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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 02-24-2019, 07:08 PM   #99
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Good call on that metal bracket under the steering wheel Supertom!

Have you guys thought about also removing the metal bracket that holds the OBD2 port? It's doesn't seem structural at all and to be honest is a hinderance in connecting the obd2. Would rather just have it hang free. However, I'm not quite sure how involved the process is.


Edit: Nevermind -- that bracket extends all the way across behind the climate control knobs to under the glovebox

I'm looking at this piece myself. The drivers side is supported by the plastic, which supports the OBD2. I want to have another look and see if it offers a tapped whole for the plastic on the passenger side.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:41 AM   #100
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I'm looking at this piece myself. The drivers side is supported by the plastic, which supports the OBD2. I want to have another look and see if it offers a tapped whole for the plastic on the passenger side.
Nice! I might just take off the dash and remove it when I get some time. I'm feel like it's just awkward to remove but non-structural.

Just stumbled upon this forum post of some dude's incomplete 7 year project of building the lightest possible porche, basically from scratch. A lot of drilling out the tiniest parts, thought it might provide some inspiration:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...d-projekt.html
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:33 AM   #101
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Nice! I might just take off the dash and remove it when I get some time. I'm feel like it's just awkward to remove but non-structural.

Just stumbled upon this forum post of some dude's incomplete 7 year project of building the lightest possible porche, basically from scratch. A lot of drilling out the tiniest parts, thought it might provide some inspiration:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...d-projekt.html

I have the dash out now. I haven't put it on a scale but it's surprisingly heavy. It's fairly easy to get out. It's going back in for now. The drilling thing doesn't add up to much... but why not. Replacing steel with aluminum or carbon in non structural areas will get better gains. If I reproduced the rad support in aluminum I would have lost around 1.5lb. I'll be looking at that some day. It's weights 1,111g/2.44lbs stock.



Thanks, I've seen that thread. There's another on that forum I've read. I'll try and find it and post it here.


Edit: here's the other thread I was talking about
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-9...st-combat.html

Last edited by new2subaru; 02-25-2019 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:06 AM   #102
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Those porche boys are something else. I tried my best to channel swiss machinist but came up short, nonetheless, it was an interesting project.

I didn't have a shipping scale so no idea how much I took off. I had my center console removed so I added a foam elbow rest. I also entirely removed a third support leg/screw, which I had been leaving unbolted for awhile anyways and figured it wasn't essential.

It definitely flexes more than it used to when you pull hard on it. Maybe I'll leave it in gear for awhile lol.



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Old 02-27-2019, 07:34 AM   #103
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Those porche boys are something else. I tried my best to channel swiss machinist but came up short, nonetheless, it was an interesting project.

I didn't have a shipping scale so no idea how much I took off. I had my center console removed so I added a foam elbow rest. I also entirely removed a third support leg/screw, which I had been leaving unbolted for awhile anyways and figured it wasn't essential.

It definitely flexes more than it used to when you pull hard on it. Maybe I'll leave it in gear for awhile lol.

It looks good!. There's a couple of spots where you left the edges a bit thin but other than that your "swiss machinist" skills are there
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:02 AM   #104
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Damn Great work I didn't think of swiss cheesing the ebrake!
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:09 AM   #105
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this thread has really become awesome.
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:21 PM   #106
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Those porche boys are something else. I tried my best to channel swiss machinist but came up short, nonetheless, it was an interesting project.

I didn't have a shipping scale so no idea how much I took off. I had my center console removed so I added a foam elbow rest. I also entirely removed a third support leg/screw, which I had been leaving unbolted for awhile anyways and figured it wasn't essential.

It definitely flexes more than it used to when you pull hard on it. Maybe I'll leave it in gear for awhile lol.





Im in process of swiss cheesing my ebrake with a hundred tiny holes. It looks like you took yours apart to get to the thick steel behind the pivot area. What did you use to put it back together?? looks like you got some nice shiny brass of whatever those rivets are called
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Old 01-25-2020, 06:55 PM   #107
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Whats your favorite type of cheese?

Mine is Swiss Cheese!

A lot of work to save .5 lbs but it was free
Found it easier to drill smaller holes than bigger holes through the Steel it also keep material around each hole

Original is 3lbs 1oz, got it down to 2lbs 9oz





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Old 01-25-2020, 10:33 PM   #108
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If you were really committed to weight savings you would remove your ebrake completely and save a good amount of weight with the drum brake gone. Just park in gear and maybe carry a chock around. Small piece of wood is probably only a few ounces. I’m only half joking here
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I swear I will punch your car if you put these on. Right in the face.
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Old 01-26-2020, 06:57 PM   #109
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If you were really committed to weight savings you would remove your ebrake completely and save a good amount of weight with the drum brake gone. Just park in gear and maybe carry a chock around. Small piece of wood is probably only a few ounces. Iím only half joking here
OH you doubt my commitment haha. I thought of it trust me but my driveway is a steep hill and my ebrake is needed for just that.

I also thought of removing all the drum brake stuff and just adding a second caliper just for ebrake. Not sure if it would be lighter but would allow for an aluminum drum hat if I could get someone to make 2pc stock sized rotors
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Old 01-27-2020, 10:56 AM   #110
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Also, for those that do the pedal dance, the ebrake is necessary. Otherwise you need something like the nanny86 or some similar device to enable it.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:10 PM   #111
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Not sure if it would be lighter but would allow for an aluminum drum hat if I could get someone to make 2pc stock sized rotors
Doesnt DBA make 5000 series 2 piece rotors in stock size? idk if they retain the ebrake though.

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Edit: here's the other thread I was talking about
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-9...st-combat.html
This is the best build I’ve followed since Project Binky. If I wasn’t bound by STX rules I’d be tempted to drill holes in damn near everything and finally learn to tig weld
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Old 01-27-2020, 09:59 PM   #112
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Doesnt DBA make 5000 series 2 piece rotors in stock size? idk if they retain the ebrake though.



This is the best build Iíve followed since Project Binky. If I wasnít bound by STX rules Iíd be tempted to drill holes in damn near everything and finally learn to tig weld
The DBA's ive found are for the front. Still haven't found anything for the rear. If im mistaken please send a link

Yeah I read through that whole build. He also had a lot of custom titanium parts made as well.

Ive just bought a punch and flare tool to do some experiment on non structural metal...
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