Wheel stud replacement

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Kosmos

Any tutorials or maybe someone from here can tell me how to remove the rear hubs

This thread somewhere earlier it was described with pics...

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by qoncept

Who has ever had a bearing fail because they hammered out wheel studs?

I'm not a fan of hammering them just because it's not that hard to pull them and do it "right" but I'd be surprised at any noticeable lifespan change from hammering them honestly.


Heat from track use will kill them far more quickly and I still get 10s of thousands of miles out of wheel bearings on the race car and dedicated track car. Granted they aren't a BRZ/FRS but still.

[Kosmos]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

This thread somewhere earlier it was described with pics...

Already took care of it thanks

[Hyper4mance2k]

Just thought I'd add my experiences from my install this weekend. I used washers and an impact and everthig went well. I hammered the fronts out aftet removing the brakes. For the rears, I hammered the studs out then removed the hub and pulled the studs in. I used some Ichibas in the front and ARPs in the rear. The ARPs are light years ahead of the Ichibas. The ARPs made my impact work to get set, while the Ichibas could almost be pushed in by hand. One of them wouldn't even seat, it just spun in the hub. Fortunately I put a nut on my stock studs when I hammered them out & they were still usable. I've already ordered ARPs for the front and this Ichiba crap will soon find solace in the trash bin.
I guess now I know why they were for sale. :/

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Just thought I'd add my experiences from my install this weekend. I used washers and an impact and everthig went well. I hammered the fronts out aftet removing the brakes. For the rears, I hammered the studs out then removed the hub and pulled the studs in. I used some Ichibas in the front and ARPs in the rear. The ARPs are light years ahead of the Ichibas. The ARPs made my impact work to get set, while the Ichibas could almost be pushed in by hand. One of them wouldn't even seat, it just spun in the hub. Fortunately I put a nut on my studs when I hammered them out & they were still usable. I've already ordered ARPs for the front and this Ichiba crap will soon fine solace in the trash bin.
I guess now I know why they were for sale. :/

Ha yeah man for this purpose I wouldn't touch anything but an OEM stud or the ARP studs.

[Valentino]

Anyone tried this? http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...?RecordID=5105

Good? not good?

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by Valentino

Anyone tried this? http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...?RecordID=5105

Good? not good?

Yep, i have them. They are great. Hold up way better than stock studs.

[Valentino]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Yep, i have them. They are great. Hold up way better than stock studs.

I found the ARP online catalog. and the 100-7727 is the stander OEM replacement size.

[YouShallKnow]

Originally Posted by CenCali86

I am running the ARP extended studs with a 20mm spacer up front and 25mm in the rear. Since they only sold 25mm as a bolt on option I pressed out the other set of studs and just used them as slip on spacers.

I have been running this setup for about 5-6 months now with no problems.

Still running strong? I'm considering your identical setup after spinning a stud on my 20mm spacers and the shearing a stud on my read hub.

Do you do any tracking on them?

What kind of wheels you running? I want to use OEM wheel and lug nuts, but I'm worried the nubs at the end of the APR studs make that impossible.

[CenCali86]

Originally Posted by YouShallKnow

Still running strong? I'm considering your identical setup after spinning a stud on my 20mm spacers and the shearing a stud on my read hub.

Do you do any tracking on them?

What kind of wheels you running? I want to use OEM wheel and lug nuts, but I'm worried the nubs at the end of the APR studs make that impossible.

Well they were running amazing up till I recently sold the car. I am sure they are still doing well for the new owner. I had no problems with the extended studs and they were a great upgrade considering I snapped one of the stock studs.

I was running OEM wheels with Muteki open ended extended lug nuts. I also had 20mm spacer up front as well as 25mm spacer in the rear that I had to press out the offset pair of studs since no one makes a 25mm+ slip on spacer.

I had traced the car once on that setup as well as daily driving and a fair share of spirited driving, so I think they did the job very well. I recommend it.

The install is also very simple and straight forward.

[YouShallKnow]

Originally Posted by CenCali86

Well they were running amazing up till I recently sold the car.

Damn, I guess you can't help with my little favor.

I know it's been said here numerous times that the closed OEM lug nuts don't work with the APR extended studs due to the nose cap on the APR studs.

But what happens when you put an OEM lug nut on? Does it just simply not fit and no thread catch? Or does the 5 mm nose go into the semicircle cap, and 6-7mm of threading catch, but it's just useless because it's so far out on the stud?

I ask because APR has released a new range of sizes for their extended studs stock, 1.950 UHL", and 2.545" UHL.

I haven't done the math yet because I have some measurements to take and I don't know the answer to my question posed here, but I hope to use the new sizes to create a setup where my spacers will push everything out far enough that the stock lug nuts will be able to torque down the wheel even with APR's weird extended noses.

Can anyone with APRs and OEM lugs thread one on and see how much of the APR stud disappears inside?

The OEM lugs take about 20 mm of stock stud and I wonder if it's about the same with the APR (albeit with 5mm less threading).

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help!

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

[chris912]

im having the worst effing problem removing the rear hub. that puppy is siezed. the fronts are cake but man those rears! and its a little past midnight... any idea what might help??? btw ive already looked through this whole thread and youtube and i got nothing...

[Rosticles]

I'm pretty proud of my ghetto setup for removing/inserting studs into the rear hubs. That's a t-slot clamp fixture with a grade 8 bolt. I didn't even end up bleeding!

[CenCali86]

Yea sorry I can't really help you out there. haha

Best of luck though in your search.

Originally Posted by YouShallKnow

Damn, I guess you can't help with my little favor.

I know it's been said here numerous times that the closed OEM lug nuts don't work with the APR extended studs due to the nose cap on the APR studs.

But what happens when you put an OEM lug nut on? Does it just simply not fit and no thread catch? Or does the 5 mm nose go into the semicircle cap, and 6-7mm of threading catch, but it's just useless because it's so far out on the stud?

I ask because APR has released a new range of sizes for their extended studs stock, 1.950 UHL", and 2.545" UHL.

I haven't done the math yet because I have some measurements to take and I don't know the answer to my question posed here, but I hope to use the new sizes to create a setup where my spacers will push everything out far enough that the stock lug nuts will be able to torque down the wheel even with APR's weird extended noses.

Can anyone with APRs and OEM lugs thread one on and see how much of the APR stud disappears inside?

The OEM lugs take about 20 mm of stock stud and I wonder if it's about the same with the APR (albeit with 5mm less threading).

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help!

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.