Can't Turn After Wreck Repairs

[Strife26]

Hey all, (See last 2 paragraphs for the ask)
I got in a wreck a while back (March, 2018). I had some really bad tires ($60 special wooo). They worked exactly as you'd expect; I went to change lanes and pass someone and the car went into a good spin like a jet fighter gets stuck in...

So I spun and spun across 4 lanes and hit a wall. I was only going 50ish (accelerating from 30-40 to 50 to pass). It was our first big rain of the season. I had my son with me and it was pretty scary thinking of what could have been. The car wasn't too beat up, but it did need to be towed and repaired. The door had a decent dent and the front left wheel was pretty jacked up as it took the brunt of the damage.

I allowed Geico to take care of it not knowing that I had a choice. Well they took it to YES NAME DROP__Taylor Motors Collision Center__ and they did a terrible job repairing the car and charged Geico $9000+. It was initially 5k, but ONE coil over was bad and the price jumped to 9k after they replaced it (and I had to contact Tein to get the replacement info because the company was too dumb to figure it out, sorry to be mean, but they sucked bad).

Here is a list of their repairs in my own description:
GLUED my bumper back on with industrial lvl glue.
Quick paint touch up on the bumper (pock holes all over cause it was just a spray over, not a paint job and I don't know why they bothered)
Electrical tape job on my side marker light looked terrible (but internal so who cares I suppose)
Bumper still has a big crack in it
Hood didn't get fixed and it was above the fender on one side and below it on the other.
There were holes in my drivers seat
There was a huge gouge in the fiberglass under-body as if they don't know how to drive a lowered car (not stance, just clean wheel gap). It wasn't caused by the wreck
The center cap doesn't fit snugly on the new wheel (which I had to find for them to replace it because reading models is hard).
And much more...

So the main reason for this post is to ask how I can fix my damn driver side wheel. I can no longer turn around on my street when making a left turn. I cannot back out of places without the tire rubbing real bad. It rubs at like 1/4 turn left. It never scraped before and the passenger side does not rub still (wasn't hurt in the wreck).

How can I fix the wheel to stop rubbing? I re-did the alignment myself and it helped a tiny but, but not enough. I am learning all the car stuffs as I go along, and I have not done a lot of work on the suspension, at least on this level yet. What could I do to fix it? I assume and hope they got the proper parts, but the sway bar is closer to the LCA on the driver side than the passenger side (idk if this matters). I can fit fingers or a finger in between it on the passenger side, but can't even fit 1 finger on the driver side. Might they have replaced it with the wrong LCA? Or maybe the sway bar was damaged and they didn't replace it? Any help would be appreciated.

I would like to do the work myself, but if it's 100% imperative that I take it in and pay MORE monies, I can.

[evomike]

Originally Posted by Strife26

Hey all, (See last 2 paragraphs for the ask)
I got in a wreck a while back (March, 2018). I had some really bad tires ($60 special wooo). They worked exactly as you'd expect; I went to change lanes and pass someone and the car went into a good spin like a jet fighter gets stuck in...

So I spun and spun across 4 lanes and hit a wall. I was only going 50ish (accelerating from 30-40 to 50 to pass). It was our first big rain of the season. I had my son with me and it was pretty scary thinking of what could have been. The car wasn't too beat up, but it did need to be towed and repaired. The door had a decent dent and the front left wheel was pretty jacked up as it took the brunt of the damage.

I allowed Geico to take care of it not knowing that I had a choice. Well they took it to YES NAME DROP__Taylor Motors Collision Center__ and they did a terrible job repairing the car and charged Geico $9000+. It was initially 5k, but ONE coil over was bad and the price jumped to 9k after they replaced it (and I had to contact Tein to get the replacement info because the company was too dumb to figure it out, sorry to be mean, but they sucked bad).

Here is a list of their repairs in my own description:
GLUED my bumper back on with industrial lvl glue.
Quick paint touch up on the bumper (pock holes all over cause it was just a spray over, not a paint job and I don't know why they bothered)
Electrical tape job on my side marker light looked terrible (but internal so who cares I suppose)
Bumper still has a big crack in it
Hood didn't get fixed and it was above the fender on one side and below it on the other.
There were holes in my drivers seat
There was a huge gouge in the fiberglass under-body as if they don't know how to drive a lowered car (not stance, just clean wheel gap). It wasn't caused by the wreck
The center cap doesn't fit snugly on the new wheel (which I had to find for them to replace it because reading models is hard).
And much more...

