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Old 05-02-2014, 01:53 PM   #323
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This is an outstanding DIY thank you!
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:27 AM   #324
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my experience, AT vehicle:

I put a T-connector in inlet heater hose:




10mm hose go from T-connector to oil cooler, under intake manifold.
I put elbow connector near oil cooler inlet, for a smaller bend of a hose:


Drain T-connector:



I used these parts:

21311-AA170 - OIL COOLER, COMPLETE
21328-AA220 - PIPE, OIL COOLER
99078-AB330 - HOSE, WATER
21317-AA070 - CONNECTOR, OIL COOLER
80591-8010(x3) - HOSE, CLAMP
80820-6010(x2) - BOLT 6x12x12
09231-5002(x3) - HOSE, CLAMP
~15cm of 12mm(1/2") heater hose, Gates 4272-10120
~80cm of 10mm(3/8") heater hose, Gates 4272-10100
10mm elbow connector, Gates 7315-00909
17-14-17mm MR958633 T-connector, x2
22mm(7/8") hose spring clamps, x2
25mm(1") hose spring clamps, x4
some Subaru Super Blue Coolant

CARNZ, thank you for info!
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:08 AM   #325
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Quote:
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my experience, AT vehicle:

I put a T-connector in inlet heater hose:


Where about is this?
Is the inlet and drain orientation correct?
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:33 AM   #326
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Originally Posted by s2d4 View Post
Where about is this?
Is the inlet and drain orientation correct?
Yes. In "small circle" coolant comes from top of block, via heater to water pump. In case of the open thermostat on a "big circle" the coolant also goes through a radiator, from top to down.
It's also described in parts catalog, red arrow on pics is coolant input from "coolant collector" between intake manifold and top of the block. IN and OUT on 2nd pic means input and output of heater.




http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...97#post1612997

Last edited by indy; 05-03-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:26 PM   #327
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Thanks for the info @indy
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:25 PM   #328
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Originally Posted by normancw View Post
I tracked for the first time today with the Jackson Racing SC and DIY oil cooler - temps peaked at around 241 during 30 minute sessions. On a long 45 minute session, oil temp peaked at 250. Coolant temps never exceeded 210 F. As per the recommendation from @Dezoris I had my tuner set the radiator fan to come on sooner (204 F).
The fan temp change really helped stabilize temps over longer runs glad you did it. Also it helps keep the coolant out of the 212 zone. When coolant is fresh its OK but eventually as coolant starts to lose its ability to raise boiling point of water having fan activation set at 212F means accelerated water evap. The lower fan temp eliminates some of that.
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:43 PM   #329
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Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
The fan temp change really helped stabilize temps over longer runs glad you did it. Also it helps keep the coolant out of the 212 zone. When coolant is fresh its OK but eventually as coolant starts to lose its ability to raise boiling point of water having fan activation set at 212F means accelerated water evap. The lower fan temp eliminates some of that.

Gonna have to dig through the OFT tune and find that spot
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:26 AM   #330
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Gonna have to dig through the OFT tune and find that spot
It will be very helpful info, once found-> please share
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:56 AM   #331
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Its under Misc - Thresholds

But there are 2 tables with 4 blocks in each.

Mode A & Mode B
both with

M0 max(-)
M1 min
M0 max (+)
M1 max|M2 min

Not sure which block to adjust. 2 of the 8 have 212* in them so I suppose its one of the 2.

Anymore info?
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:16 PM   #332
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It looks to me that we can do this without "21328AA220 - PIPE, OIL COOLER" correct?

Just install the oil cooler, have hose going from the water block off plug (now plug with barbed end) to bottom of oil cooler pipe, which then turns into hose that goes into the inlet of the oil cooler.

Then cut into coolant lines at the bottom and install 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Tee (the @xxscaxx way) and have another long hose going from the tee to the oil cooler outlet.

That should be about it right? With the placement of proper sized clamps everywhere.

If so, can we confirm the parts list for this?

I'm running 20psi turbo and would like to post results of this setup soon as my car noticeably struggled yesterday in almost 90 degrees heat.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:19 PM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synack View Post
It looks to me that we can do this without "21328AA220 - PIPE, OIL COOLER" correct?

Just install the oil cooler, have hose going from the water block off plug (now plug with barbed end) to bottom of oil cooler pipe, which then turns into hose that goes into the inlet of the oil cooler.

Then cut into coolant lines at the bottom and install 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Tee (the @xxscaxx way) and have another long hose going from the tee to the oil cooler outlet.

That should be about it right? With the placement of proper sized clamps everywhere.

If so, can we confirm the parts list for this?

I'm running 20psi turbo and would like to post results of this setup soon as my car noticeably struggled yesterday in almost 90 degrees heat.

Yep, you got it. Since that pipe was on backorder I decided to do it with the tee.

The only thing is, you have to drain out the coolant (or make a giant mess like me trying to not drain it lol), and you have to be pretty spot on with your cut in the stock hose. Theres just enough room to add the tee on the one side, so if you cut it too far to the left or right, you will either be too much in the bend of the hose, or too close to the stock hard line and will need a new small piece of hose for that side.

Nice job @indy. I like those tee's better than the brass one I got.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:23 PM   #334
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Yep, you got it. Since that pipe was on backorder I decided to do it with the tee.

The only thing is, you have to drain out the coolant (or make a giant mess like me trying to not drain it lol), and you have to be pretty spot on with your cut in the stock hose. Theres just enough room to add the tee on the one side, so if you cut it too far to the left or right, you will either be too much in the bend of the hose, or too close to the stock hard line and will need a new small piece of hose for that side.
Yeah I'm fully prepared of the coolant flood that's about to ensue after reading every single page of this thread.

Do you have a zoomed out pic of the whole area where I need to install the tee? And where is best to install it so it's not in the bend or stock hard line. That's the only thing I seem to be confused about without having fully lifted the car to see what's going on.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:28 PM   #335
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Unfortunately the only pics I have are the ones I posted, but here they are again.





These two show it best honestly. You can see pretty clear how far I cut over, and how it looks installed. Once you get under there you will see this pretty clearly. That bottom pic shows the hose that has to go up to the side port of the cooler (if looking at the cooler from the front of the car, the port on the right side near the back, right by the oil cap)
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:36 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by normancw View Post
I tracked for the first time today with the Jackson Racing SC and DIY oil cooler - temps peaked at around 241 during 30 minute sessions. On a long 45 minute session, oil temp peaked at 250. Coolant temps never exceeded 210 F. As per the recommendation from @Dezoris I had my tuner set the radiator fan to come on sooner (204 F).
Thanks for the info, What were the ambient temps? it's really good to hear that even after 45 minute sessions oil temps didn't pass 250 F and considering the fact that you have SC it's quite satisfactory, for the reference I managed to see 260-270 F after 20 minutes sessions (more info in my signature) when stock powered ..I assume you have the OEM radiator so hopefully KoyoRad will help stabilize things even better and since I generally don't do more than 20 minutes sessions my temps should stay below 240F, I will report back with more data..I finished installing my oil cooler, KoyoRad and Kraftwerks kit and sandwich plate fitment is tight but it should be fine..



for more info



http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=877


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
The fan temp change really helped stabilize temps over longer runs glad you did it. Also it helps keep the coolant out of the 212 zone. When coolant is fresh its OK but eventually as coolant starts to lose its ability to raise boiling point of water having fan activation set at 212F means accelerated water evap. The lower fan temp eliminates some of that.
Interesting I may ask my tuner to set my fan temps below 212 F zone then but don't you think stock settings are overly protective anyways? just a thought
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