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Old 01-19-2016, 12:21 AM   #407
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Can't wait to install MFactory 1.5way and 4.875FD!!!!!!!!!

Oh wow I didn't realize that mfactory readily made final drives "affordably" for our cars, I have an AT and a 4.67 would be perfect for me
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Old 01-19-2016, 06:45 PM   #408
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Greetings from the land of tomorrow.... (insert funny Futurama ep1 moment)

The car is everything you thought it would be and more.

Installed this mod on the A/T two weeks ago and, though still going through a 500km break in period, it feels amazing. Install went smooth and there are zero vibrations so far, but the break-in does not allow the car to go over 80kph or sit on a steady speed for long.

Speedo did not need any adjusting and it was essentially a straight forward drop in mod. Add an aluminium drive shaft and you have a really solid and relatively cheap mod. Good bang for your buck!

Curious, how long did it take to install on a a/t transmission??
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:32 PM   #409
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I am doing a 4.556 on mine but with a twist. The crown and pinion will be shot pinned and get a nice isotropic treatment for extra strength. Also, I know some of the bearings from Supra MK3 diffs will fit so I am in the process of getting some of that goodness too. (more strength) if anyone has done that and has the parts numbers please let me know.
The carrier will be treated with heath dispersant coat and also install a nice Aluminium cover with 1l increased capacity. I have STI bushes waiting to be installed at the time as well as a nice Axle Exchange Aluminium driveshaft.
This will be the mother of all diffs! Will post pics and info once is done!
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:32 PM   #410
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Curious, how long did it take to install on a a/t transmission??
The shop came highly recommended to me but was pretty far away so I dropped off the car the afternoon prior for a next day install / collection.

They did advise of it being a full day install, but when I contacted them round 2pm, the car was already ready. That said I do know how early in the morning they opened up and started working on the car.

My guestimate, given these are professionals that do that kind of work day in day out, and this shop has done FD swaps on a bunch of twins already.. I'd say about 5 hours.

The thread I linked earlier, with a review of the Cusco 4.556 set, mentioned to prepare for a 7 hour install so there you have it.. between 5 and 7 hours depending on the shop I would guess.

TL;DR depending on shop competency about 5 to 7 hours.
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:30 PM   #411
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Curious, how long did it take to install on a a/t transmission??
So, did you take the plunge on a new FD?
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:26 PM   #412
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So, did you take the plunge on a new FD?
Not yet, its too cold in Canada for any mods right now :|
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:20 AM   #413
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The shop came highly recommended to me but was pretty far away so I dropped off the car the afternoon prior for a next day install / collection.

They did advise of it being a full day install, but when I contacted them round 2pm, the car was already ready. That said I do know how early in the morning they opened up and started working on the car.

My guestimate, given these are professionals that do that kind of work day in day out, and this shop has done FD swaps on a bunch of twins already.. I'd say about 5 hours.

The thread I linked earlier, with a review of the Cusco 4.556 set, mentioned to prepare for a 7 hour install so there you have it.. between 5 and 7 hours depending on the shop I would guess.

TL;DR depending on shop competency about 5 to 7 hours.
Which workshop is that if you dont mind telling, and What's your impression with 4.556, do you think you'd go 4.88 if you were to do it again? i also have A/T , deciding between 4.67 or 4.88
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:46 AM   #414
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Which workshop is that if you dont mind telling, and What's your impression with 4.556, do you think you'd go 4.88 if you were to do it again? i also have A/T , deciding between 4.67 or 4.88
4.556 manual is supposedly equivalent to 4.88 in an auto, so I'd probably do that personally. I have a 4.56 manual.
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Old 02-12-2016, 07:55 AM   #415
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Which workshop is that if you dont mind telling, and What's your impression with 4.556, do you think you'd go 4.88 if you were to do it again? i also have A/T , deciding between 4.67 or 4.88
Award Diff & Gear Box Services Pty Ltd in Seven Hills, NSW

Great bunch of people. Happy to recommend their services.

