CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[jvincent]

I believe it's officially called the rear crossmember mount, but yes, it needs to be lowered a bit to insert the bushings.

The DIY has good pictures of this.

Once you have all the bushings fitted, you need to raise the crossmember back up otherwise you won't get the bolts in. This is for the rear bushings. For the front bushings you need to support/lower the differential and make sure that the rear bolts aren't fully tightened.

[sittinSideways]

Hi all,

I am looking for a set of coilovers under 2000 for me to use on the track, with limited amounts of street driving. Comfort is not at all a factor for me, I simply want pure performance. My car will be set up as such:

- naturally aspirated
- 17x9 +35 with 235/40 high performance street tires wrapped on them

I've been looking at the fortune 510 series and was wondering if there were any other options.

[Turkish]

Originally Posted by sittinSideways

Hi all,

I am looking for a set of coilovers under 2000 for me to use on the track, with limited amounts of street driving. Comfort is not at all a factor for me, I simply want pure performance. My car will be set up as such:

- naturally aspirated
- 17x9 +35 with 235/40 high performance street tires wrapped on them

I've been looking at the fortune 510 series and was wondering if there were any other options.

The experts might disagree with me, but in your budget you might be better off looking at springs and shock replacement instead of coilovers. Decent track quality coilovers are probably going to run you 3k+, unless you are buying used. Bilstein B8 + springs will probably run you about 1k, plus then you will need alignment goodies which would probably run another $600 minimum if not more depending on parts (you would need LCAs with the rear with coilovers anyway, so add a minimum of 2-300 to your coilovers). That is my $0.02, I personally went with the B8's with RCE Tarmac springs.

[STV3]

Any info as to how the TRD springs on the stock struts affect the handling of the FRS? I've read a few reviews from people that have purchased them and they all seem to be positive but there is no info as to how the car is affected during cornering.

Really would just like to reduce the fender to wheel gap while keeping the same handling and feel of the stock suspension.

[jdubious]

I spent much of my free time this week reading this thread.....whew!

Anyways, I don't really have the funds for expensive parts right now but am interested in adjusting camber on my stock suspension. I saw the topic of the Whiteline rear adjuster kit come up a few times but it seemed to almost be avoided by the experts. I don't think installing them will be a problem for me but after studying the pdf I have questions about the design(no opinions needed)

Does the longer adjuster bolt bottom out inside the essentric tube or does is jam against the short bolt when adjusting? The instructions say the front and rear bushings must be adjusted together(aimed in the same direction) but with everything installed you cant see them. Therefore you will have to judge strictly by the position of the control arm relative to the subframe whether or not they are aimed the same. Here is where it gets fun....since the adjuster bolts face each other and can only be rotated clockwise, when you get one about where you think you want it the other can not simply be turned to match. You will have to go a complete rotation in the opposite direction until it comes around, by then you realize thats not quite right and the process starts again. If the adjuster bolt does in fact bottom out inside the tube you could at least mark the bolt to indicate the exact direction the cam is pointing....I believe this would help a great deal. If the adjuster bottoms out against the short bolt....it might be a deal breaker for me.

Also, slotting the front struts appears to be difficult to do on the alignment rack. If done with the wheels off what would be a good amount of material to remove? I figure adjustments between OEM and -2.5 would be plenty, if thats even possible...idk. It appears at some point the knuckle is just going to hit the strut, idk where that would put the camber. I dont want to remove any more material than necessary but then again....I don't want to be back and forth from the shop to the alignment rack.

Maybe slotting the struts on the alignment rack ain't so bad???

OH!! BTW.....you guys are doing a great service for this community! It took me all this time to find this thread....There must be many others who need it but still don't know.

Edit- wow, i just read this PDF http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro_...ges/3100IS.pdf It says to use a torch to remove the old rubber mounts..PU

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by jdubious

I spent much of my free time this week reading this thread.....whew!

Anyways, I don't really have the funds for expensive parts right now but am interested in adjusting camber on my stock suspension. I saw the topic of the Whiteline rear adjuster kit come up a few times but it seemed to almost be avoided by the experts. I don't think installing them will be a problem for me but after studying the pdf I have questions about the design(no opinions needed)

Does the longer adjuster bolt bottom out inside the essentric tube or does is jam against the short bolt when adjusting? The instructions say the front and rear bushings must be adjusted together(aimed in the same direction) but with everything installed you cant see them. Therefore you will have to judge strictly by the position of the control arm relative to the subframe whether or not they are aimed the same. Here is where it gets fun....since the adjuster bolts face each other and can only be rotated clockwise, when you get one about where you think you want it the other can not simply be turned to match. You will have to go a complete rotation in the opposite direction until it comes around, by then you realize thats not quite right and the process starts again. If the adjuster bolt does in fact bottom out inside the tube you could at least mark the bolt to indicate the exact direction the cam is pointing....I believe this would help a great deal. If the adjuster bottoms out against the short bolt....it might be a deal breaker for me.

Also, slotting the front struts appears to be difficult to do on the alignment rack. If done with the wheels off what would be a good amount of material to remove? I figure adjustments between OEM and -2.5 would be plenty, if thats even possible...idk. It appears at some point the knuckle is just going to hit the strut, idk where that would put the camber. I dont want to remove any more material than necessary but then again....I don't want to be back and forth from the shop to the alignment rack.

Maybe slotting the struts on the alignment rack ain't so bad???

OH!! BTW.....you guys are doing a great service for this community! It took me all this time to find this thread....There must be many others who need it but still don't know.

If you use a 14mm camber bolt (like SPC) in the lower front strut hole combined with the OEM crash bolt in upper hole (this is simply the lower stock bolt being moved to the upper hole) you can get somewhere between -2 and -2.5 in the front. I am currently at -2.4.

[asdf]

If I am looking to just get to around 1.5" of camber up front, is it worth the extra little bit of $ to get the whiteline camber bolts or would the oem 'crash bolts' suffice?

[Bobblehead]

I decided to buy the Whiteline Rear diff and subframe bushing kits.

Upon installing the rear diff bushings, I can't find the torque specs for this circled bolt. If anyone knows what torque it is, please tell me.



Thanks!

EDIT: And if anyone could give me the torque specs for the other diff bolts and the sway bars, it'd be much appreciated.

[FastWhite]

DIY - Whiteline Rear Crossmember Mount Insert Bushings
2013 Scion FR-S Factory Service / Shop Manual
The above as well as google. There is a wealth of information
in the Do It YoufSelf section

[FastWhite]

DIY - Whiteline Rear Crossmember Mount Insert Bushings
2013 Scion FR-S Factory Service / Shop Manual
The above as well as google. There is a wealth of information
in the Do It YoufSelf section

[Bobblehead]

Thanks, but I already searched. If you reread what I posted, I said I'm having trouble with the rear differential bolts, not the subframe.

I downloaded all the service manuals and can't find any torque specs for these bolts. I wanted to exhaust all resources before I asked.

[jvincent]

The forward diff bolts are 70 ft/lb. The bolts on the rear part are 46 ft/lb.

[Bobblehead]

Thank you!

[Panman]

Are the RaceSeng CasCams:


1. Worthwhile with Std Shocks.
2. Available with perches for the standard springs.