open; they won't ingest air since the circuit's are pressurized. Just another way of doing a one-man brake job that I thought I'd share.

eckoflyte · 01-19-2013, 10:29 PM

Hey mate, what is the part number for the front and rear speed bleeders for this car?

Would appreciate the info as i want to get myself a set.

F1point4 · 01-21-2013, 07:36 AM

SB1010-SS for front and rear.

Fits like a charm.

I am 95% sure this same speed bleeder will work for the clutch too

Amadeus · 01-28-2013, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F1point4

SB1010-SS for front and rear.

There are two lengths offered - 31.35 and 34.44. Which length did you use or does it not matter?

Thank you for all of your great DIY write ups!

I figured it out - it's the longer threaded version with the part # you gave.
I looked at the part numbers closer and the short 31.35 is SB1010S-SS
My eyes skipped the extra "S" and I thought they both had the same #.

Lverasky · 01-28-2013, 05:22 PM

looks great.!

MyRx · 02-02-2013, 01:26 PM

To the OP or anyone else using the speed bleeders, any issues thus far? Does it actually make solo bleeding a breeze. I bring this up b/c my local track enthusiasts shop are adamant that years of trying to work with speed bleeders have failed, just ending up using the OEM bleeders and a 2 man crew. Something about letting air in as it closes.

SS lines are in route and picked a pump that will feed/keep the reservoir under pressure.

MyRx · 02-14-2013, 12:10 PM

Thanks for this write up. It helped. Flare wrench helped since standard wrench rounds the nut if it's on too tight. Thanks for lookout

MrTranxD · 02-14-2013, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyRx

Thanks for this write up. It helped. Flare wrench helped since standard wrench rounds the nut if it's on too tight. Thanks for lookout

rounded every the nut every time i tried using standard wrenches. gave up and used pliers.

MyRx · 02-14-2013, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrTranxD

rounded every the nut every time i tried using standard wrenches. gave up and used pliers.

That's right

. Warning, flare wrench grips - standard wrench rounds. Have PB blaster handy - brake cleaner evaps too fast sometimes.

Alabang 86 · 02-16-2013, 06:23 PM

Nice write up.

Spent a few hours at the track last week with my stock 86. Got settled, then into an aggressive groove. I found the brake feel /performance the most noticeable "low performance" part of the ride.

The SS lines is a great idea, mine are on order.

superpilun · 02-19-2013, 08:29 PM

When I first purchased speed bleeders about a decade ago, they warned not to over-tighten them because they are hollow and could break. Having half a bleeder stuck in the caliper would suck.

Also, I'm wondering where the warning to not pump the brake pedal all the way for fear of rupturing the master cylinder comes from. Any source for this?

wheelhaus · 02-20-2013, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superpilun

When I first purchased speed bleeders about a decade ago, they warned not to over-tighten them because they are hollow and could break. Having half a bleeder stuck in the caliper would suck.

Also, I'm wondering where the warning to not pump the brake pedal all the way for fear of rupturing the master cylinder comes from. Any source for this?

It's a valid concern, but I'm not sure if it applies to this car. Typically, the brake pedal mechanism/levers/vacuum booster pushes a rod into the back of the master cylinder. So it's possible it may get damaged, but I'd only think it's possible if the rod is smaehed really hard into the MC. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it.

THEmailman · 04-22-2013, 04:22 PM

Thank you for this! Did a line swap last weekend and followed this. Made everything easy and simple. Definitely agree that a flare wrench is the way to go, almost stripped the nut for the hard line/flexible line connection.

CamryDS · 04-22-2013, 05:19 PM

question about "air bubbles" Where exactly do we look for this? I understand the brakeline change as well as the bleeding part, but I'm not sure about looking for bubbles while bleeding the brake lines.

Figured I might attempt to do this on my own, once I get my car on a lift.

01-21-2013, 07:36 AM	#31
F1point4 Photo Specialist Join Date: Feb 2012 Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 DGM 6MT Location: Texas Posts: 1,152 Thanks: 587 Thanked 1,802 Times in 420 Posts Mentioned: 94 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	SB1010-SS for front and rear. Fits like a charm. I am 95% sure this same speed bleeder will work for the clutch too __________________ Lola - Toyota 86 6MT Dark Gray Metallic My 86 Flickr Set

01-28-2013, 05:22 PM	#33
Lverasky RedBunny w/ Wing Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: FR-S Location: PDX, OR Posts: 962 Thanks: 346 Thanked 179 Times in 155 Posts Mentioned: 22 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	looks great.! __________________ Firestorm FR-S MT【PDX, OR】I am just driving in normal speed. dont bother

04-22-2013, 04:22 PM	#41
THEmailman Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Drives: Raven 6MT Location: Eastern NC Posts: 113 Thanks: 30 Thanked 14 Times in 10 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Thank you for this! Did a line swap last weekend and followed this. Made everything easy and simple. Definitely agree that a flare wrench is the way to go, almost stripped the nut for the hard line/flexible line connection. __________________ Goodridge SS brake lines//ProjectMu 999's//Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid//GrimmSpeed master cylinder brace//Jackson Racing Oil Cooler//Whiteline camber bolts//Raceseng CamCas plates//Kosei K4R 17x8//BFGoodrich Rivals 225/45

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10-30-2012, 03:29 AM	#29
OrbitalEllipses Banned Join Date: Jan 2012 Drives: Attitude Location: MD Posts: 10,046 Thanks: 884 Thanked 4,889 Times in 2,902 Posts Mentioned: 123 Post(s) Tagged: 4 Thread(s)	FWIW I had speed bleeders on my WRX. They're nice, but become useless if you use a pressured bleeder like the Motive tool. The tool pressurizes (positive, not vacuum) the brake system and pushes fresh fluid through so all you have to do is crack the bleeders open; they won't ingest air since the circuit's are pressurized. Just another way of doing a one-man brake job that I thought I'd share.

01-19-2013, 10:29 PM	#30
eckoflyte Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Toyota 86 GTS Location: Sydney Posts: 246 Thanks: 45 Thanked 47 Times in 33 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Hey mate, what is the part number for the front and rear speed bleeders for this car? Would appreciate the info as i want to get myself a set.

02-02-2013, 01:26 PM	#34
MyRx Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: Flight 86 is now boarding. Location: CA Posts: 1,759 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 1,502 Times in 700 Posts Mentioned: 230 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	To the OP or anyone else using the speed bleeders, any issues thus far? Does it actually make solo bleeding a breeze. I bring this up b/c my local track enthusiasts shop are adamant that years of trying to work with speed bleeders have failed, just ending up using the OEM bleeders and a 2 man crew. Something about letting air in as it closes. SS lines are in route and picked a pump that will feed/keep the reservoir under pressure.

02-14-2013, 12:10 PM	#35
MyRx Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: Flight 86 is now boarding. Location: CA Posts: 1,759 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 1,502 Times in 700 Posts Mentioned: 230 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Thanks for this write up. It helped. Flare wrench helped since standard wrench rounds the nut if it's on too tight. Thanks for lookout

02-19-2013, 08:29 PM	#39
superpilun Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Drives: 1986 MR2 Location: California Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 5 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	When I first purchased speed bleeders about a decade ago, they warned not to over-tighten them because they are hollow and could break. Having half a bleeder stuck in the caliper would suck. Also, I'm wondering where the warning to not pump the brake pedal all the way for fear of rupturing the master cylinder comes from. Any source for this?

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