For an AT daily driver I think the 4.556 is about perfect. Not sure if you drive around in perma sports mode like me, but even regular drive mode feels smoother.

While in sports mode I can comfortably putter around in 4th between around 38 and 60kph compared to previously being in 3rd and only being able to upshift to 4th at about 57kph. Any slower and the auto would down shift back to 3rd.

I can comfortably pop it into 5th at around 67kph for cruising around in 70 to 80kph zones.

As a result I'm actually seeing a pretty remarkable improvement in fuel economy. Simply keep an eye on my fuelly profile (in my sig below) and watch the next few fill ups for a rough idea. Be mindful I do drive enthusiastically with no regard to economy, my daily commute is short and at around 9000km my engine is still loosening up / breaking in so that can also impact on the change in economy of late compared to when new.

The one and only negative I've encountered so far would be the shift from 1st to 2nd being a bit jerky depending on how you accelerate. If accelerating gently from a full stop or flooring it the shift will go smoothly. Somewhere in between those two and it will jerk. This only applies in drive with sports mode activated and is something you get used to and learn the amount of throttle modulation for it to smoothly shift.

Naturally you will find gear breaking more pronounced in sports mode. Previously if I was say driving in a 50kph zone (round suburbia) and coming up to a roundabout I would of been in 3rd and dropped to 2nd, let it gear break down and ease through the roundabout if clear. Now I stay in 4th and only need to drop it to 3rd and still get a decent amount of gear breaking happening to smoothly sail through a roundabout and out again. Kinda hard to explain but being in the higher gear the process feels more fluid and graceful this is still all happening in a strong part of the lower (pre dip) power band.

The elephant in the room here is, as I did fit an aluminum drive shaft at the same time, I'm not sure what sort of an effect it is having in conjunction with the FD ratio. What I can say (since the mod) is the car has better throttle response and feels strangely more solid. Trying to put the feeling into words here. Perhaps the more appropriate way to describe the feeling is there seems to be a complete absence of any slack or play in the drive train now it all just feels instantaneous to even the tiniest of throttle modulation.

When choosing a ratio I would consider what other mods you intend to do down the line. For me this is enough for while the car is still under warranty. Down the line I will look to headers and a custom tune, which when added together with this mod, will make for a pretty quick car. Remember the ratio is a multiplication on top of whatever power you end up making from other mods and a tune.

Yes going a higher gear ratio will make this single mod more effective, but if I add the afore mentioned bolt-on's a tune etc I will end up with some wheel spinning monster needing me to consider other things like needing wider rubber and some supporting suspension mods to reign it all in. Not interested.

Its a daily driver, that I'm happily making small mods to here and there, to refine and improve what it does in a holistic way. Kinda like using a very fine grade of sand paper on a wood carving to gently smooth out some rough patches. The 4.556 ratio has hit that sweet spot for me.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:15 AM   #416
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Does anyone have some rough ideas of 0-62 / 0-100 numbers for these final drive mods.
Just interested to see what diff it would make?
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:31 AM   #417
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Does anyone have some rough ideas of 0-62 / 0-100 numbers for these final drive mods.
Just interested to see what diff it would make?
For manual transmission it would be probably slightly faster.
My guesstimate is .5-1 second faster. Some of the time gained is loss because you would need to shift to 3rd. BUT after 62mph the 4.10's would need to shift(lost time) to 3rd and the 4.56 would already be ahead and in 3rd pulling further away.

I forgot where I read it, but someone mentioned 4.88's in an auto, 30-90mph they gained something like 2 seconds.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:49 AM   #418
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For manual transmission it would be probably slightly faster.
My guesstimate is .5-1 second faster. Some of the time gained is loss because you would need to shift to 3rd. BUT after 62mph the 4.10's would need to shift(lost time) to 3rd and the 4.56 would already be ahead and in 3rd pulling further away.

