A/C Schrader valve

[Brooklyn]

Has anyone replaced or repaired the schrader valve for the A/C system (low pressure line)? Looking to find parts and or DIY to do so.

Background: A/C not blowing cold. The source of the leak appears to be this valve. No damage or evidence of leaks at the hose or other connections. Had a recharge by the dealer about a year or two prior. After unscrewing the cap I see colored dye on the stem (I suppose the dealer put dye into the system to try and find leaks). Also, the cap appears to not screw on tightly (maybe the threads were crossthreaded?)

Thanks!

[Mr.ac]

The cap is of no importance it's just there to cover the nippple.
As for the dyi you can buy the tire valve removal tool to take the valve off.
I'm no ac expert but if I can't figure it out I'll just take one for the team and pay a pro to fix it.

[maslin]

Low side fitting often has dye in it from when the dye was installed.

Valve can leak, they are easily replaced if you have the right size valve and tool, some are standard tire size, some are bigger.

The bigger problem is getting a proper recover, vacuum and weighed recharge.

[RZNT4R]

∆∆∆∆∆

This, don't diy your car a/c. You probably wouldn't try to diy your fridge.

The dealer added dye through the low pressure port, it isn't abnormal to have an accumulation in there, in fact it's reassuring. If that valve was leaking, that little puddle wouldn't have stayed there.

Also, r134a is some serious greenhouse effect stuff, about 1400 times more than CO2 so there are strict rules about how it is to be handled, please go to a qualified mechanic that will evacuate the system properly, leak test it correctly and recharge it right.

[ActionMaxon]

Your A/C may not be to blame. It is possible the blend door motor is not functioning properly. If this is happening, the motor will not be able to go from "hot" to "cold". Sometimes the plastic gears in them break and they just don't work right. Usually when they fail, they are stuck at one spot, or they make noises.

If you were up for it, you could remove your blend door motor and manually move the door to full cold, with the A/C running to see if you get cold air output. If you do, the motor is bad. If not, keep looking.

As far as diagnosing the suspected leak, I would clean the dye off the low side pressure port. I recommend "brake clean" which you can buy at any auto parts store. Use safety glasses. This stuff will eff your eyes up if it gets a chance. Just spray a little spritz in there with quick short bursts until you no longer see any dye. Allow the brake clean to dry, and re-install the cap (if there is dye in the cap, clean that out in the same manner to ensure you don’t trick yourself into thinking it is in fact leaking).

Then run the car with the A/C on, and engine RPM at approx. 1500-2000 for a minute or so to get your system going. Shut the engine off and look for dye at that port. If you see none, check again in a week. If you still don't see any dye after a week it is most likely a left-over from when the vehicle had oil/dye injected into it.

The shrader valves in A/C systems are seldom the leak point, in my experience. Check for dye at the A/C compressor clutch, and hoses. You can also check the evap drain hose on the bulkhead. If your evaporator is leaking, there may be dye build up on that drain hose. It's usually the compressor or hose connection points where the seals fail.

Hope that wasn't too much. Just trying to be helpful. haha. GOOD LUCK!

[frs23]

I have replaced the Schrader valve on a TSX.

You need to evacuate your system and recapture the r134a in your system first if there is still refrigerant
Then you may need a new dryer because you system has been exposed to air and moisture -it depends how bad your leak is
Swap the Schrader value with a removal/install tool.
Vacuum the system and pull out all the air, then charge the system.
Certainly watch a few youtube videos

Before you consider this you do need to find the leak. It may not be the Schrader valve as others have mentioned. You should clean off the dye, maybe charge the system again, and see where it is leaking. It could be leaking in more than one location too, -- at the valve and somewhere else.

Equipment you will need is
Schrader valve tool
Schrader valves
r134a
r134a compatible dye (incase it leaks in the future)
Scale to weigh how much refrigerant is applied
Pump and recapture system
Master gauge setup to read high and low side

You don't save much money given the equipment you have to purchase for the first time, but it is a great learning experience.