01-25-2019, 01:39 PM | #323 |
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It is all a matter of preference at some point. I sadly cannot speak for AutoX as I have never done any, but for track duty, I've seen stiff springs and softer bar work better in our chassis. So much so that the guy who won my class this year in time attack was running no front bar at all (stock FA20, it was just preference, nothing required it to be removed). He is using 10k springs up front. A little added bonus is that stiffer springs are required if you have high aero, so there's also that. Anyways, this is a neat swap, glad to see you've pulled it off.
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01-26-2019, 12:26 PM | #324 |
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I think I am alone and maybe for good reason? I got into 4x4 suspension really hard awhile ago and maybe it's just so different on a car that I don't understand?
My thoughts are: Appropriate size sway, ideally adjustable so you can get it perfect. Appropriate rate springs, ideally the main function to set ride height Adjustable valving on the shocks to set appropriate compression and rebound. I think making the springs do the work of the sway would work but I think it's give and take. Your now siffer springs will have an effect on ride quality. Maybe you can soften the valving but it's still going to have more springy feeling. Bouncy. IMO make the: Sway control side to side motion Springs control ride height (this is tricky because it effects other things) Valving controls compression/ rebound |
01-26-2019, 01:21 PM | #325 |
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I'm just enjoying witnessing all the creative work. Thanks for continuing to share both setbacks and progress.
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02-11-2019, 10:44 AM | #326 |
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Small update. I really dislike wiring,, what a pain in the ass.
Motor harness should be done and tied to chassis less AC pressure switch. Can’t really do that until I finish AC lines. It’s held together with zip ties for the moment as I don’t want to wrap it in tape and loom then rip it apart again if there’s an issue . Will wait until motor runs. Pulled most of dash out. Mounted an Aero-Force OBDII gauge to monitor some of the LFX functions. Still need to figure out what to do for oil pressure. You may have seen my other thread regarding the de-pinning of the PCM plugs. Never did figure out how to get it to work. I opted to trace all of the wires for the AC1, Injector driver and the neutral switch, tag them, cut them about 10” from the firewall, put double heat shrink on the end and put a loom over them. They tuck out of sight so should be ok for now. Ran pedal wires. Up next, need to run power to dash for Collins translator and install it. I’m not going to try to De-pin the PCM plugs so I’ll splice it in. Need to install Compressor switch in dash and run power. Will also need to mount fixed thermostat into evaporator to monitor freeze up. Once these last two things are done dash can go back together. Also got in new rims and mounted 285/30/18 tires. They poke pretty good (18x10 +10). I did order some cheap flares from ebay but they don’t really fit well. Ordered a set from ABW Motorsports out of the UK, so I’m waiting for them to arrive. They’re old school 934ish looking. I’m keeping my fingers crossed I won’t have a major rework on them. I will end up painting them to match the body,, so I’ll go back and do the hood scoop as well.
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02-11-2019, 10:52 AM | #327 |
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How to de-pin for the canbus translator
[ame="http://youtu.be/0gm3DYVS5iA?t=946"]http://youtu.be/0gm3DYVS5iA?t=946[/ame]
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02-11-2019, 01:22 PM | #328 |
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Dam Dustin,,, you make that look easy. LOL
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02-11-2019, 01:22 PM | #329 | |
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Quote:
Period.
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03-03-2019, 02:11 PM | #330 |
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Work continues. Finished wiring up AC power. I added a new switch to the AC panel for compressor power. It runs to the old school fixed temperature thermostat I installed in to the evaporator. I messed with the extra evaporator I had to figure out how to run the probe. I had to cut a small hole in the plastic case to insert the probe, then attached it to the cased with screws and caulk. Caulked the rest of the hole as well. Power then runs too relay in Current Performance fuse box,, from there to AC pressure switch, then to compressor. Hope this works,,, I’ve got to have AC to make the car practical. Only thing I’m afraid of is idle issues when it’s on and as I spend a lot of time in traffic,, so it may be an issue. We’ll see. I guess worst case is have the tuner up the idle a bit.
Installed Colin’s module. With the issues trying to de-pin the connector, I opted just to splice it in. Was going to reinstall the dash but think I’ll wait until its running. Would hate to have to pull it apart again. Mocked up rear flares. I will say the fitment against the body is really good. Still not sure how much to cut the fender but I think I’ll SWAG it for now. Still need to install the new Koni’s on the rear so I can verify travel then. For any of you guys that have cut the fenders,,, and issues cutting into the bumpers?? Next up, put motor in to determine new battery to starter cable length and splice in solenoid wire. Also need charge old battery so I can test all of the circuits when ignition is on as well as starter. Last of the wiring will be an inertia switch for the fuel pump. With the way it’s wired now I want it to shut off in an accident.
