SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[ayau]

Originally Posted by Sccabrz192

My concern is those bolts are smaller diameter than OE in order to offset the holes with the lobe so you are reducing the capability of the bolt in that joint when it comes to bolt shear and clamp load. I'll admit I'm being a little over cautious, but I'm not interesting in taking a chance of shearing off a strut bolt on my 28,000 vehicle because I was trying to get an extra .75 degrees of camber with a $40 dollar fastener. Michigan's roads are particularly what have me worried about it more-so than an autocross or track setting where most places are relatively smooth and your inputs are mostly mid and low frequency inputs.

which top plate are you using?

The factory recommended OEM crash bolts are also 14mm if I recall correctly. I'm not an engineer, but if Subaru engineers recommend using it, then I won't be arguing. If it helps, the bottom bolt doesn't have any play, and I think that bolt takes more punishment than the top bolt.

I'm using the top plates that were included in the Eibach R2 coilovers.

[DylanFRS]

Any of you guys see the Street Tire comparison in the June issue of Grassroots? I just got mine in the mail yesterday and am looking through it a bit today at work.

I am kind of bothered that they didn't test the RS3 and that the test they did was on a STS prepped CRX. It sucks because last year when they did this tire comparo I had a ST Civic and they used a BMW. Now I have a car closer to the BMW and they did it on a car that is almost the same as the Civic... also, why no RS3s?!

I can scan in the article and post it up if anyone is interested and it isn't available online.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by DylanFRS

Any of you guys see the Street Tire comparison in the June issue of Grassroots? I just got mine in the mail yesterday and am looking through it a bit today at work.

I am kind of bothered that they didn't test the RS3 and that the test they did was on a STS prepped CRX. It sucks because last year when they did this tire comparo I had a ST Civic and they used a BMW. Now I have a car closer to the BMW and they did it on a car that is almost the same as the Civic... also, why no RS3s?!

I can scan in the article and post it up if anyone is interested and it isn't available online.

Please scan it, thanks!

[Tt3Sheppard]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I will just add my build to this thread:

Dezoris RTR AutoX Build Thread

Shocks: OEM
Front ARB: Strano (From Stranoparts)
Camber Correction Front: OEM Crash/Camber Bolts (Subaru)
Tires: 225/45/17 Hankook RS3s (Discount Tire)
Brakes: Project Mu HC800 (Vendor CSGMike)
Alignment: (Private)
FR (Camber -1.5 - Toe Out -.05)
FL (Camber -1.5 - Toe Out -.05)
RL (Camber -1.3 - Toe In -.08)
RR(Camber -1.3 - Toe In -.08)
AutoX Video: (Forward to 11m:19seconds)

Final Thoughts:
In all honesty if you are strapped for cash, I would not even consider doing more than this, as it is completely competitive in local clubs for 1-3rd place in class. I have had 4 events and so far its even good for competing with your STX competition. All you need is some seat time to improve.

The car feels excellent, on the street and autocross. Very impressed.
It's a setup I stand behind for daily driving and driving right to any event no drama. (Brake pads are totally optional as they made fractional difference for me in performance overall)

However I doubt this would be competitive on a national level but, I have yet to try.

Might be using this as my alignment setup as well.

[edj]

re: the FR-S/BRZ crash bolts

the Twins come with two different sized bolts to hold the steering knuckle to the strut.
(14mm and 16mm?).

the factory authorized crash bolt is the 14mm bolt. all you are doing is replacing
the larger OEM bolt with the smaller one. so you end up with two 14mm bolts.

There should be no worries about the crash bolt being strong enough.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by edj

re: the FR-S/BRZ crash bolts

the Twins come with two different sized bolts to hold the steering knuckle to the strut.
(14mm and 16mm?).

the factory authorized crash bolt is the 14mm bolt. all you are doing is replacing
the larger OEM bolt with the smaller one. so you end up with two 14mm bolts.

There should be no worries about the crash bolt being strong enough.

Whiteline and SPC claim the bottom hole is more critical for load bearing.
Sheering the top bolt should be not a major concern. As long as they are installed properly and torqued I don't see how it is much more different than the OEM bolt. I would be more worried about small allen head lock nuts on camber plates slipping over that strut bolts.

[DylanFRS]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I would be more worried about small allen head lock nuts on camber plates slipping over that strut bolts.

Hahaha... for sure...

Everyone who is racing will soon be running both the crash bolts and top hats anyways. The real question is, how did you get 1.5* of camber out of them Dezoris?

[Kido1986]

I need to recheck for clarification but I believe the lastest Fastrack clarified that you may use Tophats OR Bolts. Not both

[Kido1986]

F. Strut-type suspensions may adjust camber using one of the following two options:
1. Adjustable camber plates may be installed at the top of the strut and/or the original upper mounting holes
may be slotted. The drilling of holes in order to perform the installation is permitted. The center clearance hole
may not be modified. Any type of bearing or bushing may be used in the adjustable camber plate attachment to
the strut. The installation may incorporate an alternate upper spring perch/seat and/or mounting block (bearing
mount). The spring’s upper mounting position relative to the chassis, and along the strut shaft centerline, must
not be higher relative to the chassis than the standard part (ie, the camber plate may not result in a lower ride
height). Caster changes resulting from the use of camber plates are permitted.
2. Camber bolts may be installed and one bolt’s mounting point(s) on the strut’s lower integral mounting bracket
may be slotted. Caster changes as a result are permitted.

To me, that reads as one OR the other.

[DylanFRS]

I was reading that as "camber bolts" being defined as aftermarket. Technically the crash bolts are just there in case of a suspension problem after an accident. So the car is 100% OEM with them in right? Thus the only mod from stock would be the upper camber plates.

I think it is worth talking about because it is not completely clear to me. :happy0180:

[TRev]

Originally Posted by DylanFRS

I was reading that as "camber bolts" being defined as aftermarket. Technically the crash bolts are just there in case of a suspension problem after an accident. So the car is 100% OEM with them in right? Thus the only mod from stock would be the upper camber plates.

I think it is worth talking about because it is not completely clear to me. :happy0180:

This is the way I interpreted as well.

[Biggins]

Perhaps it is not too relevant, but could we also add what popular aftermarket rims/wheels are available and legal for the class?

I had a bear of a time finding 17x7 42-54 rims last year, so I'm still running the OEM rims. I still have not pulled the trigger, but I assume the Enkei and Kosei options are best?

[edj]

The Enkei RPF1 wheels are your first (and really only) option.

The Kosei wheels are OK but if you are putting any tire on them wider
than a 225 then you will need a 1/4" spacer on the front wheels and
now you need longer lug bolts to get the lug nuts to fit properly.

[Sccabrz192]

Motegi Tracklites are also an option.