Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you have brake ducting?

Craftsman with the large XCP battery for the track, Ingersol Rand for home.

no brake ducting

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by GSpeed

I'd consider Endless RF650 as well. Good stuff.



Maybe consider the PFC 08/13 combination. It's not super popular in the US yet, but on our stock brakes (with pedal dance) it was a great combination.

As far as electric impacts go, a 1/2" Ingersoll Rand is never a bad call. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

08F/08R on stock brake setup is great too and was my go-to. The only down side is, for our calipers those fronts are EXPENSIVE! If you're going to do a lot of track days, seriously consider the Sprint Kit, you will actually save money in the long run. 08's for our stock front calipers are ~$324 a set and I went through 2 sets in a year. Unfortunately they don't offer 08's in the AP caliper shape but 01's (which are like throwing an anchor out the back ) are only $192 a set, you shed 20lbs off the car, easier pad swaps and get better braking all around. Plus Hawk HPS pads for the street are only $97.

Currently running Sprint 01 Front / Stock 08 Rear and it's been great!

*edit*
See what happens when you do this at work? @ZionsWrath Just realized you said you had the Sprint Kit already. PFC recommended the 90 compound in place of the 08 up front. DO NOT use them. I lost significant braking confidence/performance by 20 minutes into my sessions. Try the 01/08 route. Loud AF in the Sprint kit but ridiculous braking ability and session longevity.

[DocWalt]

I'm hearing great things about the PFC01s too. Going to try them after wearing out my next set of XP12s.

[EAGLE5]

I think the PFC 11 and 13 are meant to replace the 01. To go through two sets of 08 a year, you have to do a lot of sessions! I use them on the street. They squeal, but they bite great, even when cold. Plus I don't drive it that much.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

I think the PFC 11 and 13 are meant to replace the 01. To go through two sets of 08 a year, you have to do a lot of sessions! I use them on the street. They squeal, but they bite great, even when cold. Plus I don't drive it that much.

The 11 is meant to replace the 01, the 13 is essentially an even more aggressive version of the 01.

http://www.pfcbrakes.com/Repository/...ptions_PRI.pdf

I guess I'll be trying the 11

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

I think the PFC 11 and 13 are meant to replace the 01. To go through two sets of 08 a year, you have to do a lot of sessions! I use them on the street. They squeal, but they bite great, even when cold. Plus I don't drive it that much.

It's not the number of sessions, it's how you use them.

Seriously though, I do a lot of open track days with groups like Precision Track Time and Jeffapalooza. When not instructing or socializing there's still more seat time than I can shake a stick at. The track is hot for 8hrs, you go out whenever you want for as long as you want. Great group of people too.

[GSpeed]

Originally Posted by FrX

I am currently running the PFC 08's all around, and am liking them quite a bit. I am on my second set.

What are the advantages of going to the 13 in the rear? Once I wear through my current set, I might try the combo and see how that goes.

13s are more aggressive than 08s. Just a way to balance bias when you can't adjust hydraulic bias.

Originally Posted by Uplink

08F/08R on stock brake setup is great too and was my go-to. The only down side is, for our calipers those fronts are EXPENSIVE! If you're going to do a lot of track days, seriously consider the Sprint Kit, you will actually save money in the long run. 08's for our stock front calipers are ~$324 a set and I went through 2 sets in a year. Unfortunately they don't offer 08's in the AP caliper shape but 01's (which are like throwing an anchor out the back ) are only $192 a set, you shed 20lbs off the car, easier pad swaps and get better braking all around. Plus Hawk HPS pads for the street are only $97.

Currently running Sprint 01 Front / Stock 08 Rear and it's been great!

*edit*
See what happens when you do this at work? @ZionsWrath Just realized you said you had the Sprint Kit already. PFC recommended the 90 compound in place of the 08 up front. DO NOT use them. I lost significant braking confidence/performance by 20 minutes into my sessions. Try the 01/08 route. Loud AF in the Sprint kit but ridiculous braking ability and session longevity.

