Recommendation for Cordless Impact Wrench?

[iLaw]

Hey all,

I'm looking for recommendations on a good cordless/battery powered impact wrench that I can use to loosen and tighten lug nuts (and potentially other bolts) on my car. Most of my tools are for 1/2" drive, so I'd prefer one that uses that.

I live in a condo, so air powered or corded isn't really an option, as power outlets aren't readily available in the parking garage. Any recommendations? What should I be looking for? Is there anything else I should also consider when buying an impact wrench (accessories etc.)?

Thanks in advance!

[jvincent]

I picked up a Craftsman from Sears last year that uses a 19.2v Li-Ion battery. Plenty of torque for lug nuts and also handled the subframe bolts with ease.

[vroom4]

I've used damn near every brand, they are all pretty good. The Milwaukee and kobalt are the best bang for the buck but whatever you can find on sale will be good....not Hf

[PNW FRS]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I picked up a Craftsman from Sears last year that uses a 19.2v Li-Ion battery. Plenty of torque for lug nuts and also handled the subframe bolts with ease.

Sears had the Craftsman on sale about month ago... Picked it up for under $90

[Whatabouteggs]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I picked up a Craftsman from Sears last year that uses a 19.2v Li-Ion battery. Plenty of torque for lug nuts and also handled the subframe bolts with ease.

I got the 3/8 craftsman with the 18v Nicad. Apparently they do sell Li packs that fit as well, but in retrospect I should have gone with 1/2".

[cnk]

Milwaukee FUEL M18 model 2763 is what I would recommend and use. 1100 lb-ft of torque for removing nuts and 700 lb-ft of torque for fastening. I pretty much don't even start up my compressor any more after getting this impact.

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by Whatabouteggs

I got the 3/8 craftsman with the 18v Nicad. Apparently they do sell Li packs that fit as well, but in retrospect I should have gone with 1/2".

I have the 1/2 inch one. I didn't think the 3/8 would have enough torque.

[Whatabouteggs]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I have the 1/2 inch one. I didn't think the 3/8 would have enough torque.

It does the trick but it seems underpowered. I might get a Li and see if that helps. Or swap the pack with a harbor freight one, they make 20v.

[CoupedUpSubie]

I have the 3/8" Milwaukee fuel impact. It can do 200 ft-lbs of torque. Plenty for lug nuts and most other applications. You don't need anything crazy like 700 ft-lbs. everything on a car can be torqued with a 1/2" torque wrench(normally calibrated upto 150 ft-lbs).

[cnk]

Originally Posted by CoupedUpSubie

I have the 3/8" Milwaukee fuel impact. It can do 200 ft-lbs of torque. Plenty for lug nuts and most other applications. You don't need anything crazy like 700 ft-lbs. everything on a car can be torqued with a 1/2" torque wrench(normally calibrated upto 150 ft-lbs).

You should never torque anything with an impact, only a torque wrench. Also, just because you torque something to 150 doesn't mean that it will only take 150 to remove it. Factor in time, rust, etc. and it can take a lot more to remove. I have the M12 Fuel 3/8", m18 Fuel 3/8", and the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque and there are some things that you just need the high torque impact for such as axle nuts or crankshaft bolts (on Honda cars especially). After last winter, the M18 3/8" wouldn't take the lugs off, but the high torque took them off without issue. That's after a winter with lots of snow and salted roads.

Go read up on the garagejournal.com forums and you'll see all reviews on any impact you want.

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[CoupedUpSubie]

Originally Posted by cnk

You should never torque anything with an impact, only a torque wrench. Also, just because you torque something to 150 doesn't mean that it will only take 150 to remove it. Factor in time, rust, etc. and it can take a lot more to remove. I have the M12 Fuel 3/8", m18 Fuel 3/8", and the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque and there are some things that you just need the high torque impact for such as axle nuts or crankshaft bolts (on Honda cars especially). After last winter, the M18 3/8" wouldn't take the lugs off, but the high torque took them off without issue. That's after a winter with lots of snow and salted roads.

Go read up on the garagejournal.com forums and you'll see all reviews on any impact you want.

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I never said anything about torquing fasteners with an impact. As for your 3/8" M18 not removing your lug nuts after a winter of driving, I think you need a new one. Either that or you never rotated your tires and ensured the threads were clean. Our cars call for 89 ft-lbs if I remember correctly.

The newer m18 3/8" impact is good for most applications that your average car owner would do.

I do know that torquing something to 150 ft-lbs will result in needing more then that amount of torque to remove it, I have experienced this more then enough times from Maine winters and working on ships.

If you have a stubborn bolt or nut a penetrating fluid followed by a proper breaker bar is the correct way to remove it. Grabbing a highly over powered impact for the job will result in stripped threads.

As for having 1/2" drive tools already I recommend getting an adapter to go from 3/8 to 1/2. The nice thing about 3/8 is the sockets are usually slightly slimmer and shorter allowing easier access.

[cnk]

Originally Posted by CoupedUpSubie

I never said anything about torquing fasteners with an impact. As for your 3/8" M18 not removing your lug nuts after a winter of driving, I think you need a new one. Either that or you never rotated your tires and ensured the threads were clean. Our cars call for 89 ft-lbs if I remember correctly.

The newer m18 3/8" impact is good for most applications that your average car owner would do.

I do know that torquing something to 150 ft-lbs will result in needing more then that amount of torque to remove it, I have experienced this more then enough times from Maine winters and working on ships.

If you have a stubborn bolt or nut a penetrating fluid followed by a proper breaker bar is the correct way to remove it. Grabbing a highly over powered impact for the job will result in stripped threads.

As for having 1/2" drive tools already I recommend getting an adapter to go from 3/8 to 1/2. The nice thing about 3/8 is the sockets are usually slightly slimmer and shorter allowing easier access.

I swap from winter and summer rims/tires every year so no chance of not rotating. My experience with the M18 FUEL 3/8" is different from your experience although in line with what others have experienced on GJ.

I use the M12 FUEL 3/8" for small tight spaces and the HTIW (high torque impact wrench) for everything else. There are multiple settings on all of the Fuel impacts so not much chance of stripping anything. And yes, if an impact won't loosen something then the breaker bar and penetrating oil comes out. . .followed by a torch if all else fails.

My point is, why bother with the regular M18 FUEL 3/8" when you can get the 1/2" model instead and have the flexibility to use a lower setting. The physical size of both M18 models is negligible and you can use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter if you want.

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[Draco-REX]

You can pry my Dewalt cordless impact from my cold dead hands. It has proven very helpful for all sorts of work. Even gently getting seized bolts loose without snapping them. Best tool purchase I ever made.

[Briankbot]

I myself have a Milwaukee. Check out the warranty on the gun and batteries compared to other brands. I remember being pretty impressed with the Milwaukee warranty at the time of purchase. Its not all about ft/lbs...though if you ever want to do a wheel bearing or axle etc (im not sure the torque specs on these cars) having extra grunt makes things much much easier...