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Old 12-27-2019, 09:13 PM   #8807
jflogerzi
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Any leaks at all will play havoc and if you over tighten the clamps that can cause issues .
With the bludge is that considered over tightened? Should they just hand tight?

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Old 12-27-2019, 09:54 PM   #8808
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With the bludge is that considered over tightened? Should they just hand tight?

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It looks like it’s possibly over tight. I generally like to tighten until the outside of the clamp is about flush with the rubber. Ill rub my finger across and it’ll be smooth across besides feeling a slight lip going from rubber to clamp if that makes any sense. Your clamp on intake pipe side looks pretty low down on the rubber coupler.
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Old 12-27-2019, 10:21 PM   #8809
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It looks like it’s possibly over tight. I generally like to tighten until the outside of the clamp is about flush with the rubber. Ill rub my finger across and it’ll be smooth across besides feeling a slight lip going from rubber to clamp if that makes any sense. Your clamp on intake pipe side looks pretty low down on the rubber coupler.
Does this look better for position on the clamps?

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ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's
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Old 12-28-2019, 01:06 AM   #8810
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Well some of a bitch adjusting where the clamps that are on the intake side might have did it. Car is no longer triggering LTFTs to Max out at idle. STFTs are still lean at idle but that can be corrected with in the tune which I have requested from Mike. Car also no longer stumbles/dips rpms when I clutch in to take off from stop. Also pulls feel better like it did before this issue cropped up. Can't wait to get some timing added and get the idle STFT fixed. Extra timing as I am pegged at 11 WOT and feel the pull from the 69mm pulley should be very nice. Just want to say thanks to everyone who helped me figure out this stupid but very simple problem (hoping). Just goes to show you how sensitive modern cars are...

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Old 12-28-2019, 01:25 AM   #8811
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Curious, how/why does overtightening clamps cause issues with fuel trims? I overtightened all my clamps in the engine bay because I always thought that poorly clamped hoses causes unmetered air to get into the engine.

Maybe I should untighten mine a bit?

Also, are the couplers 3 inches? Going to order a new one online right now just in case it's already been damaged.

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Old 12-28-2019, 01:32 AM   #8812
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Curious, how/why does overtightening clamps cause issues with fuel trims? I overtightened all my clamps in the engine bay because I always thought that poorly clamped hoses causes unmetered air to get into the engine.

Maybe I should untighten mine a bit?

Also, are the couplers 3 inches? Going to order a new one online right now just in case it's already been damaged.

Guessing if its to tight or not positioned correctly it can allow extra air in after the MAF which will cause the ECU to need to adjust STFT and other things due to the extra air coming in.
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Old 12-28-2019, 11:46 AM   #8813
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Originally Posted by jflogerzi View Post
Guessing if its to tight or not positioned correctly it can allow extra air in after the MAF which will cause the ECU to need to adjust STFT and other things due to the extra air coming in.
Over tightening the clamps can damage components. It may crack or tear the coupler causing it to no longer have proper sealing capabilities. Also over tightening the clamp can dent or crack the plastic intake pipe also causing it to leak and not allow adequate sealing capabilities.

Its really no different then proper torque specs. Too loose and the bolt could come out, too tight and you might snap the bolt, damage the threads, or crack the component you are bolting to. So need to find that sweet spot.
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Old 12-28-2019, 06:46 PM   #8814
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@sroby sir, may I ask you what your symptoms were before you sent your 210 unit to JBP for the rebuild? I am leaking at where the two metal plates mate (visible oil) and am debating to send it to JBP to bore new bearings into my unit. I'm just afraid that it's not what is causing the problem.

Right now I have P0171, P117B and P1170 codes. May I ask what codes you had? Thanks
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:03 PM   #8815
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Does this look better for position on the clamps?

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TB side coupler looks better positioning. Hard to tell by pic but clamps look a touch loose now.
But your maf side, the clamps look fine but i would push the sprintex plastic intake pipe in further into the coupler so that ridge lip is all the way inside the coupler then the clamp will be right on the inside of that almost touching not overlapping but side by side. Pretty much push pipe in another 1/8” and move clamp back 1/16” and it should be good. Idk how much it matters but its how mine is should create the best possible seal.
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:28 PM   #8816
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Originally Posted by kev0 View Post
@sroby sir, may I ask you what your symptoms were before you sent your 210 unit to JBP for the rebuild? I am leaking at where the two metal plates mate (visible oil) and am debating to send it to JBP to bore new bearings into my unit. I'm just afraid that it's not what is causing the problem.

Right now I have P0171, P117B and P1170 codes. May I ask what codes you had? Thanks
I wouldn’t be driving with lean codes.

You have a shop check for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks?
Those codes are lean, and DI and PI codes. Could be voltage related.
Are you intercooled? If so how did you ground pump?
Are you on E85? If so what happens on 91-93? Did you wire the flex fuel correctly?
Clean maf,
Test or try replace front 02
Have a spare known good battery you could try swapping and testing?
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:35 PM   #8817
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Quote:
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I wouldn’t be driving with lean codes.

