325 HP w/ Ptuning Turbo Kit & defective JDL header

[COO86L]

Originally Posted by Calum

Any chance you could share a little more info, a web site for the company or a retailer even?

He's an Aussie Tuner in Brisbane QLD. I believe he is on this forum but I don't know how often (and I don't know how to tag people because I'm useless at forums)

Coyote Tuning is the company name. Best way to contact/view stuff is via Facebook. He does a very good job at tuning. Had him tune my car N/A and it was ridiculously good. Moreover he is a wizard with throttle control. He revamps the way the DBW works/reacts and gets a hell of a lot more response out of the car to make it a lot more fun

[cdrazic93]

....plot twist @Captain Snooze is the tuner.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Calum

Any chance you could share a little more info, a web site for the company or a retailer even?

I checked their facebook and its a low mount turbo setup, with an interesting approach to the header. Cast iron.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

I checked their facebook and its a low mount turbo setup, with an interesting approach to the header. Cast iron.

Damn. Also a water to air intercooler. That is an interesting approach. I don't know if I'd call it better, but I'd love to know more.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Calum

Damn. Also a water to air intercooler. That is an interesting approach. I don't know if I'd call it better, but I'd love to know more.

not saving any weight, but I wont thread jack.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

not saving any weight, but I wont thread jack.

INB4 someone says the weight will lower the CoG.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

....plot twist @Captain Snooze is the tuner.

That's news to me.

[Northwest86]

Originally Posted by Calum

Damn. Also a water to air intercooler. That is an interesting approach. I don't know if I'd call it better, but I'd love to know more.

The cast iron helps responsiveness. Is bulletproof(we've thrown them at the ground many times to show their resiliance.) the water to air gives the best throttle response known to man and with custom turbo options they've been finely tuned. With gtx28 turbos these hit full boost by 2500-3000 rpm and with mine running a gtx30 based turbo i hit full boost at 3200 rpm. They're very nice. No cutting of crash beams or removing washer bottles etc.

[Northwest86]

Coo86l ill be down brisbane way in august i hope. Ill send You a message then and see where im at.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Northwest86

The cast iron helps responsiveness. Is bulletproof(we've thrown them at the ground many times to show their resiliance.) the water to air gives the best throttle response known to man and with custom turbo options they've been finely tuned. With gtx28 turbos these hit full boost by 2500-3000 rpm and with mine running a gtx30 based turbo i hit full boost at 3200 rpm. They're very nice. No cutting of crash beams or removing washer bottles etc.

Is that because it holds in more heat? Or something else?

I'd love to see a gtx28 plot with boost curve for this kit. Any chance of that happening?

Is there a site I could use to see what it would cost to get one? My google fu is generally pretty good, but all I can find is facebook pages and redirects to Mustang 5.0 coyote stuff.

[Northwest86]

The heat is a part of it. The other part is the fact that A stainless manifold for most applications is difficult to shape in anything but tubes. (cost effectively) The cast manifold only has to be designed and was refined once to get smoother lines in shapes that are not economical with tubular headers. The other one is Heat transfer. Now Stainless has low Conductivity which makes for hotspots and unequal temps. But since most (not all, I haven't seen a Ptuning manifold but most of the others I've seen including some Premium kits are made of cheesegrade thin stainless) Heat Transfered is a product of mass and thermal conductivity. Cast iron and Steel have somewhat similar values with some cast irons slightly less conductive. Stainless varies massively due to alloy but 316 for example would be about 1/2 as conductive as cast iron. But due to the mass the cast will hold heat better, and generally have less surface area. The thermal expansion is what makes cast so much stronger with cast expanding less than even steel. With stainless this stresses fastners, makes pipes and welds flex etc. Thats why with stainless manifolds you should always support the turbo.

This isn't my car but another guys with the same kit. He runs RON98 so 93 AKI? At the time of the dyno he hadn't gotten all of his exhaust parts and still had some stock parts. It's also on the wastegate so a EBC like mine runs would bring the boost on a couple hundred rpm earlier. The throttle response is what makes the difference though. The off throttle lag of Front mounts vs this setup is insane. The 2nd pic is mine with an EBC and 2.5" exhaust parts and a Q300. GTX30 modified turbo on mine. Tuned on 93 but conservative enough to run 91 with no issues. This is also a tracked car with no cooling upgrades apart from an oilcooler with no overheating issues in 34C days. Oh and I'm also running a Stainless Manifold as the Cast wasn't available when I got mine all done. Mines got a few prototype parts. I may end up getting a Cast option at some point or just getting mine Ceramic Coated.





In terms of numbers, It's metric of course (Get with it USA) and he doesn't do internet dyno runs. My run was after been tuned and with just a small blower fan on a hot day with no cooldown period between runs. His dyno is also the lowest reading dyno I've ever seen and you should add a good 15-20% for most of the dynos you'll see in America. Stock is 105kw roughly on his dyno. To have a look at pics check out the Coyoda Technologies Facebook page and for contact Coyote Tuning's facebook page might be the easiest. He doesn't advertise to heavily as locally in Aus word gets around about his stuff and he's definately not short on customers.

