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Old 07-20-2017, 03:26 PM   #29
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Even I am in same boat as OP.

To everyone asking to run separate pads for track and street, do you change pads every time to want to go to the track. I go to track 3-4 times a year and autocross 5-6 times a year (summer is short here in Canada). I would find it very tedious to keep switching pads.
For track days I change the pads, because I'm usually running a more aggressive compound. For autox, I just run whatever my street pads are. A lot easier to compromise between street/autox than street/track. Changing pads 3-4 times isn't that big of a deal. Pad changes are fairly easy on our cars, and if you do it the night before and a day or two after it's not that bad. It'll also save you money in the long run. Definitely worth it in my opinion.
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:27 PM   #30
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I have been running Hawk DTC and Hawk HP+ on the street for a while now, just drive straight to the autocross event or track day.

however im tired of the squeal and the dust covered my wheel,

going to swap on my oem pad this weekend. and start running a dedicated street and track pad from now.
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:37 PM   #31
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+1 on minimum temp not being a big deal on entry level track pads, I DD'd and autocrossed XP10(R10 comparable) for awhile and cold bite was excellent, I just couldn't deal with the noise as I couldn't keep them bedded in, R6 will be my next street/AutoX pad, but there's no way I'd put them on track, I'll swap back to the XP10 when I go back.
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Old 07-20-2017, 04:17 PM   #32
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It takes 20 minutes to change pads. It's really not a big deal. Once you do it a few times you realize it's a small price to pay for the dramatically improved performance and life.
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Old 07-20-2017, 04:44 PM   #33
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I'm with Pat on pretty much all counts. Ideal is to swap between street and track pads. You'll be optimized in all conditions. If you're feeling lazy, the DS2500 is about as good as I've ever seen for a dual-purpose pad, particularly on an 86. Believe it or not, about a month ago I actually had a C7 Z06 customer with our Essex/AP big brake kit accidentally leave the DS2500's in his calipers and run VIR. He didn't fade them once. They burned up more rapidly than his DS1.11's, but the DS2500's really do have a huge usable range. They are a 'hall of fame' pad in my book, and have been for many years.
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Old 07-20-2017, 05:05 PM   #34
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I'm with Pat on pretty much all counts. Ideal is to swap between street and track pads. You'll be optimized in all conditions. If you're feeling lazy, the DS2500 is about as good as I've ever seen for a dual-purpose pad, particularly on an 86. Believe it or not, about a month ago I actually had a C7 Z06 customer with our Essex/AP big brake kit accidentally leave the DS2500's in his calipers and run VIR. He didn't fade them once. They burned up more rapidly than his DS1.11's, but the DS2500's really do have a huge usable range. They are a 'hall of fame' pad in my book, and have been for many years.
Total agreement on the DS2500, I put them in the fronts on my Brembo's and have done 7 sessions at Watkins, and 4 sessions at Palmer and have not faded at all in any session. Great pad for half/half cars like mine. Some street, some track.
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Old 07-20-2017, 05:47 PM   #35
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@Pat I just realized that I misread the units on Ferodo's chart. It starts fading after 600 C not F. So it definitely has a better curve than the Winmax (can't find a chart for the G-LOC).

Winmax graph: http://winmaxusa.com/wp-content/uplo...COMPARISON.png
Ferodo graph: http://www.ferodoracing.com/products...e-pads/ds2500/

The Ferodo are a bit more expensive than the Winmax, but they are looking like a really good option
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:02 PM   #36
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@RJasonKlein those Project Mu Racing999 are pretty expensive and look like they are rated for 200-800. Seems like they'd eat rotors when cold and fade quicker than the R6 or W3 would.
200C-800C is the *optimal* temperature range. The pads work from -100C to 1200C.

Never forget units

I daily drive on 999 on my S2k, without issue. Will they groove the rotor? Yes; every high performance pad will. Will they chew through the rotor? Nope; they have lubricant.
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:04 PM   #37
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It has the most stable coefficient of friction over a wide temperature range than any streetable pad I am aware of. You are choosing to compromise with all of these. I stand behind my recommendation.
Oh I have some pads for you to check out then...

The pads i run on my BRZ have a 0.02μ variance over the ENTIRE range of 0C to 1200C.
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:06 PM   #38
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OP, dont get too hung up on minimum temperature recommendation for the pads. None of the pads mentioned in this thread are hardcore race pads that need huge amounts of heat.

I daily XP10's which have a range of 250F-1650F and it bites stronger than OEM pads even on 40-45F days.
Absolutely this.
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:06 PM   #39
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You'll be hard pressed to find rotor temps under 74F in the summer in the continental US or southern Canada...




R6 is 1000F, the 999's are 800C (~1500F). The ClubRacer's are also a great pad, and work fine on the street in the summer. I prefer the feel of the ClubRacer's (less compressible) to the R10's, but both have similar heat ranges and are equally capable on the street and track.
You are correct. Carbotech/Gloc pads are compressible, and require a tiny bit more pedal pressure, but that "feature" makes the pad easy for people to transition to a more aggressive pad, especially when they're coming from a "wannabe" race pad like the Stoptech pads.
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:12 PM   #40
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Yeah, its the rotor wear when operating below temp that I'm more concerned about. I don't need maximum braking power when slowing to a stop sign. I've been getting grooves in my rotor with my Hawks. How often do you replace rotors? How many events/months of daily do you get on them?
I have 23k miles on my 17 BRZ. I've changed rotors once, due to heat checking getting a bit too extreme for my taste.

Entry level race pads (Hawk DTC, Carbotech XP10, Gloc R10, Project Mu Club Racer, Winmax W5, etc.), are made to a price point. They are, entry level, after all. As such, they are designed to be as inexpensive as possible while "getting the job done". Getting the job done, in this case, is having an appropriate amount of friction, and heat tolerance.

As you start delving into more premium pads, the increased budget/cost, allows for increased features, such as harmonics (to reduce squeaking/noise), dusting ("less harsh" components), and lubrication (reduces rotor wear).

When you get into the truly nice stuff, you get some interesting properties, such as endothermic ablation (absorbs heat as the pad wears, reducing overall brake system temperatures), superior consistency (no friction variance with heat), smoother release (easy, precise trail and mid-corner braking), and longer life (did I mention I'm on track for 25-30 track days on my current set of pads? My rotors get glowing hot at track days).
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:39 PM   #41
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Winmax W3's have been a great hybrid pad for me. I use them for daily driving, autocross, and HPDE. Combined with Castrol SRF, I've never had any brake fade at all. I had some noise issues at first, but after bedding them in really well and adding shims, they're livable now. Because they're so damn pretty it's tempting to run them without shims, but it's not worth the noise.
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:32 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
You are correct. Carbotech/Gloc pads are compressible, and require a tiny bit more pedal pressure, but that "feature" makes the pad easy for people to transition to a more aggressive pad, especially when they're coming from a "wannabe" race pad like the Stoptech pads.
Is there some way of knowing how compressible a pad is? I feel like the Hawk HP+ are pretty grabby which means they arent very compressible. I've gotten used to that and probably want something similar so I don't think I want something compressible.
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