So the main reason for this post is to ask how I can fix my damn driver side wheel. I can no longer turn around on my street when making a left turn. I cannot back out of places without the tire rubbing real bad. It rubs at like 1/4 turn left. It never scraped before and the passenger side does not rub still (wasn't hurt in the wreck).

How can I fix the wheel to stop rubbing? I re-did the alignment myself and it helped a tiny but, but not enough. I am learning all the car stuffs as I go along, and I have not done a lot of work on the suspension, at least on this level yet. What could I do to fix it? I assume and hope they got the proper parts, but the sway bar is closer to the LCA on the driver side than the passenger side (idk if this matters). I can fit fingers or a finger in between it on the passenger side, but can't even fit 1 finger on the driver side. Might they have replaced it with the wrong LCA? Or maybe the sway bar was damaged and they didn't replace it? Any help would be appreciated.

I would like to do the work myself, but if it's 100% imperative that I take it in and pay MORE monies, I can.

do not do anything, call Geico right now and tell them that their shop of choice performed a sub standard repair and you are taking it to a shop to have this corrected. It may take some time but they will put you in a rental and they will pay to have your car repaired properly at a shop you choose.

[Strife26]

They told me I need to take it back to the same place, which is why I came here. I've already replaced the bumper and hood because geico told me to bring it back to them and I'd rather not.

Should I push for a new shop?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

[Strife26]

Ya. It was aligned at big o tires I think (idk if that's a bad thing or not). I also checked it and slightly adjusted it at home. It seems good no pull or anything.

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[Tcoat]

What exactly is it rubbing on? Could it just be the fender liner?
I am with Evomike on taking it back but almost a year has gone by so they may just tell you to take a hike.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by Strife26

Ya. It was aligned at big o tires I think (idk if that's a bad thing or not). I also checked it and slightly adjusted it at home. It seems good no pull or anything.

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How exactly did you check the alignment at home? Alignment machines measure the car on a calibrated level surface to the 0.01 of a degree.

And ditto take it to a real shop, something is off.

[evomike]

Originally Posted by Strife26

They told me I need to take it back to the same place, which is why I came here. I've already replaced the bumper and hood because geico told me to bring it back to them and I'd rather not.

Should I push for a new shop?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

they will usually ask you to give the shop a chance to fix it but they cannot force you to use that shop again, if you paid for those other repairs and have proof that you did it because of their work they should pay for that.

[Strife26]

It's rubbing on the body, the metal portion not the lining (I wish that were the case). I can get images and videos if it matters or helps. I turn the wheel left and the back inside of the tire rubs the body.

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[evomike]

if this has recently come on it sounds like something either came loose or you bent something.

[Summerwolf]

Sounds like something is seriously bent. What did they use to verify the chassis and suspension was straight when they began repairs?

[Strife26]

Originally Posted by Summerwolf

Sounds like something is seriously bent. What did they use to verify the chassis and suspension was straight when they began repairs?

Probably rocks, idk. They are terrible and I really didn't want to go back after all the shit they did. I put em on blast and they asked me to bring it back and the claim rep said bring it back. I don't care if they can fix it. They did such a terrible job I wouldn't ever want to bring even a beater to them to touch. After I mentioned their glue job I was the bad guy for wanting access behind my bumper; "well why do you need to be able to take it off." if that doesn't tell you their work ethic...

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[Strife26]

I'll run it by our only shop in town that has a guy who knows anything about Subarus and tuner/modded cars and get his 2 cents on the car I guess. I was hoping to do it myself, but suspension isn't something I've played with enough yet.

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[wparsons]

If the hit was hard enough to bend the left front shock (assuming that's the one that was replaced?), and break the wheel, I'd bet that the LCA and/or subframe is bent too.


The original shop is clearly terrible and didn't actually do any of the work they said they did. I would be all over the insurance company and adjuster making sure they saw the terrible repairs. Not only should the car be going somewhere else, the insurance company should be getting their money back from the first shop.


Forget a local tuner shop, the car needs a proper repair shop that can ensure the frame is straight.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by wparsons

If the hit was hard enough to bend the left front shock (assuming that's the one that was replaced?), and break the wheel, I'd bet that the LCA and/or subframe is bent too.


The original shop is clearly terrible and didn't actually do any of the work they said they did. I would be all over the insurance company and adjuster making sure they saw the terrible repairs. Not only should the car be going somewhere else, the insurance company should be getting their money back from the first shop.


Forget a local tuner shop, the car needs a proper repair shop that can ensure the frame is straight.

If it is rubbing the body then this ^^^^