Another V8 Swap

[cf6mech]

***ALERT*** THREAD JACK***.....Ok Ladys and Gentlemen....WRX2002.....is the guy who found Colin of MRS Electronics...and his BRZ is outragious .....surprised he is on here as he is the most busy guy I have ever met......you all should see his build.....he works on it very little because of other comittments but has shared some with me.........his welds are aircraft worthy.....he has helped me outt in a very large way.This was I think a year ago....[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5GDEaYuJ8Ek[/ame]

[wooly35]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Yeah I am going to be working on moving mine out from behind the radiator. Looking at what bends I need. I need to grab a slim fan set-up. The factory one is quite large and looks out of place with everything else.

@cf6mech Will do! I am going to see if I can hold the engine from the top and drop the subframe. Take the oil pan off, check everything from underneath and modify the pan. Also going to ask a local shop about a tubular subframe to give me extra clearance all around.

You can hold the motor up and drop the subframe.. I did it to change out my cracked oil pan. Its a pain, because you have to take literally everything apart that ties into the subframe. ( I didn't, but it would have made the job easier if I had) But still better than pulling the motor.

[DustinS]

I have about 1500 miles on the last oil change. Gone from full line on dipstick to the low line. Running German Castrol 0w-40. Saw this recommended by the Joe Gibbs guys as it has the high zinc content. Going to grab a quart of it until next oil change.

Texas Speed told me to switch to a 10w-40 to help with my oil pressure... I think I will just up to a 15w-50 as that is what they run on engine brake in. Was hoping to grab Valvoline VR1 in a 10w-40 or 15w-50. Neither are available. So just going to order Amsoil.

I need to get a catch can for the valley plate as well.

[all4spl]

There is no reason you need to be running oil that thick.. Something is wrong.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by all4spl

There is no reason you need to be running oil that thick.. Something is wrong.

15w-50 is a common oil used for stroker engines from what I have been seeing. Has to do with bearing clearances set. Engine has a few more months to blow up. I'm not taking it easy either lol

Pretty sure Traction Control is working to a certain degree. I have been noticing it for awhile now. Yesterday I had the traction off as it was raining and I wanted to do some testing. I turned it back on, traction light flashed and the car felt like it cut throttle for a second until light stopped flashing and went back to normal. Not sure if throttle or maybe brakes?? Anyway. Need to do more testing.

[MRS-Colin]

Originally Posted by DustinS

15w-50 is a common oil used for stroker engines from what I have been seeing. Has to do with bearing clearances set. Engine has a few more months to blow up. I'm not taking it easy either lol

Pretty sure Traction Control is working to a certain degree. I have been noticing it for awhile now. Yesterday I had the traction off as it was raining and I wanted to do some testing. I turned it back on, traction light flashed and the car felt like it cut throttle for a second until light stopped flashing and went back to normal. Not sure if throttle or maybe brakes?? Anyway. Need to do more testing.

The vehicle really has no way to cut throttle unfortunately. Might be wishful thinking.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by MRS-Colin

The vehicle really has no way to cut throttle unfortunately. Might be wishful thinking.

Well it's doing something.

Going to try to get into the back yard and play around

[all4spl]

It's possibly applying brakes?

[DustinS]

Possibly. I need to see if the factory traction control has control of the brake system.

Found a set of Hankook Ventus TD Z221 C3 compound in 285/30 and C7 compound in 295/30 for about $260 for the pair. Thinking about picking up the 295/30 set to see how well they work. They are 2 years old, but stored in a tire shop, so shouldn't be too bad.

[DustinS]

Early Apology if things don't make sense. I was just kind of rambling. TLDR - Fixed some things - Car responded by running worst. Until it ran sort of fine.

My friend/old Boss let me toss my car up on the lift Saturday to give the car a once over and try to figure out the vibration I was having. I wouldn't have found it had he not done that. Turned out to be passenger rear wheel bearing had the smallest amount of play, only noticeable if you were really paying attention. Got it replaced with a local autopart store replacement. See how long that one last haha. I want to swap out the studs, not sure how
strong they are.

