Axle-Exchange One-piece Aluminum Driveshaft ~ impressions - Page 7 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

JimmyMac · 08-31-2013, 10:47 PM

Installed! I'll post up some pics and a brief initial review late tonight. I'm working on some college homework that's due at midnight. So I'll get working on it after that. Oh and yes, that's a crack on my windshield thats been there almost a year. Been too lazy to replace it. Plus the money could be used on more useful stuff like mods... hehe. And no, no issues with leaks and it's not in my view...

JimmyMac · 09-01-2013, 02:34 AM

Ok, here's a brief review. I didn't get to drive with the new shaft much. I think in the lower rpms, it does not feel/hear any different than stock. Meaning, I don't notice any whine or vibrations. It feels normal when just cruising. Don't forget that I have a full exhaust. So I'm not the best person to base sound or vibrations from. I do notice a little noise/vib from 5000 rpms and higher. I went through my gaunlet. It's just a quick session 1,2,3 gear full acceleration onto the new part of the highway. Then a 7000 rpm 2nd gear session through a corkscrew onto another highway. Then vary the gears running at 70~75 mph to experience any vibes or noise at various rpms. Then back down to 2nd gear going onto another road, and 2nd gear back onto another highway. Then cruise home. Through all this I notice 4000 rpms at 70 mph was smooth. Downshifting and raising the rpms to 5000 (3rd gear?) seems to bring up slight nv. The 7000rpm through the corkscrew also had some nv. Not terrible, but it was there. The highway session went pretty good.

Did the car feel quicker? Maybe, I would say it felt lighter. I didn't really get a chance to run it through the gears much. I'll try that tomorrow. I did notice that free reving is a little quicker and it no longer has that rev hang as before. Which is good. I hated it. I'm sure with a lighter flywheel it'll be even quicker, but that's a mod for another day. I'll probably go 13 lb instead of 10.

The install: I want to thank @F1point4 for his awesome DIY driveshaft install thread. That was my main guide for this install. You can check it out here. With that said, there is no reason to do another DIY with this driveshaft. BUT, I have included some pics because everyone loves pics.

A note on the install, I did not have to remove the exhaust hanger as in F1point4's DIY. I simply unbolted the 2 bolts on the carrier/collar and the 4 bolts on the end that mounts to the rear diff. I used a plastic hammer to knock the end loose. Then I slide the whole thing back to clear the muffler and dropped it down. All this was done on my back. No problems or issues doing it like that. Simple and easy. No oil dripped out at all from the tranny. I think just having the back end jacked up aided in this. MAKE SURE TO CHOLK UP THE FRONT TIRES SO THAT THE CAR DOES NOT ROLL FORWARD WHILE YOU ARE WORKING ON IT!! I set the car down on the jack stands, but I also left a little pressure on the jack for added security. The rear was jacked up under the rear diff with a hockey puck between the jack and diff case. (I always use a hockey puck with my car jack.) Putting on the new Axle-Exchange aluminum shaft was easy. Just slide it back to the rear of the car and slowly slide it forward above the exhaust. I would hold the input shaft doing this so that you can guide it into the tranny without damaging the seal. I also put on just a hint of red assembly lube on the first inch of the shaft. I didn't want a "dry" shaft going into the seal. I also put a hint of blue Loctite on each of the 4 bolts in the rear. Just a hint.

Clearance issues? None. I have the Ark Helmholtz resonated front pipe and Invidia N1 catback. No issues with them what-so-ever. There is a pic of the closest that this driveshaft comes to MY exhaust. You can easily fit a finger or thumb in there.

Well, this was a simple and easy install. Can easily be done in under an hour. The tools I used were:

14mm box wrench
14mm gear wrench with one end open
14mm socket
6" extension
Ratchet
Torque wrench
Breaker bar (used with box wrench to break loose the 4 rear bolts)
Plastic hammer (any rubber, wood, or plastic hammer will do)
2 jack stands
2 wheel cholks
Low profile floor jack (Harbor Freight 2 ton is Awesome!!)
Hockey Puck

If you have any other questions, just let me know. For now, enjoy the pics!

Mine weighs 13.2 lbs on my bathroom scale. So give or take a pound...

A view of the end. No one seems to show this... That's a cat hair in there. We have tons of cats running around outside.

Yup, it's been balanced. They say they balance them to 5000 rpms. I had 3 weights on mine.