You have a shop check for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks?
Those codes are lean, and DI and PI codes. Could be voltage related.
Are you intercooled? If so how did you ground pump?
Are you on E85? If so what happens on 91-93? Did you wire the flex fuel correctly?
Clean maf,
Test or try replace front 02
Have a spare known good battery you could try swapping and testing?
Reason why I'm still driving it in this condition is because the car is only lean when engine is cold. Once it warms up, my fuel trims are very normal and within operating ranges.

Tried everything but check for exhaust leaks, because I never had trouble prior to SC'ing. Vacuum/boost leak tested, replaced front o2 sensor, cleaned MAF, refitted SC 3x, checked hoses, checked 3rd ground bolt on injector ecu. None of those fixed it.

Happens both on E85 and 93. I assume Flex Fuel kit is installed correctly because there are no leaks at all.

I have a small leak on the SC itself, but it's really small, just a bit of oil leaking from the metal plates, but I don't think that's big enough to spike my fuel trims to max.

My battery is still kickin at 83k miles and still holds voltage (~14.4v), from what I see on my logs, so I'm not sure if it's the battery.

I really am lost at this point and am thinking about just reverting to stock.
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:58 PM   #8818
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Originally Posted by kev0 View Post
Reason why I'm still driving it in this condition is because the car is only lean when engine is cold. Once it warms up, my fuel trims are very normal and within operating ranges.

Tried everything but check for exhaust leaks, because I never had trouble prior to SC'ing. Vacuum/boost leak tested, replaced front o2 sensor, cleaned MAF, refitted SC 3x, checked hoses, checked 3rd ground bolt on injector ecu. None of those fixed it.

Happens both on E85 and 93. I assume Flex Fuel kit is installed correctly because there are no leaks at all.

I have a small leak on the SC itself, but it's really small, just a bit of oil leaking from the metal plates, but I don't think that's big enough to spike my fuel trims to max.

My battery is still kickin at 83k miles and still holds voltage (~14.4v), from what I see on my logs, so I'm not sure if it's the battery.

I really am lost at this point and am thinking about just reverting to stock.
Car batteries are around 12.6 volts. When car is on it will go to around 14.4v bcs it is running off alternator. But a dying battery could still cause issues.

How did you ground intercooler pump?

Have you tried uninstalling the kit and going back to stock or non FI and seeing if codes and issue still persists?

Check exhaust leaks. FI could have pushed it over the edge to cause it to start leaking or it could have just been a coincidence that it happened same time but should at-least rule it out. Fuel trims being bad when cold then good when hot is a indicator of exhaust leak. But could be other things.
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Old 12-28-2019, 07:59 PM   #8819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kev0 View Post
Reason why I'm still driving it in this condition is because the car is only lean when engine is cold. Once it warms up, my fuel trims are very normal and within operating ranges.

Tried everything but check for exhaust leaks, because I never had trouble prior to SC'ing. Vacuum/boost leak tested, replaced front o2 sensor, cleaned MAF, refitted SC 3x, checked hoses, checked 3rd ground bolt on injector ecu. None of those fixed it.

Happens both on E85 and 93. I assume Flex Fuel kit is installed correctly because there are no leaks at all.

I have a small leak on the SC itself, but it's really small, just a bit of oil leaking from the metal plates, but I don't think that's big enough to spike my fuel trims to max.

My battery is still kickin at 83k miles and still holds voltage (~14.4v), from what I see on my logs, so I'm not sure if it's the battery.

I really am lost at this point and am thinking about just reverting to stock.

Interesting you say you have a leak on the SC itself you might find under load or deceleration that leak could be rather large.

Reason I say that is because when I had the water jacket on every now and then I would loose some coolant (not much) then one day I opened the hood to find coolant everywhere.

What had happened was one of the end plates (can't remember which end) on the SC started leaking quite badly but it only did it under load not while sitting at idle.

If it wasn't for the water jacket would have had NO idea where the leak was !
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Old 12-28-2019, 11:00 PM   #8820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
Car batteries are around 12.6 volts. When car is on it will go to around 14.4v bcs it is running off alternator. But a dying battery could still cause issues.

How did you ground intercooler pump?

Have you tried uninstalling the kit and going back to stock or non FI and seeing if codes and issue still persists?

Check exhaust leaks. FI could have pushed it over the edge to cause it to start leaking or it could have just been a coincidence that it happened same time but should at-least rule it out. Fuel trims being bad when cold then good when hot is a indicator of exhaust leak. But could be other things.
My kit isn't the IC'd version, so no intercooler pump. Haven't tried swapping back to non-FI and back as that is a lot of work. Going to just check out the exhaust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sam69 View Post
Interesting you say you have a leak on the SC itself you might find under load or deceleration that leak could be rather large.

Reason I say that is because when I had the water jacket on every now and then I would loose some coolant (not much) then one day I opened the hood to find coolant everywhere.

What had happened was one of the end plates (can't remember which end) on the SC started leaking quite badly but it only did it under load not while sitting at idle.

If it wasn't for the water jacket would have had NO idea where the leak was !
Mine is leaking at the elbow, where metal meets the metal at the end. Were there any performance issues when you didn't notice the leak?
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