06-26-2017, 09:56 PM | #15 |
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I did not buy the wrong engine! Have you ever seen how much abuse little 4.8's can take? They have a 3.78 bore x 3.27 stroke with a longer rod than any other ls. This lowers piston speed, which decreases wear on the cylinder walls. Check out 1200hp 4.8 ls on google. Interesting read. I am shooting for 300 to the tire with the current setup and have 2 6765 billet precision turbos for later. I want to make 1000/1000 and it is entirely possible. Should come at 18-22 psi. Denmah on ls tech made 1078 on a stock 6.0 in a colorado. Bottom line, people throw away 4.8's and go for 6.0's, ls7's, etc. I got my engine for 500 bucks. Im in for a penny a pound to prove that 4.8's more than have what it takes!
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06-26-2017, 11:13 PM | #16 |
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I hate to say this but this platform is not designed for 1000whp. the wheelbase is very short, car is light, and can only support but so much of a tire in the rear. Good looking build so far but it's going to be scary. What are you doing with the heater core lines?
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06-27-2017, 12:41 AM | #17 | |
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06-27-2017, 05:14 AM | #18 | |
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06-27-2017, 05:38 AM | #19 | |
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06-27-2017, 05:55 AM | #20 |
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If you can get 1000hp from a 4.8 and make it survive more than a few dynos and drag strip passes I will be impressed. I had 500whp from a 4.8 reliably but 1000hp is much more. I have to ask though, are you making a straight line car? The iron block isn't light.
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06-27-2017, 07:03 AM | #21 |
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4.8's are well proven to perform well under boost and all anyone needs to do is read up on the subject. I chose the iron block for cost. Plus they handle boost well. Block weighs 216 dry. But i have also taken off power steering, ac, all the heavy parts and swapped for ls2 parts. Probably will do drag strip at first. What was the part from dss to convert the rear end you bought? Different pinion yoke or 4 bolt converter to 1350 yoke?
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06-27-2017, 09:35 AM | #22 |
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there is an 89lb different between iron and aluminum. it isn't too terrible.
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06-27-2017, 10:19 AM | #23 | |
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06-27-2017, 11:16 AM | #24 |
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07-16-2017, 03:43 AM | #25 |
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Finally had enough of the clutch master cylinder getting in the way of the valve cover. Move the MC to the right and bent the linkage inside the car. Clears the valve cover completely now. Also ordered a driveshaft from DSS. 3" aluminum and 48 1/8 inches long. Used an FRS 4 bolt at the rear and GM 26 spline. Was surprised it came to only 509. Just need a wiring harness now and exhaust and it should be able to run soon.
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07-23-2017, 05:24 AM | #26 |
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Finally making some solid progress. Coolant system is done, filled up, and bled. Installed the dipstick, filled up the oil with no leaks. Put the coils on the valve covers, new spark plug wires installed. Was able to bleed the brakes and the clutch master cylinder. Rear coilovers on. Starter installed. Next is to tighten up everything in the rear and reinstall the back half of the exhaust. Next up is wiring, wiring, wiring...Got my MRS device and removed all the dash pieces to put it in. Waiting on the PSI LS2 E40 wiring harness, DSS driveshaft, and GTOG8GTA shifter.
One question about the harness is that it is made for 2 side knock sensors, but I have 2 in the valley. Anyone know of an adapter from single wire knock sensors to ls2 style 2 wire knock sensors? Figured out which exhaust manifolds I will use too. LS3 exhaust manifolds exit in the center which should make it easy to hook up (2) 2 bolt flanges to a y pipe. Got an adapter for a 2 bolt to 3" v band so I can use the whole rest of my full blown exhaust, which is 3" to a vibrant 5" muffler. |
07-24-2017, 04:06 PM | #27 |
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Do you think the GTO shifter will align perfectly or will you need to make some changes? I also have the F body trans and that may be a good solution for me.
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07-24-2017, 04:37 PM | #28 |
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How would you rate the installation ease of the MRS device? were the instructions thorough enough?
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