I forgot where I read it, but someone mentioned 4.88's in an auto, 30-90mph they gained something like 2 seconds.
I wonder the cost to benefit ratio is between a simple re-gear vs. FI?
To me this is a great bang for the buck.
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:08 AM   #419
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For manual transmission it would be probably slightly faster.
My guesstimate is .5-1 second faster. Some of the time gained is loss because you would need to shift to 3rd. BUT after 62mph the 4.10's would need to shift(lost time) to 3rd and the 4.56 would already be ahead and in 3rd pulling further away.

I forgot where I read it, but someone mentioned 4.88's in an auto, 30-90mph they gained something like 2 seconds.
Lunatic is his name and he decreased his 30-90 by like 2 seconds.
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:06 AM   #420
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Cheers for the complete info!
Did you find it still shift gear at the same rpm every gear as with stock FD, Or the ECU shifts based on speed (higher rpm)?
just want to make sure if there's a need for ECU adjustment after the installment


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mim View Post
Award Diff & Gear Box Services Pty Ltd in Seven Hills, NSW

Great bunch of people. Happy to recommend their services.

For an AT daily driver I think the 4.556 is about perfect. Not sure if you drive around in perma sports mode like me, but even regular drive mode feels smoother.

While in sports mode I can comfortably putter around in 4th between around 38 and 60kph compared to previously being in 3rd and only being able to upshift to 4th at about 57kph. Any slower and the auto would down shift back to 3rd.

I can comfortably pop it into 5th at around 67kph for cruising around in 70 to 80kph zones.

As a result I'm actually seeing a pretty remarkable improvement in fuel economy. Simply keep an eye on my fuelly profile (in my sig below) and watch the next few fill ups for a rough idea. Be mindful I do drive enthusiastically with no regard to economy, my daily commute is short and at around 9000km my engine is still loosening up / breaking in so that can also impact on the change in economy of late compared to when new.

The one and only negative I've encountered so far would be the shift from 1st to 2nd being a bit jerky depending on how you accelerate. If accelerating gently from a full stop or flooring it the shift will go smoothly. Somewhere in between those two and it will jerk. This only applies in drive with sports mode activated and is something you get used to and learn the amount of throttle modulation for it to smoothly shift.

Naturally you will find gear breaking more pronounced in sports mode. Previously if I was say driving in a 50kph zone (round suburbia) and coming up to a roundabout I would of been in 3rd and dropped to 2nd, let it gear break down and ease through the roundabout if clear. Now I stay in 4th and only need to drop it to 3rd and still get a decent amount of gear breaking happening to smoothly sail through a roundabout and out again. Kinda hard to explain but being in the higher gear the process feels more fluid and graceful this is still all happening in a strong part of the lower (pre dip) power band.

The elephant in the room here is, as I did fit an aluminum drive shaft at the same time, I'm not sure what sort of an effect it is having in conjunction with the FD ratio. What I can say (since the mod) is the car has better throttle response and feels strangely more solid. Trying to put the feeling into words here. Perhaps the more appropriate way to describe the feeling is there seems to be a complete absence of any slack or play in the drive train now it all just feels instantaneous to even the tiniest of throttle modulation.

When choosing a ratio I would consider what other mods you intend to do down the line. For me this is enough for while the car is still under warranty. Down the line I will look to headers and a custom tune, which when added together with this mod, will make for a pretty quick car. Remember the ratio is a multiplication on top of whatever power you end up making from other mods and a tune.

Yes going a higher gear ratio will make this single mod more effective, but if I add the afore mentioned bolt-on's a tune etc I will end up with some wheel spinning monster needing me to consider other things like needing wider rubber and some supporting suspension mods to reign it all in. Not interested.

Its a daily driver, that I'm happily making small mods to here and there, to refine and improve what it does in a holistic way. Kinda like using a very fine grade of sand paper on a wood carving to gently smooth out some rough patches. The 4.556 ratio has hit that sweet spot for me.
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