Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[mb_]

Nope, unfortunately not

[CSG Mike]

Well, you're braking as you're turning... you generally want to brake in a straight line.

[mb_]

I'll have to find a better video when it's more obvious and where I actually have the wheel pointed straight.. It happened at a different track where I didn't even turn the wheel

[ZionsWrath]

I've had what you are experiencing. I chalked it up to alignment because everything with the car was fine. After I got another alignment it braked true. But yea it's puckering if you are braking an inch away from grass at 115 xD

[Xevuhtess7]

What was the before+after alignment settings that fixed the wiggle for you?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Xevuhtess7

What was the before+after alignment settings that fixed the wiggle for you?

Mainly it's going to be making sure you have no thrust angle, and that your settings are even left/right.

[Joesurf79]

Hello Fellow Track junkies!
I have a bunch of track related coilover spring questions.




Background: I was recently blessed with a fantastic bonus that allowed me to pick up my dream damper setup - a set of MCS 2 way non remote coilovers. I had been lusting after for a year, and after multiple phone conversations, I went with the vendor recommendation on spring length. The springs I got are 7" long Hyperco 650# /in and the rates feel great on track. Finally got the damping set where I like it - and these things are great.


Except (!!) a few times when on a bumpier track this past weekend, with the car loaded up at apex or just after - I would hit a small bump and hear / feel a stop/clunk from the rear like I am bottoming out?


One of three things is happening, right?

1) hard parts making contact. I have looked for witness marks or impact marks on all of the arms and have seen no signs of contact on any of them.
2) Damper running out of travel. Not sure how to diagnose if that is the issue
3) Coil-bind is stopping the damper travel. I have removed the springs and looked between coils from all angles and see no evidence on the powder coat that they are making contact with each other.


These are the first set of non-factory dampers I have had, and they did not come with bump stops. Should I source some and see if it goes away? How concerned should I be if I bottom out a handful of times a day? I don't want to damage these things - they are like precision instruments in my mind and I don't want to break / damage / ruin them.


And finally - regarding the spring lengths. To get the ride height that was recommended to me, the front dampers are out of threads on both sides using the 7" springs. The rears have several inches of thread room left. Would a longer spring - say an 8" in an identical rate theoretically have more stroke and possibly achieve less bottoming, or would that only be if the impact was hitting coil bind?


In the front, could I get away with a 6" spring in the same rate and possibly have some more adjustability?


Lots of questions, lots of thanks to anyone with info / data to share

[DandoX]

Hey @CSG Mike,

Thought I'd ask you since I can't seem to find the post where I saw this information in the past. I remember seeing a post I belive it was from you where you said '13 cars had some sort of issue on the track with rapid movements from the throttle. My car was built in April 2013 and I'm getting close to paying it off and taking it to the track. What can I do to fix this or prevent it from happening?

Thanks in advance

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by mb_

I'll have to find a better video when it's more obvious and where I actually have the wheel pointed straight.. It happened at a different track where I didn't even turn the wheel

At that particular turn there is a seam 2/3rds out on the track. Inside of the seam it cambers in a few degrees, outside it fades just a touch. Don't know if that could contribute.

[mb_]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I've had what you are experiencing. I chalked it up to alignment because everything with the car was fine. After I got another alignment it braked true. But yea it's puckering if you are braking an inch away from grass at 115 xD

I'm actually getting my alignment done before my first track day this season, I'll report back if it still happens after

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

At that particular turn there is a seam 2/3rds out on the track. Inside of the seam it cambers in a few degrees, outside it fades just a touch. Don't know if that could contribute.

Ah that makes sense, I will keep that in mind!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Xevuhtess7

What was the before+after alignment settings that fixed the wiggle for you?

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Hello Fellow Track junkies!
I have a bunch of track related coilover spring questions.




Background: I was recently blessed with a fantastic bonus that allowed me to pick up my dream damper setup - a set of MCS 2 way non remote coilovers. I had been lusting after for a year, and after multiple phone conversations, I went with the vendor recommendation on spring length. The springs I got are 7" long Hyperco 650# /in and the rates feel great on track. Finally got the damping set where I like it - and these things are great.


Except (!!) a few times when on a bumpier track this past weekend, with the car loaded up at apex or just after - I would hit a small bump and hear / feel a stop/clunk from the rear like I am bottoming out?


One of three things is happening, right?

1) hard parts making contact. I have looked for witness marks or impact marks on all of the arms and have seen no signs of contact on any of them.
2) Damper running out of travel. Not sure how to diagnose if that is the issue
3) Coil-bind is stopping the damper travel. I have removed the springs and looked between coils from all angles and see no evidence on the powder coat that they are making contact with each other.


These are the first set of non-factory dampers I have had, and they did not come with bump stops. Should I source some and see if it goes away? How concerned should I be if I bottom out a handful of times a day? I don't want to damage these things - they are like precision instruments in my mind and I don't want to break / damage / ruin them.


And finally - regarding the spring lengths. To get the ride height that was recommended to me, the front dampers are out of threads on both sides using the 7" springs. The rears have several inches of thread room left. Would a longer spring - say an 8" in an identical rate theoretically have more stroke and possibly achieve less bottoming, or would that only be if the impact was hitting coil bind?


In the front, could I get away with a 6" spring in the same rate and possibly have some more adjustability?


Lots of questions, lots of thanks to anyone with info / data to share

I have no knowledge of your setup other than what you've posted, which is spring rates and lengths. These questions are really questions you should be asking your vendor, who provided you the parts, and are familiar with exactly what was provided. For years, I've preached with high end dampers, that you go with whoever is giving you the best support, as all the high end stuff is similarly good.

Typically, for spring rates that high, I would expect to see helpers so that travel is not an issue, and with much shorter springs. I can see how getting to the recommended height is an issue.

You'll need to isolate the clunk, but it could just be a slightly loose spherical, or it could be springs binding as they compress; thrust washers or teflon washers should be provided to prevent that. Binding from compressing the spring, with those rates and lengths, should not be possible at all.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DandoX

Hey @CSG Mike,

Thought I'd ask you since I can't seem to find the post where I saw this information in the past. I remember seeing a post I belive it was from you where you said '13 cars had some sort of issue on the track with rapid movements from the throttle. My car was built in April 2013 and I'm getting close to paying it off and taking it to the track. What can I do to fix this or prevent it from happening?

Thanks in advance

Your car should be okay, but if you want to play it safe, throw on an updated base map.

[Joesurf79]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Typically, for spring rates that high, I would expect to see helpers so that travel is not an issue, and with much shorter springs. I can see how getting to the recommended height is an issue.

... Binding from compressing the spring, with those rates and lengths, should not be possible at all.

Thanks for the insight Mike! If I am understanding correctly, I could probably get away with a 6" spring at this rate in the front? I have a set of 60mm zero-rate Hyperco helpers/locating collars on the workbench as a matter of fact...



Thanks also for the coil bind comments, I haven't seen any evidence of it to this point, so I figured it was unlikely.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Thanks for the insight Mike! If I am understanding correctly, I could probably get away with a 6" spring at this rate in the front? I have a set of 60mm zero-rate Hyperco helpers/locating collars on the workbench as a matter of fact...



Thanks also for the coil bind comments, I haven't seen any evidence of it to this point, so I figured it was unlikely.

4 or 5 inch main springs with hypercoil helpers are typically used on CSG spec JRZ setups. With Bumpstops.

If you're "bottomed out" on the spring perch adjustment range to get to the drop you want, then shortening the main spring 1 or 2 inches shouldnt be an issue.