Why not to buy imitation / fake wheels

[nix]

Someone linked this to me on fb (top gear Philippines). ow.

[TylerLieberman]

Old news. Take it to 4283628173827 other threads that are already discussing this topic

[Jimmy]

If you hit something hard enough, any wheel will break.

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

and this


[ame]http://youtu.be/EXs3e2n5zw4[/ame]

[nix]

Originally Posted by Jimmy

If you hit something hard enough, any wheel will break.

Sure, I myself have had serious wheel damaging impacts on my cars over the years. But you want the tyre and outer section of the rim to deform without spoke damage or hub separation. In this example it seems the spokes have sheared without any impact damage to the tyre/rim.

Super dangerous and perfect example of why for $250-500 more per set you should consider even cast enkei/work/gram lights over rota or china brands.

[whaap]

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman

Old news. Take it to 4283628173827 other threads that are already discussing this topic

I appreciate this thread since I missed the other 4263628173827 threads.

[mrk1]

Anyone can google search pics of any broken wheels from any brands, no wheel no matter what brand or price is indestructible.

[Figo]

Here is a pic of real TE37. My friend took this pic. The car lost control and rushed into a lawn. My friend told me that the speed was less than 60mph.

There r lots of broken TE37 pics on Google. This one is not bad cuz the the car was not fast when it rushed into the lawn.

I read a thread long time ago and it showed that on street forging wheels may not be stronger than casting wheels(not fake wheels). They are just lighter, with the same strength level.

So I got Rotas now, and Im gonna save money for TE37s.

BTW Rota are good for DD.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by nix

Sure, I myself have had serious wheel damaging impacts on my cars over the years. But you want the tyre and outer section of the rim to deform without spoke damage or hub separation. In this example it seems the spokes have sheared without any impact damage to the tyre/rim.

Super dangerous and perfect example of why for $250-500 more per set you should consider even cast enkei/work/gram lights over rota or china brands.

Is there conclusive evidence that knock off brands (rota, xxr, etc) are dangerous? I see a lot of statement as "fact", but not much evidence. Also what conditions would you say cause such failures?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[Figo]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Is there conclusive evidence that knock off brands (rota, xxr, etc) are dangerous? I see a lot of statement as "fact", but not much evidence. Also what conditions would you say cause such failures?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

See my post upper.

Rota are heavier. They are just a little bit lighter than OEM rims. My 18X8.5 Grid is 21 or 22 I think. Te37sl is 15 or 16 somthing. But they are strong enough for DD. My friend even use Rotas on track.

Anyway, they are heavier, but with the same strength level. And they are not fake wheels. Rota made OEM wheels also.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Figo

See my post upper.

Rota are heavier. They are just a little bit lighter than OEM rims. My 18X8.5 Grid is 21 or 22 I think. Te37sl is 15 or 16 somthing. But they are strong enough for DD. My friend even use Rotas on track.

Anyway, they are heavier, but with the same strength level. And they are not fake wheels. Rota made OEM wheels also.

Yah that's what I was thinking - some allude to brands like these being dangerous, but I don't buy it. Nor do i see hard evidence. Just because they're inexpensive doesn't mean they'll fall apart. I like cheap wheels, allows me to spend my funds elsewhere regarding track use I'd imagine if they're good for street they'd be good for track - I'd imagine a decent size pothole puts a lot more stress on a wheel than on a smooth track under constant cornering load. All bets are off when you have an off track excursion though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[Figo]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Yah that's what I was thinking - some allude to brands like these being dangerous, but I don't buy it. Nor do i see hard evidence. Just because they're inexpensive doesn't mean they'll fall apart. I like cheap wheels, allows me to spend my funds elsewhere regarding track use I'd imagine if they're good for street they'd be good for track - I'd imagine a decent size pothole puts a lot more stress on a wheel than on a smooth track under constant cornering load. All bets are off when you have an off track excursion though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

Wheels like RPF1 are good for the price. But I just like the TE37 design better. Te37s are way too expensive. So I got Rota Grids for now.

Forging can make wheels stronger than casting does. So Forging wheels can be lighter than casting wheels at the same strength level.

However, it does not means than a 15lbs forging wheel is stronger than a 21lbs casting wheels.

Say, aluminum is stronger than wood. But it will be easier to bend 1mm aluminum than to bend 1m wood.

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Cracked OEM Scion Frs GT86 Brz Rim by smsalsuwaidi, on Flickr

Almost died from this accident with the stock wheels

[Cjymiller]