Ahhhhh man, my car got jacked up!!

This is where it bolts up to the rear diff. I wonder how hard this nut is to take off to change out the final drive. Anyone know??

Here is the front. You can clearly see the delicate seal. Hmmm I wonder if we make these in my factory?

Just a hint of Loctite...

Front installed. Very hard pic to take but it's a nice fit in there with the seal.

Rear bolted up. Marked as well just in case I have to rotate the shaft for balance issues.

Finger clearance with the closest part of the exhaust. This happened to be my N1 resonator.

Another shot of clearance.

Who's that sexy ole lady riding my shaft!!

stockysnail · 09-01-2013, 03:17 AM

Installed mine yesterday. I also took a video of inside cabin noise, which is pleasant in my opinion. Read my build thread's first post and watch the video if curious to hear what it sounds like. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24596

37 · 09-01-2013, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyMac

I do notice a little noise/vib from 5000 rpms and higher.

It shouldn't vibrate. Clock it 90 degrees and try again. One of the four positions should ideally have no vibration.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyMac

I did notice that free reving is a little quicker and it no longer has that rev hang as before.

Free-revving with the clutch depressed doesn't spin the driveshaft at all. The engine is on its own. Rev hang is solved with a lighter flywheel.

JimmyMac · 09-01-2013, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37

It shouldn't vibrate. Clock it 90 degrees and try again. One of the four positions should ideally have no vibration.

Free-revving with the clutch depressed doesn't spin the driveshaft at all. The engine is on its own. Rev hang is solved with a lighter flywheel.

Good point, I wonder how I was doing it then. I'll have to review that.

Today I'll go out again and check for any vibes. If need be I can rotate it. That's why I marked it. Then it'll be the fun part of pulling the hand brake, lay under the car, loosen the bolt, release brake, rotate shaft, pull brake, etc., etc.. Hehe

Wrist20 · 09-01-2013, 10:47 AM

@JimmyMac you are just hearing engine and trans noise resonating through the aluminum. This is one of the reason manufacturers use a two piece design. Also, The stock shaft probably has a carboard filler, which absorbs the sound, ours is completely hollow. You can test this by tapping your stock tube with a open ended wrench and then tapping the aluminum one. That will help you to understand why it sounds like you have a vibration.

JimmyMac · 09-01-2013, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrist20

@JimmyMac you are just hearing engine and trans noise resonating through the aluminum. This is one of the reason manufacturers use a two piece design. Also, The stock shaft probably has a carboard filler, which absorbs the sound, ours is completely hollow. You can test this by tapping your stock tube with a open ended wrench and then tapping the aluminum one. That will help you to understand why it sounds like you have a vibration.

This is what I'm thinking as well. I'm not really feeling vibes, but the sound of it. If that makes any sense. It's dead smooth up to 4000 rpms, then the sound starts to come in around 5000. It's not loud, just noticeable. I'll take it out for a spin and check the upper rpms again anyways just to be sure.

Taber · 09-01-2013, 11:15 AM

I have the perrin 3" front pipe and BIG 3" cat back, and feedback on the clearance with this setup?

industrial · 09-03-2013, 10:27 AM

Just placed my order. I hope this thing plays nice with my lightweight flywheel and crank pulley. Been waiting for a nice aluminum ds for a while, I have high hopes for this one!

charged86 · 09-03-2013, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by industrial

Just placed my order. I hope this thing plays nice with my lightweight flywheel and crank pulley. Been waiting for a nice aluminum ds for a while, I have high hopes for this one!

Let us know about idle and between shifts etc

slates74 · 09-09-2013, 10:55 PM

Now that the temps have dropped I can say I'm absolutely loving this car in combination with the the lightweight wheels and driveshaft. I swear it just feels so much more responsive to me than it did stock.

industrial · 09-10-2013, 09:23 PM

I received the driveshaft just 2 days after ordering. It is a thing of beauty. There has been a noticeable increase in gearbox noise on deceleration right at around 2600-3200rpm. You can't really notice with the radio on past "20". It sounds like the same chatter you hear normally, just louder and more metallic.

No cels or drive-ability issues. There is more noise but it's very liveable. I don't notice any change cruising on the highway. Cruising around town, I don't hear the noise at all if I have the radio on or there is other normal traffic around. I have to be actively listening to the car for noises to really notice. I'm very happy with this driveshaft. I'll get a video up later.

