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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 09-04-2014, 09:02 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by victorb View Post
If motul, go for 300v only. Had bad experience with the h-tech variant
I'm not sure what the h-tech variant is but in these cars you should be running the 8100 series full synthetic.

The 300v is NOT intended for extended drain intervals as they do not include the same additive packages that you find in the 8100 series which is intended for street use.

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Old 09-04-2014, 09:04 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Draco-REX View Post
Here's my experience with Motul:

I compete in SCCA RallyCross and my last car was a 03 WRX with a swapped STI V7 6MT. I used both Subaru Extra S and Motul 300. The Extra S began to lose its heat resistance after about a year of competition. Once the oil got some good heat in it, shifting would begin to get a little notchy. The Motul lasted through two seasons before I started noticing a drop in smoothness.
I'm not sure how many events you partook in but in road course track events we change out the trans and diffy fluid, even Motul once a season if it needs it or not.

Glad to hear the Motul Gear 300 worked for you.

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Old 09-04-2014, 09:05 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by viscositosis.rex View Post
There can be no doubting that Motul is great product. They seem to have among the highest amount of esters in their base stocks. I remember Joey saying something along those lines. What about Red Line? What about group 3+ ? Are you finding that only 300V and Signature Series/Dominator stand up? I will search the UOA thread herein. It must make for some interesting reading. TY.
The 8100 series has worked well for our clients especially those who have done UOAs after 6-8K miles.

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Old 09-04-2014, 09:08 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by GotMunchies? View Post
What intervals do you see with the 8100 for street use?
Our clients use the 8100 for anywhere from 5-8K miles depending on their driving style is.

We have been alternating 300V 5w30 and Motul 8100 0w20 on our Project BRZ with 3000 mile intervals which includes about 2-3 track weekends during each of those 3000 mile intervals.

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Old 09-06-2014, 12:10 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by BRZ21 View Post
You're right about how they work however the fluid that is associated with the clutches in differentials is separate. Which is why that style of diffs is not very popular among the used market... You can't change or replace it. Sucks. Otherwise I'd already have an na miata...
That's exactly what I said. The clutch style differentials use a friction modifier in the oil.

There is no need to use the motul with the friction modifier for LSD as the FRS uses a Torsen and has no clutch pack. Using it won't hurt anything but it isn't necessary.
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:07 AM   #34
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Motul is a fad like wearing underwear is a fad.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:26 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Roadcone View Post
Its currently the "in" oil... it'll change in a few years again.
Motul has been "in" for many years now. It only appears to be a fad now because this is a relatively new board and there are a lot of first time enthusiasts here. Motul has been good for a while and will continue to be

Also, OP, there are many many oil analysis and data on NASIOC for Motul. 300v is a true race oil and is a big deal in the tracking community around here. (Texas)
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:13 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by victorb View Post
Had bad experience with the h-tech variant
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZP Installs View Post
I'm not sure what the h-tech variant is but in these cars you should be running the 8100 series full synthetic.
H-tech 0W-20 is primarily an Asian/Aussie oil. Compared to Eco-lite 8100 0W-20, it is thinner in all temps and probably has a lower High Temp High Shear.

https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1339474108

https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1375489501

Being that it is thinner and meets newer API/ILSAC specfications, I presume it is geared more towards better fuel economy over wear protection.

-Dennis
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:41 PM   #37
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Ever since I did the Motul Gear 300 swap in my transmission and differential, I have noticed a huge improvement in shifting and smoothness with the car. I really wish I would have done this sooner than 18k miles. It is well worth and I believe that Motul does live up to a high quality product. Real road experience has convinced me over the past 2,000 miles.

Majority of driving is daily so I don't know how this contends with the track users, but I am happy with it.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:48 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDog View Post
That's exactly what I said. The clutch style differentials use a friction modifier in the oil.

There is no need to use the motul with the friction modifier for LSD as the FRS uses a Torsen and has no clutch pack. Using it won't hurt anything but it isn't necessary.
LSD is an umbrella term. Torsen falls under that category. So do clutch style lsds, whatever they're called. Like the ones on old miatas
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:05 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by FR-S Matt View Post
Ever since I did the Motul Gear 300 swap in my transmission and differential, I have noticed a huge improvement in shifting and smoothness with the car. I really wish I would have done this sooner than 18k miles. It is well worth and I believe that Motul does live up to a high quality product. Real road experience has convinced me over the past 2,000 miles.

Majority of driving is daily so I don't know how this contends with the track users, but I am happy with it.
Gear 300 is good for the tranny especially when you're putting a lot of heat into the system. When oil breaks down, it becomes harder to get into gear. While Gear 300 doesn't have issues with heat, it sometimes feels a little notchy when it is cold. You'll notice there are always some compromise. OEM fill usually feels the best in the cold, but also begins to suffer in high temps.

Gear 300 LS works better for track related use for the additional frictional modifiers. It just feels different. It's not something most people will notice on their everyday drive.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:16 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by CSG David View Post
Gear 300 is good for the tranny especially when you're putting a lot of heat into the system. When oil breaks down, it becomes harder to get into gear. While Gear 300 doesn't have issues with heat, it sometimes feels a little notchy when it is cold. You'll notice there are always some compromise. OEM fill usually feels the best in the cold, but also begins to suffer in high temps.

Gear 300 LS works better for track related use for the additional frictional modifiers. It just feels different. It's not something most people will notice on their everyday drive.
Mike, correct me if I am wrong, but the Gear 300 LS can't be used in the trans because it isn't GL4 rated? Only the Gear 300 NON-LS can be used in the Trans, that's one reason we use the non-LS across the board so that we can put in rear diffy and trans without issue.

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Old 09-10-2014, 12:20 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRZ21 View Post
LSD is an umbrella term. Torsen falls under that category. So do clutch style lsds, whatever they're called. Like the ones on old miatas
I was pretty specific in my post.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:47 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by AZP Installs View Post
Mike, correct me if I am wrong, but the Gear 300 LS can't be used in the trans because it isn't GL4 rated? Only the Gear 300 NON-LS can be used in the Trans, that's one reason we use the non-LS across the board so that we can put in rear diffy and trans without issue.

-Mike Paisan
Sorry for the miscommunication. Gear 300 LS in the differential only. We use Gear 300 for tranny.
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