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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 08-10-2013, 09:59 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
In North America, yes, but over seas the lower spec models come with brakes that IIRC are directly off the base impreza. Smaller discs front, smaller discs rear with solid rotors.

IMO, unless you're overheating the solid rear rotors you're probably fine with just better pads/fluid. You can add stainless lines, but that will just effect feel, not stopping power.
One guy messed up his rear rotors on the trackday, killed all brake bads, and i think he even warped his rear discs. we have guessed it might have been due to the fact he was driving the car with VSC on, and the fact he drives like a tool.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Turdinator View Post
There are a few people here in Aus who have upgraded from the base spec brakes to the upper spec. I have bought them myself and plan to bolt them on in the next month or so. I believe they even fit under the stock 16" wheels.
How much does that cost?

What parts do you need to buy to get this done?

Any need to reprogram ABS or other braking systems?

Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:13 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Suberman View Post
Most braking is done by the front tires so if you want to improve brakes for less money do the fronts first. But, before you spend any money on brakes get better tires. The stock tires on these cars are pretty pathetic. Generally speaking you don't need more brake power until your stock brakes can no longer engage the ABS on dry pavement. Fit better tires first and then consider brake improvements. Bear in mind that better tires will ruin the handling....8-)
I've got Yokohama AD08s on my car, the grip is very wicked.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by OnionTou View Post
How much does that cost?

What parts do you need to buy to get this done?

Any need to reprogram ABS or other braking systems?

Thanks for the info!
I got mine 2nd hand from a guy upgrading to a bbk. I think I paid about $300 for the four disks and four calipers and the dust shields.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:50 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by OnionTou View Post
A couple of guys at our local GT86 club have run into brake system issues. We have a circuit around here and there are trackdays available. 3 people have killed their brakes in 1 track day, and on relatively new brakepads (1000 miles at most).

2 guys ate through their brakepads (and one of them even ended up messing up his discs)
1 guy overheated the system, and ended up losing brakes at the end of the main straight.

There was another guy on the same trackday, he had the top spec (17" wheels with ventilated brakes), didn't have an issue and has tracked his car 2 or 3 times I believe.

I think technique may have a little to do with the life of the pads, but I think part of it is still due to brake system the lower spec has.

When I bought my car, there was a huge price difference (US$ 8k) between the lower spec model and the top spec, the mechanical differences were wheels and brakes. I did my math and realized that for the same money I could go for 18" wheels and stickier tires, and even get a budget BBK for front and back.

Most of guys in the club have changed pads/fluid/lines, and are still pending to track their cars to see the overall effect. What I want from my car are upgraded brake system as a whole. I plan to track my car every now and then, but keep it pretty usable as my weekend ride.

I read somewhere that the rear brakes in my car is the same as the Legacy.
What brake pads and fluid did they use?
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by CSG David View Post
What brake pads and fluid did they use?
Stock pads/fluid.

That's why I'm concerned on upgrading parts before hitting the track.

I'm guessing the car should have taken more breaks, and everything got too hot, which lead to quicker wear of the parts.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by OnionTou View Post
Stock pads/fluid.

That's why I'm concerned on upgrading parts before hitting the track.

I'm guessing the car should have taken more breaks, and everything got too hot, which lead to quicker wear of the parts.
When going to the track, never use stock pads and fluid if you intend to put some serious laps in. Stock pads and fluid are great for people who just want to experience the track for the first time and don't intend to do any level of performance driving afterwards, but it's highly recommended that you don't.

I'll PM you to clean up the topic a bit. Again, there are multiple brake pad compounds that do exactly what they are supposed to do for your intended application. Now if you can fade full on race brake pads with brake ducting, then you will need to upgrade brake components.
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:49 PM   #22
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I have a GT86 and completely fried my front pads and rotors after my last trackday. The stock pads were good for 3 laps and couldn't lock up the front anymore. This time I was running Dunlop Z1's so I think the added grip of the tyre simply cooked the brakes.

Heading to the brake man today to see about the larger slotted rotors plus better pads and fluid. Hopefully they will fit under the standard 16 inch wheels.
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:49 PM   #23
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I have a GT86 and completely fried my front pads and rotors after my last trackday. The stock pads were good for 3 laps and couldn't lock up the front anymore. This time I was running Dunlop Z1's so I think the added grip of the tyre simply cooked the brakes.

