SCCA T4 Build thread

[AreteAuto]

Always nice to hear someone knows that ride height is not directly correlated to body roll. Seems like quite a raise, though, a whole inch. Interested to hear the feedback.

[captain awesome]

TCE Tarmac 2s recommend dropping only an inch from stock height for the same reason. With a roll center kit you can go more, but honestly I have found it not necessary and am planning to remove the RC kit completely. I had started mine about 2" lower than stock originally, but since switching to 1" I have found the compliance to be more agreeable. It's also nice not scraping as much, and allows the rear sway bar to not lift the rear wheel as much in certain scenarios since you will get better droop travel.



I would love to also see data on removing the fiber cover behind the metal pan.

[AreteAuto]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

TCE Tarmac 2s recommend dropping only an inch from stock height for the same reason. With a roll center kit you can go more, but honestly I have found it not necessary and am planning to remove the RC kit completely. I had started mine about 2" lower than stock originally, but since switching to 1" I have found the compliance to be more agreeable. It's also nice not scraping as much, and allows the rear sway bar to not lift the rear wheel as much in certain scenarios since you will get better droop travel.



I would love to also see data on removing the fiber cover behind the metal pan.

I ran the Whiteline RC kit with Hotchkis springs many years ago, 1 inch drop. It was a wonderful combo. Still recommend keeping the RC kit with the RCE springs, because assuming it is similar to the kit I had, it corrects for approximately 1 inch drop anyway.

At the time, my thoughts were that with RaceSeng camber plates (for both camber and max caster), the handling would be impeccable.
... then someone ran a redlight and I had to start over ��

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by AreteAuto

I ran the Whiteline RC kit with Hotchkis springs many years ago, 1 inch drop. It was a wonderful combo. Still recommend keeping the RC kit with the RCE springs, because assuming it is similar to the kit I had, it corrects for approximately 1 inch drop anyway.

At the time, my thoughts were that with RaceSeng camber plates (for both camber and max caster), the handling would be impeccable.
... then someone ran a redlight and I had to start over ��

It costs vital points to run corrective ball joints or offset bushings with my TT class, so I'd rather just deal with whatever minimal consequences at that height I'll have to deal with. They are recommended for anything under 20mm height drop from stock if I remember correctly which is pretty damn close to where I'm at. Unless there is some crazy data to justify keeping them I really need to kick them to the curb.

[rice_classic]

I feel pretty good about things after the dyno time. I think the new front pipe and injector cleaning was worth it. Especially knowing that the new "skinny" restrictor would cost me 2hp.

I was at 194 prior to the runoffs w/ thick restrictor.

Today, my base line run was 191.4. We tweaked fuel pressure on the DIs, AVCS timing and oddly enough, pulled out a degree of timing and finally peaked at 197.8 whp.

Not bad for stock engine with a drop in filter, 3" exhaust, 100 octane and a 55mm restrictor plate. I'm very much looking forward to getting back on track.

[e21jason]

from the OZ/NZ gr86 regulations

Ride height can be adjusted provided a minimum front ride height of 140mm (the bottom of the front bolt on the brace that goes from the chassis to the front mount of the lower control arm)

and a minimum rear ride height of 295mm (from the bottom of the rear bolt that holds the sub frame)

Ride height measurement shall be taken with the vehicle in ‘Race Trim’ and may be measured at any time during qualifying sessions and/or races. For the purposes of ride height measurement the tyres shall be set to 30 psi and the measurement shall be taken on the official flat pad.

[rice_classic]

Their ride height then, is rules constrained and not necessarily an identified optimum that was adopted en-masse. Nonetheless, it's great information and shows that their min height is basically 1/2" below factory which probably enough of an allowance for corner balancing.

140mm = ~5.5"
295mm = ~11.6"

I just check the right side and my rear is 10.65" and front is ~4.6" So I'm roughly 1.5" below stock ride height and roughly 1" lower than the Aussies.

[rice_classic]

The update on the changes:

They were a net positive from the perspective of feel, compliance and the ability to not get upset when using curbing. In terms of overall lap time I'm not sure since I was at a new track. The only thing I know is that I do need the rear to settle just a bit.

Unfortunately, my weekend was cut short by Miata driver, who licked the stamp and sent it when he shouldn't have, and now I have to visit a frame shop and rebuild the front end and probably a couple suspension components.

It's going to be tough but I'm hoping to have the car race ready in 6 weeks but I may need some help from y'all in find parts quickly so I can start slapping this back together.

[Turfer]

Fuck...That sucks...Couldn't you have driven off the track to into the grass to avoid being rear ended by a clearly superior Miata that was behind you! :sarcasm:

[NoHaveMSG]

Damn that sucks. I don’t think I have many spares that could be useful to you, but you are welcome to what I do have. Post up what you are looking for.


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[rice_classic]

Caution: swear words.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Damn that sucks. I don’t think I have many spares that could be useful to you, but you are welcome to what I do have. Post up what you are looking for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appreciate it man. The list I have so far is:

Front core / radiator support structure
Front crash bar / impact beam
Bumper skin
Headlight driver side
Corner light inserts (Both)
Fenders (both)
Fog inserts
Front plastic Undertray.
Radiator
Rear bumper skin
Brake duct hose
Maybe rear control arm or rear suspension
Maybe front control arm or tie rod
Driver side door

I'm calling the frame shop(s) now to see if I can get the left rear sheet metal tugged out and then I can get it close enough to align and be ready for new rear skin.

[NoHaveMSG]

I may have tie rods and ends, I have stock rear LCA's though you are probably using the SPC's. I'll keep a look out for stuff in my area.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Caution: swear words.

Dude that sucks man.

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