The proper way to adjust camber independently?

[Cheeseballs]

For a car dropped about 40mm looking to run -2.5° camber, a wee bit of toe, and factory castor (6°) I won't be doing my own alignments, but I would like to make it easier for whoever does.

Price is not a consideration.

Is the most proper way to adjust the front (in order)

1. Aftermarket front lower control arm
2. Camber plates
3. Bushings for OEM front lower control arm.
4. OEM crash bolts
5. A combination of the first four or something else entirely

And the rear

1. Aftermarket rear upper control arm
2. Adjustable bushings for OEM rear upper control arms (a huge pain to install and adjust)
3. Something else entirely

I left out aftermarket rear lower control arms because, and I quote,

"People seem to be stuck on replacing rear control arms yet dont replace the FAR MORE important upper control arm bushings that have 4 , soft, bushings that hold the 2 heaviest arms to the rear of the subframe. So yes those who replace rear control arms and did NOT replace those upper bushings have only put MORE pressure and strain on the upper bushings."

and

"With a threaded-body/height-adjustable coilover you change camber as a side effect of lowering the car, which is incorrect. This is fixed by using an adjustable length lower control arm, which is also the incorrect way to adjust camber (as this arm changes toe angle AND camber angle with one adjustment). The Whiteline camber bushing adjusts the UCA position, which is the correct way since it doesn't alter toe."

[Racecomp Engineering]

Another option for the rear is replace the upper control arm bushings with the non-adjustable WL bushings (for making them non-squishy) and use an adjustable lower control arm to make adjusting camber possible. This would probably be my preferred option unless someone makes an option #1.

I do think that if you don't replace the bushings then you're missing out. But they are a pain to adjust.

- Andy

[JerryMichaels7]

Racer X Fab makes an upper fyi.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Another option for the rear is replace the upper control arm bushings with the non-adjustable WL bushings (for making them non-squishy) and use an adjustable lower control arm to make adjusting camber possible. This would probably be my preferred option unless someone makes an option #1.

I do think that if you don't replace the bushings then you're missing out. But they are a pain to adjust.

- Andy

So the nonadjustable are not a huge pita to install, or just not as much as the adjustables?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Not as much of a pain. Still not fun but not nearly as bad. But you also don't have to deal with adjusting them, which is hell.

- andy

[Calum]

Whiteline also sells a bolt to allow adjustment of the factory lower control arm.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA436

I've yet to see anyone else even talk about them here. I don't know if there's an issue, but it seems like a fantastic idea to me.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Calum

Whiteline also sells a bolt to allow adjustment of the factory lower control arm.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA436

I've yet to see anyone else even talk about them here. I don't know if there's an issue, but it seems like a fantastic idea to me.

Wow, wonder when those came out. Seems solid for people that don't need a hardcore alignment with +/- 1.5 degrees adjustment (and even then you still may be good with these combined with the camber gained from a natural drop). I meant he SPC lcas only give 2 degrees and these are under $100.

But would these alter toe just like lcas do?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Wow, wonder when those came out. Seems solid for people that don't need a hardcore alignment with +/- 1.5 degrees adjustment (and even then you still may be good with these combined with the camber gained from a natural drop). I meant he SPC lcas only give 2 degrees and these are under $100.

But would these alter toe just like lcas do?

I don't see how they wouldn't. Both products change the overall length from pivot to pivot.

[finch1750]

How much toe adjustment do we have from factory? Im gonna get an alignment check soon to try and figure out what i need to fix the rear since my drop (RCE yellows).

With how negative I am now the new whiteline bushings seem great as long as toe can be adjusted properly.

[Jeff@Racer X Fab]

One of the better solutions for rear camber adjustment, half of the weight of the OEM cast arm and many happy customers.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53575

[bfrank1972]

I have H&R camber bolts that I plan to install on my stock rear LCA's next year once it gets warm enough again. They should allow a little bit of adjustability - nothing crazy, maybe 1/2 degree, but enough to dial in my rear camber after lowering.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by racerx1715

One of the better solutions for rear camber adjustment, half of the weight of the OEM cast arm and many happy customers.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53575

I agree that would be the best option, but that $700 price tag is killing it for me. I don't doubt that they're worth that much to produce and make a reasonable profit, but they're just not worth that much to me. If it was $400, I might be able to get there.

[Cheeseballs]

Originally Posted by Calum

I agree that would be the best option, but that $700 price tag is killing it for me. I don't doubt that they're worth that much to produce and make a reasonable profit, but they're just not worth that much to me. If it was $400, I might be able to get there.

Assuming these arms eliminate the need for aftermarket lower control arms and OEM upper control arm bushings (maybe $400 total for both not including labor) for most users, it's quite a value. That's not even including the other obvious benefits like quality, ease of adjustability, weight, made in the USA, etc.

I agree the getting over the sticker shock can be tough though.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Cheeseballs

Assuming these arms eliminate the need for aftermarket lower control arms and OEM upper control arm bushings (maybe $400 total for both not including labor) for most users, it's quite a value. That's not even including the other obvious benefits like quality, ease of adjustability, weight, made in the USA, etc.

I agree the getting over the sticker shock can be tough though.

I have no plans of getting aftermarket lower control arms, and made in the USA has no value to me. But I do appreciate your point.