The car really seems eager to jump when I stab the throttle now. Just a buttdyno impression but...the car really rips now. It's very fun to drive. I'm at around -20 (wheels/tires), -13 (driveshaft), -10 (flywheel) and -4 (pulleys) for a total of -47 pounds of rotating mass. I've dropped about 120 pounds of static mass on top of all that.

wootwoot · 09-11-2013, 12:22 AM

Those of you with light weight flywheels: how much gear noise are you getting?

Ooops · 09-11-2013, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taber

I have the perrin 3" front pipe and BIG 3" cat back, and feedback on the clearance with this setup?

Ditto

Anyone fit this with the Perrin 3" Catback Exhaust yet?

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08-31-2013, 10:47 PM	#85
JimmyMac Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: 2013 FR-S, 2016 Miata Club Location: NC Posts: 785 Thanks: 183 Thanked 258 Times in 171 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Installed! I'll post up some pics and a brief initial review late tonight. I'm working on some college homework that's due at midnight. So I'll get working on it after that. Oh and yes, that's a crack on my windshield thats been there almost a year. Been too lazy to replace it. Plus the money could be used on more useful stuff like mods... hehe. And no, no issues with leaks and it's not in my view...

09-01-2013, 02:34 AM	#86
JimmyMac Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: 2013 FR-S, 2016 Miata Club Location: NC Posts: 785 Thanks: 183 Thanked 258 Times in 171 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Ok, here's a brief review. I didn't get to drive with the new shaft much. I think in the lower rpms, it does not feel/hear any different than stock. Meaning, I don't notice any whine or vibrations. It feels normal when just cruising. Don't forget that I have a full exhaust. So I'm not the best person to base sound or vibrations from. I do notice a little noise/vib from 5000 rpms and higher. I went through my gaunlet. It's just a quick session 1,2,3 gear full acceleration onto the new part of the highway. Then a 7000 rpm 2nd gear session through a corkscrew onto another highway. Then vary the gears running at 70~75 mph to experience any vibes or noise at various rpms. Then back down to 2nd gear going onto another road, and 2nd gear back onto another highway. Then cruise home. Through all this I notice 4000 rpms at 70 mph was smooth. Downshifting and raising the rpms to 5000 (3rd gear?) seems to bring up slight nv. The 7000rpm through the corkscrew also had some nv. Not terrible, but it was there. The highway session went pretty good. Did the car feel quicker? Maybe, I would say it felt lighter. I didn't really get a chance to run it through the gears much. I'll try that tomorrow. I did notice that free reving is a little quicker and it no longer has that rev hang as before. Which is good. I hated it. I'm sure with a lighter flywheel it'll be even quicker, but that's a mod for another day. I'll probably go 13 lb instead of 10. The install: I want to thank @F1point4 for his awesome DIY driveshaft install thread. That was my main guide for this install. You can check it out here. With that said, there is no reason to do another DIY with this driveshaft. BUT, I have included some pics because everyone loves pics. A note on the install, I did not have to remove the exhaust hanger as in F1point4's DIY. I simply unbolted the 2 bolts on the carrier/collar and the 4 bolts on the end that mounts to the rear diff. I used a plastic hammer to knock the end loose. Then I slide the whole thing back to clear the muffler and dropped it down. All this was done on my back. No problems or issues doing it like that. Simple and easy. No oil dripped out at all from the tranny. I think just having the back end jacked up aided in this. MAKE SURE TO CHOLK UP THE FRONT TIRES SO THAT THE CAR DOES NOT ROLL FORWARD WHILE YOU ARE WORKING ON IT!! I set the car down on the jack stands, but I also left a little pressure on the jack for added security. The rear was jacked up under the rear diff with a hockey puck between the jack and diff case. (I always use a hockey puck with my car jack.) Putting on the new Axle-Exchange aluminum shaft was easy. Just slide it back to the rear of the car and slowly slide it forward above the exhaust. I would hold the input shaft doing this so that you can guide it into the tranny without damaging the seal. I also put on just a hint of red assembly lube on the first inch of the shaft. I didn't want a "dry" shaft going into the seal. I also put a hint of blue Loctite on each of the 4 bolts in the rear. Just a hint. Clearance issues? None. I have the Ark Helmholtz resonated front pipe and Invidia N1 catback. No issues with them what-so-ever. There is a pic of the closest that this driveshaft comes to MY exhaust. You can easily fit a finger or thumb in there. Well, this was a simple and easy install. Can easily be done in under an hour. The tools I used were: 14mm box wrench 14mm gear wrench with one end open 14mm socket 6" extension Ratchet Torque wrench Breaker bar (used with box wrench to break loose the 4 rear bolts) Plastic hammer (any rubber, wood, or plastic hammer will do) 2 jack stands 2 wheel cholks Low profile floor jack (Harbor Freight 2 ton is Awesome!!) Hockey Puck If you have any other questions, just let me know. For now, enjoy the pics! Mine weighs 13.2 lbs on my bathroom scale. So give or take a pound... A view of the end. No one seems to show this... That's a cat hair in there. We have tons of cats running around outside. Yup, it's been balanced. They say they balance them to 5000 rpms. I had 3 weights on mine. Ahhhhh man, my car got jacked up!! This is where it bolts up to the rear diff. I wonder how hard this nut is to take off to change out the final drive. Anyone know?? Here is the front. You can clearly see the delicate seal. Hmmm I wonder if we make these in my factory? Just a hint of Loctite... Front installed. Very hard pic to take but it's a nice fit in there with the seal. Rear bolted up. Marked as well just in case I have to rotate the shaft for balance issues. Finger clearance with the closest part of the exhaust. This happened to be my N1 resonator. Another shot of clearance. Who's that sexy ole lady riding my shaft!!

