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Old 06-23-2015, 10:24 AM   #15
King Tut
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I would clock that turbo center section so that the oil feed and drain are more perpendicular to the ground.
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:30 AM   #16
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Much respect, this is the definition of DIY!
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Tut View Post
I would clock that turbo center section so that the oil feed and drain are more perpendicular to the ground.
Thank you for the feedback. I will look at doing this before the engine goes in the car
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:33 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by WhiteFRS69 View Post
why you going with an FRS bumper over the BRZ????
And it's fun confusing people lol. I think I should call this my BR-S, rather than BRZ. I'm not loyal to either manufacturer lol.
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:37 PM   #19
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I had the same turbo kit on my car for about 2500 miles now, doesn't drive my car as much anyways the fitment is right on. no gap no leaks but the only problem was they send me a 50 trim snail instead of a 60 trim but this thing spool super quick.
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:06 PM   #20
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So in bolting up the engine subframe the holes on the side that took the impact are about 1/4" off. I have found the main culprit - as the frame got bent a little bit on the rear mounts of the subframe. Now it's time to re-construct my DIY frame puller and get that sucker moved forwards! I'll post some pics later of the current position and the new position after the pull.

Nice to hear another person has the same turbo kit. Mine is the .60 trim and I'm looking forward to driving it. I'll likely upgrade to a bigger turbo down the line, but this seemed like a good (cheap) place to start.
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:32 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboBRZ View Post
So in bolting up the engine subframe the holes on the side that took the impact are about 1/4" off. I have found the main culprit - as the frame got bent a little bit on the rear mounts of the subframe. Now it's time to re-construct my DIY frame puller and get that sucker moved forwards! I'll post some pics later of the current position and the new position after the pull.

Nice to hear another person has the same turbo kit. Mine is the .60 trim and I'm looking forward to driving it. I'll likely upgrade to a bigger turbo down the line, but this seemed like a good (cheap) place to start.
This is exactly what I was going to do originally. I planned on getting the kit without the turbo and wastegate though and just sourcing my own.
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:44 PM   #22
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This rebuild looks good, keep up the good work.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:08 AM   #23
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It was really hard to get a photo of the engine sub frame being off alignment, but I did the best I could. I forgot to do the "after" photo, but the holes do lign up now after a 10,000lbs frame pull. I actually broke one of my ratcheting straps (the actual locking/tightening mechanism) during the pull lol!

What you're going to see in the photos is #1 the hole being off position. #2 the point on the frame that was bent that I strapped into for frame pulling. #3 how I pulled the frame. #4 drilling out the new frame rails. #5 a close-up of the drill holes. #6 - welding it back together.

I am still in the process of welding - just completed the driver side - and after this I will be doing the core support. Once that's done I will be grinding down all the welds, applying the auto-body seam sealer (rubberized caulk-like stuff), and in 2 days when my paint gets here it will get a new coat of 02C blue pearl. I'll post some more pics of the welds ground down and the rubberized sealer when I'm done!











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Old 06-24-2015, 11:42 AM   #24
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major props on doing all this yourself!!
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:40 PM   #25
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Today I ground down the welds on both sides of the car, then sprayed the frame rails with a rubberized undercoat. After all the welding/grinding/undercoating is done of all parts (core support & frame rail braces) I will apply the 3M seam sealer before applying a base coat of paint. Then the engine goes back in.

Nice enough today my new Deatschwerks fuel pump arrived along with my Innovate LC-2, Omni 4 bar map sensor and Tosh86 single-piece aluminum driveshaft. This thing is seriously light weight! I haven't pulled the factory driveshaft yet - that will be on my list tomorrow.

In just a few days time (depending on when the paint arrives) the engine will go back into her rightful home.





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Old 06-25-2015, 09:18 AM   #26
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awesome stuff! I picked up a salvaged BRZ as well for $10k though mine didn't need any frame work
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:42 AM   #27
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awesome stuff! I picked up a salvaged BRZ as well for $10k though mine didn't need any frame work
Yeah, I bought a black BRZ (salvaged) at auction for $2k less that didn't need any frame work as well. Now I know what (exactly) to look for in the photos to make sure I never buy another car with damage to this extent. I would never make a dime on this car if I went to sell it, so it's perfect that it will become my daily driver lol.
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:12 PM   #28
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This is impressive; normally I would poo-poo someone for putting a Chinabay turbo kit on their car but you're totally reconstructing that car and turbocharging it on the cheap; nothing wrong with cheap speed in this case!
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