Heading to the brake man today to see about the larger slotted rotors plus better pads and fluid. Hopefully they will fit under the standard 16 inch wheels.
First of all, use the right equipment for the job. Your brake pads are overheating for its material make up. Use real track/race brake pads and you'll be fine. I can fade stock pads in 2 corners. It takes a lot more effort to fade track pads.

Second, Slotted rotors won't fix a fade issue. It cuts the pad so you get that extra bite, but it doesn't help you after your brake pads are overheated. Boiling brake fluid is also an issue that just needs to be addressed with better brake fluid.

In conclusion, use the proper brake pads and brake fluid. Even BBKs will fade if you don't use the right pads and fluid. Do it right the first time and you won't have all the issues you have now.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:53 PM   #24
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A few months ago I asked about the brakes on the base GT86 vs the US Spec (or top spec in other countries). and with some advice and difficulty to obtain the vented rotors/calipers for the top spec, I decided the best thing at that moment was to upgrade my current setup with better fluid, better pads and stick to the current vented rotors front, solid rear disc.

I bought some brakepads from CSG (thanks Dave!), but I never got around to install them hoping to swap a bunch of parts at the same time (rotors, fluid, pads, lines).

This week as I was window shopping for rotors (vented slotted rotors front, solid slotted rotors back) I got a call from a friend who was selling his rotors from the upper spec version. Just the rotors, so I would need to buy some calipers.

I kept asking around and it turns out that the price of calipers, would be the same as the cost of the rotors. I can always sell my unused pads to a friend from my local GT86 club.

I've noticed the difference in size of the pads is virtually none (front pads are the same, rear there is a slight 2 mm difference in width). so the contact area with the disc is virtually the same, the key difference is that the rear rotors would be ventilated. How much difference does that make?
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:05 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by OnionTou View Post
A few months ago I asked about the brakes on the base GT86 vs the US Spec (or top spec in other countries). and with some advice and difficulty to obtain the vented rotors/calipers for the top spec, I decided the best thing at that moment was to upgrade my current setup with better fluid, better pads and stick to the current vented rotors front, solid rear disc.

I bought some brakepads from CSG (thanks Dave!), but I never got around to install them hoping to swap a bunch of parts at the same time (rotors, fluid, pads, lines).

This week as I was window shopping for rotors (vented slotted rotors front, solid slotted rotors back) I got a call from a friend who was selling his rotors from the upper spec version. Just the rotors, so I would need to buy some calipers.

I kept asking around and it turns out that the price of calipers, would be the same as the cost of the rotors. I can always sell my unused pads to a friend from my local GT86 club.

I've noticed the difference in size of the pads is virtually none (front pads are the same, rear there is a slight 2 mm difference in width). so the contact area with the disc is virtually the same, the key difference is that the rear rotors would be ventilated. How much difference does that make?
It makes some difference, but not a whole lot. What type of speeds are you seeing? Did you change your tire compound? How much power are you putting down? These are good questions to ask. As long as you keep your brake compound the same front and rear, your braking potential should be at its maximum potential. If you continuously fade, see multiple stress fractures from little abuse, have excessive uneven pad wear from inside and outside pads, and constantly boiling the best brake fluid out there, you should look into upgrading your brake system.
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:52 PM   #26
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I have the "lower" spec GT 86 in Aust, changed my wheels to 17x9 +38.
Upgraded rear rotors to DBA t3 4000 (not ventilated as they wont fit, unlike "upper" spec) and have upgraded front brakes to Buddy Club 330mm BBK.

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Old 11-26-2013, 01:47 AM   #27
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I have the same lower spec car. I've replaced the front with wilwood bbk, and trd rear lines and pads in the rear. Well balanced. IMO you don't need anymore rear braking than that.
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:54 AM   #28
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I have the same lower spec car. I've replaced the front with wilwood bbk, and trd rear lines and pads in the rear. Well balanced. IMO you don't need anymore rear braking than that.
i noticed a little bit of bias when i was bedding in the rotors, but that could have been road surface. got a couple of track days in a few weeks to test them out properly. pb was a 1.10.9 on stock rotors/ferodo ds2500 front pads, stock rear pads. hoping to knock of a second or 2 with the new setup
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