09-01-2013, 10:47 AM	#90
Wrist20 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Drives: 2012 GLI Location: Fairfield Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 3 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	@JimmyMac you are just hearing engine and trans noise resonating through the aluminum. This is one of the reason manufacturers use a two piece design. Also, The stock shaft probably has a carboard filler, which absorbs the sound, ours is completely hollow. You can test this by tapping your stock tube with a open ended wrench and then tapping the aluminum one. That will help you to understand why it sounds like you have a vibration.

09-01-2013, 11:15 AM	#92
Taber Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Drives: 2013 BRZ Limited Location: Maine Posts: 61 Thanks: 17 Thanked 21 Times in 15 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I have the perrin 3" front pipe and BIG 3" cat back, and feedback on the clearance with this setup?

09-03-2013, 10:27 AM	#93
industrial Add lightness! Join Date: Apr 2012 Drives: 17' WRX Location: Boston Posts: 1,253 Thanks: 380 Thanked 888 Times in 411 Posts Mentioned: 20 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Just placed my order. I hope this thing plays nice with my lightweight flywheel and crank pulley. Been waiting for a nice aluminum ds for a while, I have high hopes for this one!

09-09-2013, 10:55 PM	#95
slates74 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Drives: 13 SWP BRZ LTD 6MT Location: nnj Posts: 212 Thanks: 127 Thanked 79 Times in 49 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Now that the temps have dropped I can say I'm absolutely loving this car in combination with the the lightweight wheels and driveshaft. I swear it just feels so much more responsive to me than it did stock.

09-10-2013, 09:23 PM	#96
industrial Add lightness! Join Date: Apr 2012 Drives: 17' WRX Location: Boston Posts: 1,253 Thanks: 380 Thanked 888 Times in 411 Posts Mentioned: 20 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I received the driveshaft just 2 days after ordering. It is a thing of beauty. There has been a noticeable increase in gearbox noise on deceleration right at around 2600-3200rpm. You can't really notice with the radio on past "20". It sounds like the same chatter you hear normally, just louder and more metallic. No cels or drive-ability issues. There is more noise but it's very liveable. I don't notice any change cruising on the highway. Cruising around town, I don't hear the noise at all if I have the radio on or there is other normal traffic around. I have to be actively listening to the car for noises to really notice. I'm very happy with this driveshaft. I'll get a video up later. The car really seems eager to jump when I stab the throttle now. Just a buttdyno impression but...the car really rips now. It's very fun to drive. I'm at around -20 (wheels/tires), -13 (driveshaft), -10 (flywheel) and -4 (pulleys) for a total of -47 pounds of rotating mass. I've dropped about 120 pounds of static mass on top of all that.

09-11-2013, 12:22 AM	#97
wootwoot Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: FRS Location: Cali Posts: 1,558 Thanks: 188 Thanked 461 Times in 264 Posts Mentioned: 9 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Those of you with light weight flywheels: how much gear noise are you getting?

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