Good info. We'll see how we like the 01/08 combo on the AP calipers and go from there. We talked to PFC, and they don't offer the 08/13 combo since the balance is totally thrown off IF you don't do the pedal dance. With EBD disabled, it's great. So we'll see if we can talk them into making us some pads. If not, we'll get some pads from somewhere else. We've had good luck getting custom pads made from Cobalt in the past.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

no brake ducting

Lets get some brake ducting on your car. It'll save you a lot in braking expenses...

[CSG Mike]

I've been wanting to try the Race Technologies RE10 and TS20 on this platform... they're awesome on some other cars.

[Bramick]

General basic question. How to assess suspension stiffness. Someone made a commitment about how my car has very little lean. How stiff is too stiff. Other then track times what else could I do to dial. Apologies for the general question. I'm not sure where to start to learn more.

[GSpeed]

Originally Posted by Bramick

General basic question. How to assess suspension stiffness. Someone made a commitment about how my car has very little lean. How stiff is too stiff. Other then track times what else could I do to dial. Apologies for the general question. I'm not sure where to start to learn more.

If you want to start dialing in your suspension, I'd start looking at tire temperatures and pressures first. At the end of your session, stop as soon as you can (in pit lane, if allowed) and record tire pressures while they're still hot.

As a general rule of thumb, though, you want the suspension to be as soft as you can get away with. On the Viper project where we redesigned the suspension from scratch, increasing compliance (of the suspension as a whole, not like bushing stiffness) was a major goal of ours. The car previously had 1200lb/in springs in the rear with a low motion ratio (0.6) and now it's down to 800 lb/in at 0.8 MR. That's a HUGE difference in allowable deflection over on-track disturbances, and we can already tell a big difference in performance. The car just ignores bumps and dips that used to be super disturbing.

For an 86, we're still figuring out the "magic" spring rates for a track setup. We're running the Tarmac 2 shocks and springs for now. We're planning to soften up the rear spring rates, since we weren't happy with the ride frequency split and Myles (at RCE) suggested a softer rate.

Low body roll is generally a good thing since it speeds up weight transfer, but if it comes from stiff springs that put too much of the burden on the tires, it'll adversely affect how the car drives over bumps and imperfections. How does the car feel over bumps on the track? Like, here at Cresson, there are two big bumps on track we look at for examples of high shock speeds. One's at the exit of Big Bend, and the other's at the entry to Buzzard Neck. Do you get loose over those?

[Northwest86]

It depends on track too. For example all of us including Josh from MCA run 7F/6Rkg setups as they work best in our testing. At different tracks though other setups are optimal. Not to mention running different tyres, aero levels, driving style etc. somewhere in the 6-8F and 5-7R kg springs seems to be a good level though for most cars on smallish (60 second) tracks with bumps and off camber corners.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Northwest86

somewhere in the 6-8F and 5-7R kg springs seems to be a good level though for most cars on smallish (60 second) tracks with bumps and off camber corners.

That's interesting. Over here our tracks tend to be much larger/faster.

My home track is one of the smaller "club" tracks in the country (Hallett) and even a FAST car with a FAST driver on Hoosiers or similar is still an 82-85 second lap. And in 10 turns and 1.8 miles, it still has something like 110ft elevation change.

[Northwest86]

Our tracks aren't slow really. Most of our tracks are 30-50 years old and as such aren't huge. There is one track thats around a 90 second lap thats nice but it's an old track thats extended and is also rather bumpy in inconvenient places.

Our shorter tracks are mostly around 2.1kms (1.3 Miles) and the longer about 3.1kms (1.9 Miles) Mind you too our cars aren't slow. Most of our 86 guys (Sprints every 3 weeks or so) are keeping up with the top cars including Porsches etc. At Lakeside some of us are only 2-3 seconds behind 997 GT3's. We don't have to many inexperienced people and those guys get tons of help and some professional instruction before we let them out with us.

You make do with what you have. Any track is fun though.
Here's one of my first runs (only have a couple videos at this point in time) of The longer circuit. Good fun and cool to see yourself trying different things and getting a better idea after you've finished the day about what works and what doesn't. Skip to the 5:00 mark or so if you don't want to see me cruising around behind some slower cars.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTLfkS_rfE8"]Morgan Park Circuit K - YouTube[/ame]