Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[GT86Asia]

Hi Guys,

Doing another update.

This is my third week on the Edelbrock SC, man time goes by quickly!

This past monday I visited my tuners, Delicious Tuning, and they let me know there is an update on the idling issue and a few other little things with the tune that they were working on.
After Bill put in the updates tune, the car has been running SMOOOOOTH, no more idling hesitation when stoping. I tried the A/C on, and perfect! no issues at all.

I'm really happy about it!, but now that I tasted some boost these past weeks, I'm already thinking....Motor build! Smaller pulley!!! hahahaha.

But the car is super fun, except I kindda got owned by a tesla a couple days ago.....but whatever, I just ignored it....I gave him a head start, and I didn't launch the car....but yeah I couldn't gain even an inch on it....from 0-50mph... then he pu$$ied out and wouldn't go over the speed limit, hehe.

So, my car is now at 2,400 miles, been boosted since mile 900. And I'll be doing oil changes every 3000-3500 miles. My mechanic told me that when I do my first oil change, to go 5-40w, so I'll be doing that.
I had read some posts that it's super thick like honey....but it really isn't that thick. It's thicker than 0-20w but that's a good thing for my FI brz.

I'll let you guys know how the car feels after I go for the thicker oil.

I'll be going to Streets of Willow in June probably, and see how the car behaves on the track. I also got installed 2 Radium catch cans this past week, I'll see if I get any oil in the when at the track.

I guess the only thing I'm still debating is if I should go to the track before or after I do my first oil change. Considering now I'm at 0-20 and after I'll be at 5-40w. Hmmmmm....I suppose playing it safe would be to go after the oil change.

Though it would be a good comparison to track when using 0-20w and then track again when using 5-40w, to see if there is any noticable difference.

Unless someone has already done this here at the forums? can can share their experiences.

Alright, this is all for now, cheers!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JGalp

has anyone changed anything for the type of oil you guys are choosing when switching to FI? i was looking at ENEOS and MOTUL. sticking with 0W-20? 5W-30?

Unless your FI is oil cooled (some turbos), FI has no bearing on your oil temps or oil weight.

Stick to 0W20 unless you have a very specific need for a 5W30.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by GT86Asia

Hi Guys,

Doing another update.

This is my third week on the Edelbrock SC, man time goes by quickly!

This past monday I visited my tuners, Delicious Tuning, and they let me know there is an update on the idling issue and a few other little things with the tune that they were working on.
After Bill put in the updates tune, the car has been running SMOOOOOTH, no more idling hesitation when stoping. I tried the A/C on, and perfect! no issues at all.

I'm really happy about it!, but now that I tasted some boost these past weeks, I'm already thinking....Motor build! Smaller pulley!!! hahahaha.

But the car is super fun, except I kindda got owned by a tesla a couple days ago.....but whatever, I just ignored it....I gave him a head start, and I didn't launch the car....but yeah I couldn't gain even an inch on it....from 0-50mph... then he pu$$ied out and wouldn't go over the speed limit, hehe.

$400k+ Aventadors get pwned by Teslas too.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0e-jquwHKtI"]Tesla Model S P85D vs Lamborghini Aventador Race - YouTube[/ame]

Originally Posted by GT86Asia

So, my car is now at 2,400 miles, been boosted since mile 900. And I'll be doing oil changes every 3000-3500 miles. My mechanic told me that when I do my first oil change, to go 5-40w, so I'll be doing that.
I had read some posts that it's super thick like honey....but it really isn't that thick. It's thicker than 0-20w but that's a good thing for my FI brz.

I'll let you guys know how the car feels after I go for the thicker oil.

I'll be going to Streets of Willow in June probably, and see how the car behaves on the track. I also got installed 2 Radium catch cans this past week, I'll see if I get any oil in the when at the track.

I guess the only thing I'm still debating is if I should go to the track before or after I do my first oil change. Considering now I'm at 0-20 and after I'll be at 5-40w. Hmmmmm....I suppose playing it safe would be to go after the oil change.

Though it would be a good comparison to track when using 0-20w and then track again when using 5-40w, to see if there is any noticable difference.

Unless someone has already done this here at the forums? can can share their experiences.

Alright, this is all for now, cheers!

NO NO NO NO NO.

You need a new mechanic. Going FI does not change the tolerances or lubrication requirements of your engine. Keep using 0W20. Do not change your oil weight unless you have very clear, specific reason for doing so. "being FI" not a reason.

[illmatic]

@CSG Mike which side is more important for radium catch can for a DD running the CARB tune?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by illmatic

@CSG Mike which side is more important for radium catch can for a DD running the CARB tune?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Driver side.

I recommend you do my litmus test of checking your intake tube for oil; you may not need a catch can.