I also melted ANOTHER plug wire.... Noticed the hesitation and hick-ups under WOT. Didn't notice the sparking till the next night. Did my best to try and prevent it. Used up the last of my metal heat shielding. Trying to get the plug wire plugged in is a total nightmare.

Changed the Diff Fluid and checked the trans fluid while the car was in the air. Transmission still has a tiny fluid leak, but not enough to cause issues. The fluid was still right at the fill plug. Transmission makes all sorts of gear rattle noise and shifts are super notchy and don't feel good. That is what prompted me to check the fluid level, but seems fine. Going to switch from Mobil 1 ATF to Amsoil that has been recommended and hope it gets better. It could very well be the pretty much solid bushings that come with the Vorshlag mounts. I am thinking about making custom mounts to use a factory mount to make it a little nicer.

Diff Drain Plug - Not Bad


New Hub


Old Boss was looking over the car with me and noticed the driveshaft had a lot of "drag". Thinks that might be an issue. Also found one of the e-brake bolts has been rubbing the driveshaft. Guess I didn't use enough washers.

Had a car strapped on the dyno for tuning come monday so I couldn't dyno my car, but we are going to set some time aside for that. Really interested in getting it on the dyno more for data than Number. I want to make sure fuel pressure is staying good. Need to check what temps the headers are getting to. Cause I have a feeling they get too hot/hotter than expected. Haven't got my replacement wideband 02 sensor in yet, and currently don't know the AFRs. Car smells SUPER rich though, and the exhaust pipes are black and even when cleaned/polished don't stay that way longer than a day.

Got all that done and took a trip ~45 minutes away to meet my family and hang out. On the way home had a honda trying to play with me, I got fed up, down shifted to 5th and eased into it. Car felt a little underpowered, but I was also in 5th gear. Pulled away hard at 3/4 throttle until ~4200-4500 rpm where the car fell on it's face. I clutched in and the car acted as if nothing happened. Car would run great until heavy throttle to about 4000 rpm or so. That was Saturday, Did more testing yesterday with same results, except eventually it cleared up. I had an issue in second gear at 2500 rpm and again in third gear. Car was fine until the throttle was 100% and then it would cut out. After a couple times, I didn't have an issue. Tried to not push my luck as I didn't REALLY want to break anything. I'll fill up at a known good gas station to try and rule out poor gas. I did get the car past the 1/4 tank mark though. I haven't been brave enough to go till the light comes on without a 5 gallon tank in the trunk. Need to get the testing done before the honeymoon.

[DustinS]

Griffin Radiator

Looking at this radiator. Wanting something with the inlet/outlet in the correct place for the LS. Not much larger than the Full Blow one, just Thicker at 3" thick haha.

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Griffin Radiator

Looking at this radiator. Wanting something with the inlet/outlet in the correct place for the LS. Not much larger than the Full Blow one, just Thicker at 3" thick haha.

Been looking at the same ones,,, just a bit narrower. At $173 tough to beat the price. They dont recommend welding on these so we can't add mounts etc.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26242-x




I wonder what a custom one from them that would drop in and work with the existing mounts might go for??? I roughly measured 28 1/2" OC for the mounts and 14 1/4" high.

[DustinS]

19" might be a bit too tall depending on how you orient it. I know the mishimoto radiator is 16" tall total which I would assume is height of stock radiator and I kind of wish it was a bit shorter to make a straight intake easier. Going to look at measuring up a custom one that is shorter to make intake easier.

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by DustinS

19" might be a bit too tall depending on how you orient it. I know the mishimoto radiator is 16" tall total which I would assume is height of stock radiator and I kind of wish it was a bit shorter to make a straight intake easier. Going to look at measuring up a custom one that is shorter to make intake easier.

Sorry,,, grabbed the wrong one from Summit. The 15 1/5" tall ones come in a couple of different widths. I was thinking about 26" wide with room for a side air intake,,,,, maybe.


I'd like to hear about pricing on a custom one.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25221-x