FIXED: Installed Edelbrock SC. Now car is throwing CELs

[localhost]

Update: I installed the OEM header back on with new gaskets everywhere as well as a new battery. Fuel trims are better than than they were before but still very high. I also got the same 3 CELs as before after about 2 hours of driving since finishing everything up.

Here's another low resolution datalog: https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/nov-25-drive

As before, above 4500RPM everything is looking great. Its only below that the fuel trims are way off.

I have no idea what to try anymore...

[Ultramaroon]

Somebody shoot down my theory. I still think that it's an intake manifold leak (hose blown off) because off boost, there is a vacuum so extra air is getting sucked in, bypassing the MAF. On boost, more airflow is measured than is actually used because now it's blowing out the same hole.

[localhost]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Somebody shoot down my theory. I still think that it's an intake manifold leak (hose blown off) because off boost, there is a vacuum so extra air is getting sucked in, bypassing the MAF. On boost, more airflow is measured than is actually used because now it's blowing out the same hole.

None of the hoses on the intake side are blown off. I did a fairly thorough visual inspection of the engine bay yesterday as I was replacing the header and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Well i was thinking the recirculation valve might be messed up.


Maybe it has a leak and when the supercharger starts pulling a lot of air in, the vacuum closes the hole.

Assuming the recirc valve is the infamous bypass valve that seems to kill itself so often on these units, this is definitely a possibility. That said, I'm not sure how likely that is considering this is a brand new unit.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by localhost

Assuming the recirc valve is the infamous bypass valve that seems to kill itself so often on these units, this is definitely a possibility. That said, I'm not sure how likely that is considering this is a brand new unit.

New breaks all the time. Do you hear any hissing? Would that be a thing in this case?

[localhost]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

New breaks all the time. Do you hear any hissing? Would that be a thing in this case?

I haven't really noticed any hissing noises but I also haven't been listening for any so there's a good chance that exists. I'll have to check in the morning.

I'm guessing this (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368) post is the proper check for a broken bypass valve?

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Maybe a packing worm is stuck in it. lol
Did the cats fix it?

It did not, unfortunately. I think there's a strong possibility of a bad bypass actuator though.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by localhost

I haven't really noticed any hissing noises but I also haven't been listening for any so there's a good chance that exists. I'll have to check in the morning.

I'm guessing this (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368) post is the proper check for a broken bypass valve?



It did not, unfortunately. I think there's a strong possibility of a bad bypass actuator though.

Good luck! Looks promising. @BirdTRD

[BirdTRD]

Yup, sounds to me like you have a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere, whether it's the bypass valve or not remains to be seen.
Since the bypass valve is new, odds are it's not the problem, but you should still rule it out and not assume new = good. Re-check ALL the hose connections that were involved with the install, PCV, Evap, brake booster, etc. Once those are all verified to be good, you're left with the intake manifold gaskets because... a vacuum leak is a vacuum leak.

[localhost]

I'm not 100% sure whether I did the test correctly but I pinched the only hose (that looked like a pcv hose) coming from the back of the SC with a pair of pliers but nothing changed. I couldn't really hear any hissing over the noise of the engine though. I held it pinched for about 2-3 seconds and the engine idle didn't change noticeably. See the first photo for the hose I pinched.



The second photo is of the 3 hoses onto the SC itself. The bottom hose (RH PCV) doesn't have a clamp on it because there wasn't enough space to fit one in there. I only had enough space to clamp the middle brake booster line. The instructions also didn't specify whether those hoses needed to be clamped so I didn't clamp the bottommost one. Maybe that's where the leak is?

[BirdTRD]

The first pic is the bypass valve hose. If the valve does not move from the open position (pulled in due to vacuum) when you pinch the hose, then it is working correctly and not leaking.
As for not having a clamp on the PCV hose, I would put one on, but I think it was a pretty snug fit so I doubt if that's your issue.
You also need to look at the other end of these 3 hoses to make sure they are still connected, especially at the evap Solenoid (known to pop off from there), so from the SC nose to the evap solenoid and from the evap solenoid to the hard line.

[localhost]

I checked the evap solenoid and both hoses that connect to it are still on snugly. Didn't notice anything off there. I also checked the hose which connects to the hard line and that is on there nice and tight as well.

The MAP sensor does report about 18 to 19 inHg at idle fully warmed up (idle around 850rpm) so it does seem to be making and keeping vacuum reasonably well (unless I'm misinterpreting the data).

Could a damaged MAF sensor cause this? When I was installing the MAF sensor onto the new housing, I had to fight with it for quite some time to get it to seat in correctly. Well, I fought with it until a friend showed me that putting some water on the o-ring makes the sensor slide in smoothly... yay inexperience.

Photo of the evap solenoid's hose connections:

[itsaBRZ]

I've been having the same codes as OP, P0171, P1170 and P117B after having this kit installed for 2 months. I replaced the bypass actuator valve and that fixed some hesitation, but the codes persisted.

I have smoke tested all vacuum lines and exhaust and found no leaks. I'm running the stock headers with the CARB tune just an FYI. As crazy as this sounds, replacing the front O2 sensor resolved the P1170 and P117B issues... this part wasn't even touched during the install and worked prior to installing the sc.

I'm now getting CEL codes of P0171 and P050A ONLY during cold starts. I had a really tough time putting my MAF sensor in during the install as well. I have since found out that Edelbrock revised this housing part for newer kits. I am very inclined to think that we both damaged our MAF sensor by forcing it in, however I am not willing to gamble $450 on a part that may not fix this issue. Does anyone know how to check if the MAF sensor is working without it actually throwing the specific CEL for it malfunctioning?

Thanks and any help is appreciated.

[localhost]

Originally Posted by itsaBRZ

I've been having the same codes as OP, P0171, P1170 and P117B after having this kit installed for 2 months. I replaced the bypass actuator valve and that fixed some hesitation, but the codes persisted.

I have smoke tested all vacuum lines and exhaust and found no leaks. I'm running the stock headers with the CARB tune just an FYI. As crazy as this sounds, replacing the front O2 sensor resolved the P1170 and P117B issues... this part wasn't even touched during the install and worked prior to installing the sc.

I'm now getting CEL codes of P0171 and P050A ONLY during cold starts. I had a really tough time putting my MAF sensor in during the install as well. I have since found out that Edelbrock revised this housing part for newer kits. I am very inclined to think that we both damaged our MAF sensor by forcing it in, however I am not willing to gamble $450 on a part that may not fix this issue. Does anyone know how to check if the MAF sensor is working without it actually throwing the specific CEL for it malfunctioning?

Thanks and any help is appreciated.

I'm off to buy a can of MAF cleaner to see if its just a clogged/dirty MAF. If not, I will try to get my hands on a friend's MAF sensor and see if that fixes it.

EDIT: Here's a pre-cleaning datalog. I also added the MAF output and O2 sensor output. O2 sensor looks a little weird to me (looks like its tending to read rich?), but I don't know enough to say that confidently. https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/pre-ma...0&data=3-5-7-8

MAF sensor before cleaning (I noticed a little nick in the housing):

[localhost]

I cleaned the MAF sensor, reset the CELs and went for a drive. Didn't look like it fixed anything though. CEL isn't on yet, but I'm sure it'll come back within the next day. Fuel trims are still whack - ~13.3% at idle, but jumps up to nearly 40% with even the slightest throttle. Probably goes to 0 above 4500rpm but with a boatload of snow on the ground, testing that isn't the easiest.

Edit: jiggling the wires and tapping lightly on the sensor itself didn't do anything. So at least the electrical connections seem solid.

[Ultramaroon]

Can't you just sample your maf voltage?