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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#29 |
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I kind of TL;DR'd the thread a bit. People get less shitty with you when you post in the right forum, so that's probably why you didn't get the brunt of it.
![]() I promise this isn't a sales pitch, but for a non-factory boosted DD, and knowing what I know after reading through FI threads for several months, I'd probably just go supercharger. Quite a few less things to worry about. No stressing about potential oil leaks since you're not adding anything into the chain. Not as much of a need for an oil cooler, since again, you're not adding anything into the chain (though your engine will work harder and therefore it will get hotter). Overboosting is just not a thing. It physically can not happen, since for any given RPM and pulley size, your supercharger is blowing at a given pressure. It's also easier to install supercharger kits versus turbo. Especially if you get a positive displacement style, rather than centrifugal. All this in mind, I'm a big turbo guy. My last two cars were a big turbo STi, and a Golf R, which I still drive. I was pretty hesitant to go SC but I'm more than happy with mine. Feels like I have a big V6 now, actually. Also, @brzaapi, weird, there's like 3 or 4 of us running a BRZ and an R. Edit for additional thoughts: Don't get too stuck on hard numbers. If you're thinking of another car with 350 WHP, think of its weight. Consider the power to weight ratios involved here. These things weigh nothing compared to the average car, and even ~280 is quite a bit. Also keep in mind that once you start getting too far over 300-350 depending on the weather, mood of the factory workers, and day of the week your car was built, things start to get iffy as far as other components.
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#30 | |
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#31 | |
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I like the kit a lot. It's well made and comes with everything you need. The supercharger and manifold with runners are all preassembled in the box, MAP sensor already installed to protect it during shipping, which is smart. The water pump is pretty beefy and has a massive heat sink on its underside. The included hoses are bent just right to fit where they should with little to no issue. The Low Temp Radiator is just the right size to fit between your AC condenser and crash beam with only a couple of millimeters of room, so they went as thick as they could. The added bracketry is excellent, OEM quality really, as well as the idler pulley that's added. There's a wiring harness that extends from the water pump to your MAP and MAF sensors, which is also well made and exactly the length you need it to be, without too much extra play to zip-tie off, as well as the extension for your throttle body. Hose clamps are a bastard to install, but that's a good thing, because they clamp with the force of a thousand meathead muscle men. I'll gladly take the frustration of dealing with those things if it means my hoses stay where they're supposed to be. There's even an a provision in the manifold for a boost gauge, where you can remove the plug and install a proper fitting. I have one design complaint, and it's that the intake filter box is stupid as hell. The filter is a K&N that needs a grease seal on the edges, which I hate to begin with, but the main issue is that when you try to seal the filter box together, all it wants to do is force itself apart. You really have to squeeze the shit out of the filter box, and then thread the bolts in, to actually get it to bolt together. I have about 600 miles on it and it's a lot of fun. I'm still finalizing the tune (it's really about done), but it runs strong and very linear, and like many of us say, it feels kind of like a V6, as you might expect with a positive displacement blower. I can't comment on how the CARB tune runs, if you're looking for an out of the box solution on that, since I had no intention of running it, plus my mods were already past it in the first place. All things considered it's a great kit for a daily, and I think it fills the gap between the Innovate 210 and 335 nicely, giving you room to grow. ![]()
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#32 | |
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#33 |
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Tomei UEL, Tanabe Overripe (would not buy again, shitty welds imo... not convinced changing OP does much anyway, though I'm sure many that can't understand dyno variation will dispute this), Tomei catless titanium front pipe, Perrin 2.5 resonated CBE.
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#34 | |
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I know what you mean mind. I'm new to the forum as I've just picked up a BRZ but it did cross my mind on what is the biggest car/bike site chestnut. Running in, oils etc Perhaps we should have a poll? Mind you I haven't searched to see if there already has been one ![]() |
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#35 | |
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#36 |
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No. If you track the car it would be recommended but at no stage is it necessary.
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#37 | |
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Edit: Unintentionally avoided question. No, I don't feel an oil cooler is entirely necessary unless you're running it hard. My oil temp hovers around 210. Here's an oil temp of 206 after driving for 25 minutes. ![]() That being said, I will be building an oil cooler eventually for autox use.
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#38 |
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#39 | |
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#40 | |
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It looks like he's running android head unit, with the app torque.
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#41 |
Boost Creep
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Innovate ECB-1, lots of LED fuckery, and an android head unit with the worst Bluetooth OBD reader for less critical gauges.
Torque sucks and I'm trying to get away from it.
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#42 |
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It does it'd be nice if it had a much better refresh rate, but there's so much delay involved between bluetooth to interpreting the data to displaying it that I think they tried there best lol
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