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03-04-2019, 09:24 AM | #331 |
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No issues with cutting anything, just make sure to cut as much as possible and weld the rear shut.
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03-04-2019, 10:35 AM | #332 | |
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Quote:
Thanks Dustin,,, I'd like to cut the fenders and bumpers with the same arc as the original fender opening,, just up a couple inches. I know tis will work in the rear,, we'll see in the front.
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03-04-2019, 10:11 PM | #333 | |
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Have you seen Gerald’s AC controller?
http://www.geraldjustprojects.com/pr...ler-manual-ac/ When he built mine, I had him program in another input so that I could turn the AC compressor on independently of the Climate control panel. The supercharger on my car is using the AC compressor to effectively “super cool” the coolant that cools the air on the discharge of the supercharger. The chiller system is really efficient and works quite a bit better than a standard Air to water system. Quote:
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03-05-2019, 01:13 PM | #334 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for the link,,, if this doesn't work I'll look into it!
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03-24-2019, 05:16 PM | #335 |
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Work continues… put the motor back in to finish up some wiring odds and ends. This is the first time it’s been back in since finishing up the sway bar mounts. I was a bit concerned that it’d rub the oil pan but it clears,,, by a whole 1/8”.
Got the inertia switch mounted roughly where the fuel controller was,, removed the old fuel controller. Hope that doesn’t come back to bite me later LOL. Put a flip top plug cover in the side panel so the inertia switch can be reset if needed. I will say this,,, when the key is on, it pumps a bunch of fuel,, not just the dribble and stop as it used to. I’ve also been finishing, verifying and documenting the wiring. At my age,,, I can’t remember what I had for lunch yesterday so this will help down the road if need be,, and the next owner when the time comes. I do believe wiring is complete. Thank God! Tested the AC setup a bit. The new switch powers the AC relay correctly and the blower works fine. This just might work. Still need to make hoses though. What’s next,, after swapping the water pipe from the back of the motor to the radiator (made room for PCM), I need to rework the pipes and hoses to the heater core. I ordered the heater hard pipes from the Caddy CTS which should work with the radiator pipe I have. May need a few hoses to go with it I’ll know better when it gets here. It’ll be tight in there with the AC connections to the firewall. I also need to rework the surge tank to the radiator hard pipe. Once that’s done, I need to pull the motor and put the new clutch in, mount the crank pulley and final seal and install of oil pan. Then try to start. I almost hate to say this but it’s getting close,,, as a sidebar I’m just 4 months shy of a two year build. It’s funny,,, told my wife in the beginning it would take 6-9 months,,, not that she ever brings that up.
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03-31-2019, 05:26 PM | #336 |
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Got the CTS heater pipe in yesterday. Pic below shows the difference between it (short one) and the Camaro pipe. Needed to get a couple of 90 degree hoses to splice in with what I had and everything went in pretty well. The way it loops, it leaves some room for the AC hoses,, not a lot but some.
I need to weld in a bung on the pipe that runs from the back of the motor to connect to surge tank, so I opted to install everything so I know exactly where there’s room. Found a couple off issues in doing that: This is 10 lb of stuff in a 5lb bag. Dear god how do you guys do it with a V8…. Fuel line from E85 sensor is too short when the engine harness is installed Surge tank need to be tucked in closer to shock tower to keep hose from laying on Camaro PCM (cut and weld). Looking to route AC lines. Biggest issue is the dryer,,, just not a lot of room for it. I want it on the passenger side so it looks like it’ll be mounted to the cold air box just below the catch can. Both AC lines that run to/from the fire wall will run down from the firewall expansion valve, forward next to the motor on the passenger side (next to motor mount) then one to the dryer, the other around the front of the motor to the left side mounted compressor. Didn’t estimate the hose lengths very well,, will need to order more and a couple of more fittings. Get these things done and all of the plumbing is complete. As a sidebar,,, I ordered one of those flip top arm rests years ago. Wanted to install it and add a cup holder in front of it. For the life of me I can’t find that fricking arm rest anywhere,, but did start on the cup holder mode it out of fiberglass. The nice thing is it’s 5” deep and should keep my coffee cup out of the way.
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