[Firesnake]

Originally Posted by Tomcat07

I did this as well. The first thing I noticed was major power loss delivered from the engine. I thought I messed up my MAF position and went to my tuner to have it checked out, but then discovered that the tune was fine and the IATs were through the roof. My IATs went from 115 degrees to 145 degrees. I think it's because the radiator isn't ducted the way the oem one was.

I just put some foam weather stripping around the radiator today and plan on testing it out. To see if that helps.

I think this big bad radiator is heating the air in the engine bay more than the oem one did due to its increased cooling capacity and the intake was sucking air from the engine bay around it following the path of least resistance.

The airbox was also very hot to the touch after a little bit of driving so I may end up heat shielding the whole intake right up to the pulleys.

EDIT:
Also I will be testing it out at Roebling Road Raceway June 4th and 5th so I'd like to compare results with you. I won't be able to log it, just take measurements at the conclusion of each run.

I had the line kink issue as well, we had to massage it to get them to not kink the same way you did.

We also reused the OEM cap because the Jr cap didn't fit properly.

Yeah, Im noticing anything below 3k rpm seems slower than usual. I haven't done the weatherstrip yet, but I plan to. As for Buttonwillow, I lagged on signing on and my class filled up quick. Im on the wait list but I doubt Ill get in. Ill relay any info I can get once my work schedule and track dates align.

Mike D

[JGalp]

This may be a stupid question..but does anyone know of any dealerships that are Supercharger friendly in terms of doing the free oil changes that come with purchase of a Subaru? I was thinking maybe South coast since they are all about modding..any suggestions / personal experiences appreciated!! SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA PLEASE!!

[GT86Asia]

Hi, uhm, there should be NO Subaru Dealership that can deny you from service you have paid for, specially your first free oil change, and then if you purchased the service maintenance with synthetic oil for every 6000 mile, which is offered by Subaru of North America.

I guess unless you swap your engine and put an LS engine in your BRZ/FRS, if you still have an FA20, no matter what u've done to it, an oil change and maintenance service is still just that, an oil change and maintenance service.

So don't be afraid going to the dealership where you bought your car at.

[CSG Mike]

Unfortunately, the dealer may elect not to take on the liability of servicing a modified car. The dealership is, still a business, and has the right to refuse your business.

Now that being said, South Coast is pretty good about this, but do understand that they may ask you to waive liability before working on your car. Ask for Ferdie at SCS and tell him hi for us!

[Freude am Fahren]

I would hope since an oil change has 0 interference with the oil change they should. Maybe a note from Edelbrock stating that Subaru 0w-20 is still okay would help?

If not though, maybe you can convince them to give you the oil and filter for free. Oil changes aren't too tough

[B T]

Just want to throw in another report of low RPM throttle hesitation and slight bucking on the Edelbrock CARB tune. There seems to be a large loss of power around 2400 RPM as well. It's about that same point that the bucking occurs when downshifting. Car is all stock otherwise.

[Edelbrock LLC]

Originally Posted by B T

Just want to throw in another report of low RPM throttle hesitation and slight bucking on the Edelbrock CARB tune. There seems to be a large loss of power around 2400 RPM as well. It's about that same point that the bucking occurs when downshifting. Car is all stock otherwise.

We appreciate the feedback. If you have not already, please reach out to our tech department first to relay info pertaining to your specific vehicle. There are many factors that could contribute to your case and we want you to be 100% satisfied with our product.

[taiguy]

Short update with my BRZ. I had an opportunity to dig into the car over the holiday weekend.

Started off with another spray of starter fluid to look for changes in idle with the car running. I wasn't able to illicit any response spraying intake, port injectors, manifold gasket, throttle body, or MAF sensor.

Took out the MAF. Sensor was clean but gave it a good spray of MAF cleaner and remounted.

The driver side port injectors looked fine after I removed them. The passenger side port injectors were a bit different. The one closest to the bumper had significant grime build up on the front of it, and then the plug was filled with a dark liquid, that looked like oil but probably a mixture of old fuel with dirt.





Rails and injectors were removed, cleaned off, and put aside.

A few bolts later, the supercharger and manifold were also free so I took a look at the gaskets. Both manifold gaskets were seated correctly and no signs of tears, cuts, or squishing.

However, while both were put in dry, when I took them out, they were visibly "wet". More fuel buildup?







Also double checked the hoses going back into the throttle body top to bottom: evap, brake booster, and PCV.

After shooting Mike a quick email my plan is to put it all back together later this week and see if I can't generate some new logs.

Puzzling...

[Kodename47]

@taiguy did you swap the injector O rings over? Looks like fuel/oil leak from somewhere.