09-09-2013, 09:33 AM | #43 |
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i just did my install this weekend on my FRS, here r some tidbits for you guys who are gonna go the DIY route
1) did not take wheels off 2) did not use jack/crank etc. 3) did not drill 3rd hole note: front doesnt seem to need it but the back seem like they would be more stable with the drilling follow all instructions and yes, clean and prep the are before you install as there will be a lot of dirt in the wheel well and the side of the car! edit- has anyone had any luck using an angle drill to get in there without tire removal? |
09-10-2013, 01:38 AM | #46 |
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If you're absolutely intent on not removing the wheels, but need to make the third hole then I have an idea.
Try using a lighter/torch and heat up the end of a hanger/nail/etc and use it to melt a hole. This should work reasonably well.
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09-10-2013, 09:46 AM | #47 |
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interesting, how thick is the plastic we are suppose to drill through?
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09-10-2013, 01:38 PM | #48 |
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Roughly between a 1/16" and an 1/8" or so? Really not sure though, that's a guesstimate.
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09-10-2013, 02:34 PM | #49 |
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09-10-2013, 10:41 PM | #50 |
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How long is it taking you guys to just remove the wheels?
This isn't rocket science, take the wheels off, drill the holes, put the flaps on, put the wheels back on. Sheesh. |
09-11-2013, 09:47 AM | #51 |
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rocket science is trying to figure out how to install WITHOUT taking the wheel off my friend
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09-14-2013, 07:11 PM | #52 | |
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Quote:
Just did mine today, one hour including removal and re-installation of both rear wheels. The fronts just require moving the steering to each lock successively for the last push rivet. BTW the four holes you need to drill, one in each fender liner, don't need to be exactly at 90 degrees. You're not building a fancy cabinet, you're pushing an expanding plastic rivet into a plastic hole made in material about 1/8 inch thick. The hole doesn't have to be square on nor does it need to be exactly round, especially if you use a 5/16 bit instead of 8 mm. Just angle the drill enough to make sure you get the center of the hole drilled in the liner centered in the mounting hole in the flap. Rear wheels have to come off to do the job right. There's not really enough room between the caliper and the fender liner, let alone the tire. Don't leave that rivet out as it stops the flap twisting in the airflow. Note the aero slot in each of the rear flaps to reduce this torque. |
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09-14-2013, 07:22 PM | #53 |
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so i used double sided tape on mine like @abutterman suggested and mine are still holding perfectly fine. installed them back in february.
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09-15-2013, 02:06 PM | #54 | |
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Quote:
need to remove my tires to get the backs |
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09-15-2013, 11:19 PM | #55 |
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I installed mine yesterday.
I only removed the rear tires and lifted the car. I just turned the fronts. I used a drill bit without a drill. Simply turn the drill bit by hand. The plastic is so soft it takes 20 seconds to go through it by hand. Over all about 30 min to install all 4. Also paid $49 shipped for the set from a Toyota dealer on eBay. |
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09-15-2013, 11:48 PM | #56 |
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Thanks for the DIY, always helpful with real pics and real instructions and your's were great.
Mine got installed today.
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flaps, guard, mud, mudflaps, rally armor |
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