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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 02-18-2019, 03:02 PM   #15
NoHaveMSG
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I got to know the local county sheriff as a teenager doing plug chops on empty back roads when tuning on two stroke bikes. How else did they expect me to do it?

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Old 02-18-2019, 04:31 PM   #16
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Those old plugs look good.
I grew up checking spark plugs in snowmobiles but with 4-strokes and modern injected 2-strokes, those days are gone. Nothing like getting a jolt off the plug while checking for fire. Lucky, I stihl have my modded chainsaw. Even then a pulse tach is needed.
Here's some Kevin Cameron of Cycleworld Magazine.
https://www.cycleworld.com/how-do-yo...cle-spark-plug
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:21 PM   #17
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Those old plugs look good.
I grew up checking spark plugs in snowmobiles but with 4-strokes and modern injected 2-strokes, those days are gone. Nothing like getting a jolt off the plug while checking for fire. Lucky, I stihl have my modded chainsaw. Even then a pulse tach is needed.
Here's some Kevin Cameron of Cycleworld Magazine.
https://www.cycleworld.com/how-do-yo...cle-spark-plug
Yep, hot, bright, sunny summer day, the gasoline engine on the grain elevator wouldn't start. My father checked the gas, felt like it had compression, come here son, hold this while I pull this rope -

I wonder what todays CPS would have to say about THAT!


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Old 02-19-2019, 09:42 AM   #18
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Yep, hot, bright, sunny summer day, the gasoline engine on the grain elevator wouldn't start. My father checked the gas, felt like it had compression, come here son, hold this while I pull this rope -

I wonder what todays CPS would have to say about THAT!


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Same story just replace "grain elevator" with '1954 Ford dump truck engine' and "pull the rope" with 'connect these wires'.
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:41 AM   #19
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Same story just replace "grain elevator" with '1954 Ford dump truck engine' and "pull the rope" with 'connect these wires'.
Or replace it all with electric hog fence, and "hold my glasses while I grab this wire"
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:04 AM   #20
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I broke one on my old ae86. Took me like 2 weeks to realize I should get help in taking it out. Mechanic came over and in like 40sec took it out. Learned a lesson. “Don’t wait too long when changing them and use anti seize.” It’s well worth it. I’m not even going to try for this car. Don’t wanna mess it up with how uncomfortable it’ll be in doing this.

I hope my plugs look the same. I’m doing brakes this paycheck. Running 18 TRDs puts more wear on my brakes. Next paycheck plugs. Gonna stick with oem Denso.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:20 PM   #21
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What side is easier to change? Drivers or passengers?
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:27 PM   #22
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What side is easier to change? Drivers or passengers?
No.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:05 PM   #23
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What side is easier to change? Drivers or passengers?
both suck equal. had to remove the DI computer on the passenger side.
had to remove the injector cover for the driver side.
removed the strut braces for both.

Also I read that putting a conductive grease on these can mess with the grounding.
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Old 02-20-2019, 05:43 PM   #24
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Was hoping one side had more room than the other so I could chalk up a win and build my confidence to tackle the other side. But I guess not.

Approaching 100k miles and already bought the spark plugs and belt.
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Old 02-21-2019, 11:10 PM   #25
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those look like my 2000 accord's spark plugs that i first changed at just about 200k lol. God i miss that car, so stupidly reliable!
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Old 03-04-2019, 02:21 AM   #26
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Used An extension a hose and a magnet. Ive read or heard somewhere your not supposed to lube these plugs
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Damn that would make it harder. I just pulled the flex out far enough I could see it connect to the short extension I was using, then shoved a flat blade in there and twisted them apart.

I never heard not to lube them. I don't put plugs in without never seize. I have fixed enough stripped threads I don't care to have to deal with it again if I can avoid it.
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Also I read that putting a conductive grease on these can mess with the grounding.
The corrosion you see is simply due to slight moisture and the effect of dissimilar metals, the aluminum in the head interacting in a galvanic process with whatever the spark plug is made out of as well. Also the heating and cooling cycles they go through make this plug normal and would've definitely effected it's ability to be removed had you waited 30-40k more





You really should listen to what others posted like @NoHaveMSG, @Tcoat or others. NGK only says not to use anti-seize because they believe clueless mechanics will over torque things, which is technically true. You're torque wrench becomes offset by 20% with the use of antiseize or a lubricant, but you can easily just correct for this with simple math.

The grounding is a non-issue, that's done through the coil packs not through the threads. Get yourself some vibratite 9072 or loctite 76764 and apply a conservative amount to the threads....
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:40 PM   #27
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Those don’t look bad at all. I’m over 100k miles on mine and got a good deal to do mine so I went ahead and did it.

Had the guy save the old plugs. The head of mine looks like your but didn’t have the dark color on the white. Think I could have gone another 50k on mine.
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:45 PM   #28
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Plug condition was vital for diagnosing issues. The ECU has done away with many of those problems though.


I think I need to take a shower after seeing that picture... Thankfully only 7k miles so far. Another 53k to go!
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