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Old 10-01-2019, 05:27 PM   #2437
Cookiemonster
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Originally Posted by HachirocksU View Post
Since you are going 2JZ,..
Forgeline GS1R
18x10
Sorry should have mentioned budget...90% of my budget is going into the swap itself, so a set of wheels costing 4K+ are out of the question.

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Old 10-02-2019, 09:36 AM   #2438
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Sorry should have mentioned budget...90% of my budget is going into the swap itself, so a set of wheels costing 4K+ are out of the question.
These are 18x10 5x100 +38 RPF1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-RPF1-...IAAOSwe9VcRmuJ

I also really like these Forged 527F XXR 18x10 +40
https://www.ebay.com/itm/XXR-527F-18...ry!97404!US!-1
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Old 10-02-2019, 05:40 PM   #2439
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These are 18x10 5x100 +38 RPF1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-RPF1-...IAAOSwe9VcRmuJ

I also really like these Forged 527F XXR 18x10 +40
https://www.ebay.com/itm/XXR-527F-18...ry!97404!US!-1
Thanks, those are some good options...totally forgot about teh ebehyyy.

Would like to know, though, for a 9.5" wheel...is 285 too wide for say, Ventus RS-4's or Michelin SS? Don't want too soft of a sidewall bc tire is too wide for the rim..but at the same time, would love to have as much contact patch as I can get.

Guess in the meantime I'll jump on ebay to look at more 18x10"ers
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Old 10-02-2019, 06:16 PM   #2440
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Originally Posted by Cookiemonster View Post
Thanks, those are some good options...totally forgot about teh ebehyyy.

Would like to know, though, for a 9.5" wheel...is 285 too wide for say, Ventus RS-4's or Michelin SS? Don't want too soft of a sidewall bc tire is too wide for the rim..but at the same time, would love to have as much contact patch as I can get.

Guess in the meantime I'll jump on ebay to look at more 18x10"ers
You're welcome!

RS-4's are not available in a 285/30/18. I would suggest a 265/35/18 RS-4, for a 18x9.5 or 18x10 wheel. A 265/35 RS-4 has a tread width of 9.8". Tire compound has more to do with traction than contact patch.

I think you will need: LCA, swaybars, endlinks, toe arms, coilovers, camber plates (if the coils don't have them), and possibly trailing arms. I would also suggest a bumpsteer kit. Additionally, to get max grip, you will want -3.0 or more front camber, and somewhere around -2.4 rear camber.

The suspension you choose will effect how well you can use your contact patch. It will have to be quite a bit stiffer that OEM.

Seriously, with how much an engine swap costs. I would suggest building the "heart" of your car first and then buy it new shoes.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-11-2019, 06:58 AM   #2441
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Seeking expert advice here..

19 PP BRZ... just bought Tein Flex Z coilovers and Titan7 T-S5 wheels (18x9.5 +40 offset). Planning to get 255/35s all around. Do you guys think it’s an absolute necessity that I get adjustable rear LCA etc? Would leaving the stock setup in place work with the wheel/tire combo?
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Old 10-11-2019, 07:55 AM   #2442
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Seeking expert advice here..

19 PP BRZ... just bought Tein Flex Z coilovers and Titan7 T-S5 wheels (18x9.5 +40 offset). Planning to get 255/35s all around. Do you guys think it’s an absolute necessity that I get adjustable rear LCA etc? Would leaving the stock setup in place work with the wheel/tire combo?
The rear LCA are for adjustability when you drop the car. If you don't lower the car much, the need for rear LCA is not there. But if you bought such huge wheels and coilovers as your first mods, I'm anticipating you're going to be lowering the car, so I'd bite the bullet and get them. Easier to swallow the pill now then after you pay for an alignment and they can't do anything because of your stock LCA.
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:27 PM   #2443
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The rear LCA are for adjustability when you drop the car. If you don't lower the car much, the need for rear LCA is not there. But if you bought such huge wheels and coilovers as your first mods, I'm anticipating you're going to be lowering the car, so I'd bite the bullet and get them. Easier to swallow the pill now then after you pay for an alignment and they can't do anything because of your stock LCA.
Thanks ... Ended up getting the adjustable LCA and the toe arms. Might as well just do the alignment once and be done.

What alignment specs do y’all recommend? Mainly for street use.
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Old 10-12-2019, 04:04 AM   #2444
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Originally Posted by Jdmuscle View Post
Thanks ... Ended up getting the adjustable LCA and the toe arms. Might as well just do the alignment once and be done.

What alignment specs do y’all recommend? Mainly for street use.
0 Toe Front, Slight Toe in rear, -3 degree front and -2 degree rear
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:08 PM   #2445
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I see you stated you needed those suspension parts to have this tire and wheel setup. Would this tire hit the stock suspension? Is that why u needed coilovers?

Yeah it would definitely hit the stock suspension. you for sure need coils.



you will definitely need LCA's if you want to adjust the rear camber and toe.
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:30 PM   #2446
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Yeah it would definitely hit the stock suspension. you for sure need coils.



you will definitely need LCA's if you want to adjust the rear camber and toe.
Yes sir.. got them all!!

1) Tein Flex Z
2) SPC LCA
3) SPC toe arms
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Old 10-23-2019, 10:13 PM   #2447
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Where is the speedometer odometer sensor on a 05 Toyota Tundra 4.7 automatic transmission

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Old 10-23-2019, 11:52 PM   #2448
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Where is the speedometer odometer sensor on a 05 Toyota Tundra 4.7 automatic transmission

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Old 10-24-2019, 02:22 AM   #2449
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Thanks ... Ended up getting the adjustable LCA and the toe arms. Might as well just do the alignment once and be done.

What alignment specs do y’all recommend? Mainly for street use.
Camber setting are gained by working out a few things.

Street settings according to me, so take with a grain of salt.

Tyre compounds and pressures, different tyres take different camber and pressure settings (is the car in fact using the tyre, soft compound/hard compound/cold tyres/warm tyres/hot tyres)

For the street a alignment settings will be comprised to a point, do you want long tyre wear, to you want handling more than caring about tyre wear? A bit of in between by adjusting your toe settings?

Currently, my settings are -2.0° front and -1.5 rear, zero toe everywhere.

Tyres are Bridgestone RE003 235/45 17 on a 8" rim, running 34 psi, tyres are wearing evenly.

Car handles extremely well (also running MCA Street Performance coil overs, 6kg front, 4.5kg rear, also with the MCA Traction mod)

A more aggressive set up would work better for when I hit the twisties, but that only happens about monthly.

A aggressive setup for a daily can and does reduce tyre life, and, more importantly, braking.

My recommendation is to set a moderate setting and drive around for a few weeks, then look at your tyres, where are they wearing.

Q: are you running up over the shoulder? A: not enough camber.

Q: Are your not getting to the edge of the tyre? A: to much camber.

For a dedicated street car I would be doing this with zero toe everywhere to maximize tyre life.

99% of the time, a well thought out tested setting will smoke an aggressive setting.

Opinions may vary.

Have fun.
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Old 10-24-2019, 02:39 AM   #2450
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Zero toe everywhere is not exactly best choice. There is reason why some rear toe-in is there even in OE alignment. Slight toe-in doesn't wear tires excessive and is acceptable trade-off for more stable, less nervous rear, so that one can baby throttle less accelerating out of turns and has to fight less to keep car straight in lacking grip conditions, eg. when wet or in winter. Hence the reason, why some toe-in there is advised for most RWD cars, and not just for tracked ones.
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