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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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10-29-2018, 03:24 PM | #1 |
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Engine oil cooler install/mounting
Can someone give me some pointers/advice about using a universal kit vs. a kit with cut to length hoses, brackets, yet? Normally, I don't mind buying away a headache, but $350 for a bracket and hoses is pushing it.
Is it fairly easy to find a place to mount a heat exchanger? Also, is it fairly easy to tap into the hoses coming out of the factory in tank heat changer or do I basically need the sandwich plates? |
10-29-2018, 03:44 PM | #2 |
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I bought a Perrin kit, but ended up mounting it myself, since the Perrin kit doesn't include mounting for the crash beam. I just used a couple of T-brackets, some self-tapping sheet metal fasteners and metal spacers. It ended up working out well enough.
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10-29-2018, 03:59 PM | #3 |
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Yes, there are holes in the floor panel in front of the radiator where you can mount the cooler with no drilling required.
You are going to need an aftermarket sandwich plate as our cars don't come with one from the factory. I believe you'll also need a spacer that the sandwich plate sits on top of. If you don't mind buying away a headache, I think the Racer-X unit is great at only $600 which comes with a Setrab 613 cooler. http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...oil-cooler-kit |
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10-29-2018, 04:17 PM | #4 |
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^ This, but get the 619 and top mount location.
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10-29-2018, 04:27 PM | #5 |
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Just get the Jackson Racing, which includes a sandwich plate that has bungs for additional sensors (e.g. pressure), and includes a 915 core.
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10-29-2018, 04:31 PM | #6 |
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My advice is don't mount to the plastic
I enjoyed my jackson racing NA cooler which mounted to the stock crash bar. It even survived a front end bump without a dent
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10-29-2018, 04:38 PM | #7 | |
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I don't have nearly as much experience as you with these cars, but I have ot imagine that even a small EOC would be enough for a mostly stock engine. It's not like it's boosted or anything. |
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10-29-2018, 04:42 PM | #8 |
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Just get the Jackson Racing one, it works exceptionally well and the installation was relatively painless considering. The sandwich plate and hoses it comes with is extremely well put together too. I'd trust it over anything I'd cobble together myself off Summit Racing anyway, which is why I decided to buy my headache away.
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10-29-2018, 05:45 PM | #9 | |
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Engine RPMs will dictate oil temps, and as you've seen, this engine does rev higher than most LS/LT. A V8 does put more stress on the oil temps, because you have more surface area being swept/cooled by the V8, essentially double the amount of surfaces, but that's why a lot of vettes have heat issues when driven hard, showroom stock! Even with the 915 core, a fast driver pushing the car hard, will be at about the upper limit of what I'd be comfortable with in terms of oil temperatures. |
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10-29-2018, 06:06 PM | #10 | |
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If you drive down the highway at 55mph at 5k rpm for 20 min, your oil won't like it. If you put a giant sail on your car and were WOT at 55mph for 20 min, you'd probably be buying a new engine. Engine load is literally part of the calculations we did to determine appropriate heat changer sizes for every fluid. As far as Corvettes- there are a number of reasons they have such high engine oil temps. Air inlet size, engine heat exchanger size, etc, etc. It's not just the oil either. Often, the coolant overheats before the engine oil. On the Z06 it's literally every fluid. That thing, especially pre 2017 with an auto, is an embarrassment and a disaster. A guy at the track with me was running neck and neck with me in a stingray overheating his 2018 (so much upgraded cooling) manual Z06. Complete joke. Out of curiosity, what is your limit for comfort for engine oil temps?
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10-29-2018, 07:22 PM | #11 | |
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I generally will be careful at 250F, and would do a full stop at 260F. My turbo car sits at about 235F max. |
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10-29-2018, 07:34 PM | #12 | |
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Maybe it's my cars, but I'm fine with engine oil temps below 275. 290 I stop (though, my GS never sees that). I have friends that run 300 all day (and some race teams do too).
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2014 BRZ: Full track car. Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, OMP, bolt ons, aero, etc,
2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2018 GLE 63 AMG: +800hp whistling AWD TT V8 grocery getter 2016 GX460: IDK. Too reliable to sell. Too boring to use. |
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10-30-2018, 03:05 AM | #13 | |
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Do your other cars run 0W20? I would hope more heat is transferred *into the coolant* with more power. Friction is generated by surface area and velocity, with very low relation to actual output. Think about how much displacement a LS/LT has, vs displacement, vs coolant area, vs that of a FA20. Another way to think of it, is that the LS/LT makes more heat due to the pure amount of area involved, with zero relation to the actual output. Here's a great way to verify output, vs heat. Try cruising in your vette at 6000 rpm, at 70 mph. It takes very little output to maintain 70mph in the vette right? Being generous, maybe 20hp at most. Yet, that oil temp keeps creeping up... |
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10-30-2018, 10:46 AM | #14 | |
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