04-01-2017, 03:43 PM | #85 | ||
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I'm covering all bases by purchasing a new clutch master and slave, if anything to completely attempt to rule though out. ACT (my clutch manufacturer) and I have been in dialogues for a few weeks now since the release bearing issue. Should it come to it, I can probably get a replacement pressure plate sent to me. We'll see.
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04-01-2017, 04:21 PM | #86 | |
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Meanwhile, I'll continue my literature search ........ just after my looooong Saturday nap (I reckon Gonzaga can win the game without me .... ) humfrz |
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04-01-2017, 06:16 PM | #87 | |
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Maybe you can just push back on level ground. I used a 2-foot half-inch dowel and a plastic mallet. stick the dowel between the big resonator and the air box. It's kinda tricky because it's a shallow angle on the damper but I think there's enough oomph to tap the rotating assembly rearward.
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04-21-2017, 11:24 PM | #89 | |
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I actually, FINALLY have some time tomorrow to replace the clutch master and secondary, as I had to order the crush washers for the banjo connection to the secondary, since apparently you shouldn't reuse those. My thoughts are leaning more towards hydraulic than pressure plate at the moment just due to some more time assessing the issue. Did an autocross with it like this, so I think after that day I had decided it's most likely to be the hydraulic system rather than mechanical. After redlining on the course for a second or so just before the finish, it would take the system a bit longer than normal to return to a proper catch point. My thought on that is the fluid needing time to reset or to be actuated/used more than it being the pressure plate's fingers. My theories are weird, but between the fluid system, and pressure plate, I'm hoping it'll be fixed after replacing the clutch hydraulic system. I still haven't heard back from ACT's engineers, so who knows...
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04-21-2017, 11:31 PM | #90 | |
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So the engine's ok?
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04-21-2017, 11:34 PM | #91 | |
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As far as I can tell, it ain't walkin'.
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04-22-2017, 05:07 PM | #92 |
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UPDATE!!
So I've got good news and bad news. Good news: It's extremely easy to replace the clutch's hydraulic system. I puttered around and still got it done in about an hour. Bad news: My issue still exists. Gonna be fun explaining it again to ACT in order to get a warrantied pressure plate, or even a free upgrade (probably not happening). But hey, at least we marked off that check box, right?
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04-23-2017, 06:27 PM | #93 |
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fingers crossed
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05-05-2017, 10:39 AM | #94 |
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This does not make me happy.
I have a sound like this as well. Just had a new flywheel, pressure plate and clutch put in. Thought it was a bearing going bad on a pulley or something (all stock) New tests to be done. I use ACT as well. |
06-05-2017, 10:50 AM | #95 |
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Ok.
Good news everyone! Everything is fixed. Everything. I spent this passed Saturday working on the clutch, and lo and behold, things are now working as intended. After pulling the trans, I realized my release bearing retention clips had snapped off (found one while taking the undertrays off, the other was still in the bell housing). That's right, BOTH were broken, and my TOB was just loosely sitting on the input shaft. No wonder I was having some major shifting issues these passed few months. Those clips were brand new, by the way, same with the TOB, though the bearing was ACT's. I installed a new TOB and new clips, this time all OEM because I didn't think this part of the system would be well and fucked like it was, so I never ordered replacements. I had to run to a dealership to get those. Oh well. I ordered Velox's billet aluminum fork and pivot because I didn't wanna have to tear into everything again and the stock stuff is now worn passed what I would consider "good". Those installed well and fit just fine. Threw on the new pressure plate while taking note of some slight glazing on the flywheel, but more on the old PP (FW is still good, PP is kinda not great as you'll see below). Torqued the new PP on, then buttoned everything up after a full greasing of all contact points, just like last time. (Note I did take 1000 grit sandpaper to the input shaft due to the roughness caused by a TOB not connected to the fork. It wasn't terrible, just not smooth, so the sanding helped a bit.) The car now shifts amazingly, at least it feels like new now that I'm used to it shifting like shit and any RPM over 4k was a shifting nightmare. Things just...work now. The relief is staggering. Anyway, here are the pictures I took. Both clips broken in the bottom of the bell housing and tons of wear can be seen on the TOB where the fork contacts it. The fork obviously is well worn as well. Old PP. The glazing/heat spots on the old PP. Torquing the new one on. Velox billet aluminum fork and pivot, along with OEM clips and bearing installed and greased. All in all. One VERY happy driver. "I've mended something!" Thanks for all the support guys ( @Ultramaroon and @humfrz), and fingers crossed, this shit better stay fixed for a few years at least.
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06-05-2017, 12:39 PM | #96 |
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Excellent!
Great pics too. I noticed in your first photo of your transmission there doesn't appear to be any grease on the input shaft cover (snout, whatever). Nor does the bushing on the TOB appear to be badly worn. I can still clearly see the shoulders on the inside diameter. Was it not lubricated at all? I ask because I wonder whether or not that part of the system was designed to actually be lubed. I see no melted grease in the bell housing underneath the fork. Mine was/is lubed. Perhaps there was miscommunication between engineering and the production plant? Dunno. Just curious. Congrats, man! Looks like you had a heluva weekend.
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06-05-2017, 01:53 PM | #97 | |
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I think once the tob broke free from the fork, the fork itself vibrated around so much it worked all the grease out of the contact surfaces. Not entirely sure though. Been using shin-etsu grease for everything. So I'm hoping that wasn't the issue. Any insights as to that?
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06-05-2017, 03:39 PM | #98 |
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I don't think so. No insights. Just poking around for info, myself.
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