BTW sorry If I'm butting in on your post. We all like turbos (Superchargers, eww) so hopefully it's alright. It's intersting to see how many different options people come up with when they keep developing these cars.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by COO86L

He's an Aussie Tuner in Brisbane QLD. I believe he is on this forum but I don't know how often (and I don't know how to tag people because I'm useless at forums)

Coyote Tuning is the company name. Best way to contact/view stuff is via Facebook. He does a very good job at tuning. Had him tune my car N/A and it was ridiculously good. Moreover he is a wizard with throttle control. He revamps the way the DBW works/reacts and gets a hell of a lot more response out of the car to make it a lot more fun

This must be him

@coyote

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Northwest86

The heat is a part of it. The other part is the fact that A stainless manifold for most applications is difficult to shape in anything but tubes. (cost effectively) The cast manifold only has to be designed and was refined once to get smoother lines in shapes that are not economical with tubular headers. The other one is Heat transfer. Now Stainless has low Conductivity which makes for hotspots and unequal temps. But since most (not all, I haven't seen a Ptuning manifold but most of the others I've seen including some Premium kits are made of cheesegrade thin stainless) Heat Transfered is a product of mass and thermal conductivity. Cast iron and Steel have somewhat similar values with some cast irons slightly less conductive. Stainless varies massively due to alloy but 316 for example would be about 1/2 as conductive as cast iron. But due to the mass the cast will hold heat better, and generally have less surface area. The thermal expansion is what makes cast so much stronger with cast expanding less than even steel. With stainless this stresses fastners, makes pipes and welds flex etc. Thats why with stainless manifolds you should always support the turbo.

This isn't my car but another guys with the same kit. He runs RON98 so 93 AKI? At the time of the dyno he hadn't gotten all of his exhaust parts and still had some stock parts. It's also on the wastegate so a EBC like mine runs would bring the boost on a couple hundred rpm earlier. The throttle response is what makes the difference though. The off throttle lag of Front mounts vs this setup is insane. The 2nd pic is mine with an EBC and 2.5" exhaust parts and a Q300. GTX30 modified turbo on mine. Tuned on 93 but conservative enough to run 91 with no issues. This is also a tracked car with no cooling upgrades apart from an oilcooler with no overheating issues in 34C days. Oh and I'm also running a Stainless Manifold as the Cast wasn't available when I got mine all done. Mines got a few prototype parts. I may end up getting a Cast option at some point or just getting mine Ceramic Coated.





In terms of numbers, It's metric of course (Get with it USA) and he doesn't do internet dyno runs. My run was after been tuned and with just a small blower fan on a hot day with no cooldown period between runs. His dyno is also the lowest reading dyno I've ever seen and you should add a good 15-20% for most of the dynos you'll see in America. Stock is 105kw roughly on his dyno. To have a look at pics check out the Coyoda Technologies Facebook page and for contact Coyote Tuning's facebook page might be the easiest. He doesn't advertise to heavily as locally in Aus word gets around about his stuff and he's definately not short on customers.

BTW sorry If I'm butting in on your post. We all like turbos (Superchargers, eww) so hopefully it's alright. It's intersting to see how many different options people come up with when they keep developing these cars.

I love the torque curve, but it's really hard to wrap my head around the numbers. I figured the percent difference between what I typically see for a base line, ~165hp, and your estimated baseline of 143hp, multiplied that by by your peak power of 220hp, and I get about 255hp. That doesn't seem very impressive for an efficient gtx30 setup running ~93 octane. Any idea what you IATs were during that run?

Also, the scaling is out to fucking lunch, 18.75 Nms between major divisions? Am I reading that right? It looks like you're running at 8psi. If that's true, then the numbers add up a lot better. Is the intercooler efficient enough to keep IATs in check while upping boost to about 10psi, or even 12? 12 would likely be too much for my 91 octane, but a boy can dream, right.

Also, why run a gtx30 on only 8 pounds? A 28 would flow plenty for that power level and get you in boost a little sooner. Did you want more head room for the future? What did you modify about the turbo? To my knowledge, typically turbo mods increase flow and decrease spool. It seems like the turbo would be better suited to run around 350-400 HP, but I don't have the maps memorized.

*That probably reads like I'm saying you did it wrong, I'm not. I'm trying to ask the questions and explain why I'm asking. Stuff like this would be easier in a two way conversation, and not typed.

Thanks for sharing your setup, and info on an otherwise unknown product.

[Northwest86]

Originally Posted by Calum

I love the torque curve, but it's really hard to wrap my head around the numbers. I figured the percent difference between what I typically see for a base line, ~165hp, and your estimated baseline of 143hp, multiplied that by by your peak power of 220hp, and I get about 255hp. That doesn't seem very impressive for an efficient gtx30 setup running ~93 octane. Any idea what you IATs were during that It looks like you're running at 8psi.

Also, why run a gtx30 on only 8 pounds? A 28 would flow plenty for that power level and get you in boost a little sooner.

Both are running 8psi. The turbos have some wastegate mods, mounting mods, some anti surge stuff and a fee other bits and pieces. Some of that is on the page i mentioned. I got a gtx30 be because the boost is still quicker than most 28s and because my car is tracked it runs a little cooler generally. It also gives headroom if i ever move to a city that has e85. I posted those two dynos as thats about as bad as this kit can be. With e85 etc it only gets better.

In terms of power numbers 230?hp from memory is what im making. So yeah somewhere in the range of 250-260 on other dynos with this tune. If we tuned as some people do itd make a good 280 on those dynos easy. We have tuners locally who claim to be in the 280-300 hp range but they get flogged by our 230hp cars so take that as you will. The thing you want to look at really is curves and area under them. There arent to many kits that have such smooth lines and as much drivability. Also keep in mind on that dyno ive been there twice at different times and got numbers 10-15kw different. It may be from recalibration or different tyres etc. but i know for sure it makes more power than basically every other kit thats been on that dyno. Coyote is the one to give more detail on that. For intake temps on the dyno im not sure. On the track on a hot day the intercooler stabilises at about 20-25 c over ambient. Never had it out below 32c before but itd do better when its cool. Ive got some hood vents going in soon which will help that too but its solid. Stock radiators too.