AVO Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[robr]

Originally Posted by Whatabouteggs

Graphs? Graph graphs?

Since humpre doesn't post much, I'll grab his files from work tomorrow if he doesn't post before tomorrow night. Assuming I have his permission.

[DesertFrs]

Just wanted to post my last tune from @DeliciousTuning earlier this year. Going back for some more mid Feb.

[GremlinGSP]

Does anyone know how to source a replacement part for this kit?

I need to source a new turbo to airbox pipe. I've tried emailing avo but no luck so far. Tried one of my vendors and they said their not able to get parts either.

[Lonewolf]

Originally Posted by GremlinGSP

Does anyone know how to source a replacement part for this kit?

I need to source a new turbo to airbox pipe. I've tried emailing avo but no luck so far. Tried one of my vendors and they said their not able to get parts either.

Avo's super responsive customer service team at it again?

[DesertFrs]

Originally Posted by GremlinGSP

Does anyone know how to source a replacement part for this kit?

I need to source a new turbo to airbox pipe. I've tried emailing avo but no luck so far. Tried one of my vendors and they said their not able to get parts either.

Have you tried getting a hold of Paul on here?

[robr]

Here's one of humpre's graphs. From memory, he has an AVO kit with upgraded wastegate (still wasn't holding too well up top), 3" exhaust, whatever the normal AVO downpipe size is, Perrin intake. He can chime in if I have any of that incorrect. Tuned by ATS Racing.

Peaked at 1 bar (14.7psi) on E85.

[Simisimi]

Running the 8PSI spring (stage 1.5) that we dialed up to 9PSI with high flow cat and overpipe replacements. Seeing 291HP at the rear wheels on a Mustang Dyno. I'm told that roughly equates to 320/325HP on a DynoJet. Paul at ECS in Windsor Lochs CT did the tune and it runs great. Noticed that under 1/3 tank of fuel I can have fuel slosh issues between 4th and 5th redline shifting. More fuel in the tank solves that.

[kbogarto]

Originally Posted by Simisimi

Running the 8PSI spring (stage 1.5) that we dialed up to 9PSI with high flow cat and overpipe replacements. Seeing 291HP at the rear wheels on a Mustang Dyno. I'm told that roughly equates to 320/325HP on a DynoJet. Paul at ECS in Windsor Lochs CT did the tune and it runs great. Noticed that under 1/3 tank of fuel I can have fuel slosh issues between 4th and 5th redline shifting. More fuel in the tank solves that.

Nice numbers! I've never heard of anyone having fuel slosh issues. What symptoms does this produce?

[Simisimi]

Originally Posted by Whatabouteggs

Less compression makes it easier to increase boost without worrying about detonation as much. However there are new tools available on modern cars that make turbos more reliable and more effective. On old carbed engines the answer was low compression, large displacement, and biggest turbo you could find, then drive around with a screwdriver in your hand hoping it doesn't blow up. FI has changed the game in that respect, and the ECM suite on the FA20 has a ton of features that even sophisticated engines from the early 2000s didn't offer. Crank position resolution, direct injection, and better supporting and tuning mods (like widebands, MAP sensors, knock sensors, failsafe conditions, temp sensors, etc.) have made it possible to run silly amounts of boost on engines with very high compression.

That said, the FA20 clearly was not made for boost. LNF's in cobalt SS's have 9:1 compression with DI, but they also run 23psi stock. Most people with reliable FI on these engines seem to top out at around 14psi on pump gas, with some notable exceptions. E85, methanol, and race gas make it much easier to make more power safely. Plus these engines are still extremely new, and knowledge isn't in supply yet.

In the end, these days a modified engine is only as good as the person that tuned it. For every 400whp on 93 success story, there are a bunch of 250whp cars that blew up on the dyno that you may or may not hear about. Unfortunately, it's difficult to nail down who the good tuners are, and shops like to change names and addresses to purge their reputations.

Personally, I'm going to hold off until I find a local/semi local tuner with an excellent reputation, and I'm waiting for someone who has been running high boost for 10k-20k to post some blowby comparisons. As it is, people keep talking about stock engines with boost as a temporary condition and built engines as mandatory, and that makes Vorshlag's LS swap kit seem like a far better option.

My Tuner has done thousands of tunes, mostly on Subarus of all types, and tells me that the FA20 with dual fuel systems and FI is one of the most challenging tunes he has encountered. In the end we seem to have a very lively and stable car at 9PSI but he believes this is very near the edge of compromising long term reliability. My AVO went in at 2000 miles and I've got 4000 more since then. So far, aside from an issue caused by the common failure of the OEM high pressure fuel pump, it's been solid. When you consider the engine output is nearly double factory spec it's remarkable. Time will tell!

[Simisimi]

A very brief loss of power and the fuel light comes on!

[Astroboy]

Here's a horrible incident I encountered on my car
Passenger side
NOTE: I am NOT blaming this on the turbo kit, just bad luck

I ordered a valve cover gasket to replace the current one. It'll be a great learning experience at least.

[kbogarto]

Originally Posted by Astroboy

Here's a horrible incident I encountered on my car
Passenger side
NOTE: I am NOT blaming this on the turbo kit, just bad luck

I ordered a valve cover gasket to replace the current one. It'll be a great learning experience at least.

Please excuse my ignorance but what exactly am I looking at?

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by kbogarto

Please excuse my ignorance but what exactly am I looking at?

Just the valve cover on the passenger side. At the bottom of the pic you could see the over pipe.

Originally Posted by kbogarto

Please excuse my ignorance but what exactly am I looking at?

[protpibe]

The likelihood of a valve cover gasket leaking is extremely low.

Are you sure that's not oil that ran down the side of the engine? Is that on the passenger side? My guess would be oil scavenging pump cam plate leak, or oil feed line underneath the injector ECU cover.

Edit: i'm guessing thats the overpipe in which case I would suggest looking into the two possibilities I posted above. I'm guessing if you pull the FI ECU cover you'll notice some oil pooling beside the feed line.