Balance

[d1ck]

Originally Posted by blackhawkdown

Why upgrade the suspensions when stock suspension is kicking your ass? You could put the money to something else?

If you bothered to read my post you would see that the problems arose when I changed my setup and tires.

[Sleepless]

I don't know about AX, but for a track car setup, I wouldn't go with a 1.5 difference between front and rear camber. I generally like it closer to a .5 degree difference. Going from -2.5 to -1.5 in the rear must certainly have changed the relative grip balance between front and rear.

Overall, I think you've made too many changes at one time. I'd at least go back to the stock front bar and put the camber back in the rear or put it halfway to -2.

[Sleepless]

After thinking about this a bit more, I think you really need to put the suspension back to the way you had it and try that with the new tires before changing the suspension. Tires are HUGE in terms of effect on a car's handling.

Undoing so many changes one item at a time is likely to be a lot of wasted and unhappy time. Put it back and change only one thing at a time (the golden rule of suspension tuning...)

[CSG Mike]

Go back to how you had it before. YOu're making too many changes at once.

Try 0 toe in the rear.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

I don't know about AX, but for a track car setup, I wouldn't go with a 1.5 difference between front and rear camber. I generally like it closer to a .5 degree difference. Going from -2.5 to -1.5 in the rear must certainly have changed the relative grip balance between front and rear.

Overall, I think you've made too many changes at one time. I'd at least go back to the stock front bar and put the camber back in the rear or put it halfway to -2.

You like the camber that close on a car that gains a lot of camber in the rear and essentially none up front during compression? That'll shift the grip balance to the rear under load as the rear picks up more grip. Ideally you want the grip balance about equal under load, which means unequal static camber.

I guess it feels safer having a car start to push as it builds cornering forces, but it's harder to control and definitely slower IMO.

[Sleepless]

@wparsons I did not know about the variance in F/R camber gain. Good info. Thx


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[d1ck]

I'm going to remove the Strano Bar tonight and maybe reduce the ride height a bit to bring the rear camber back closer to where it was. I'm not sure what my f/r ride height was before though.

[d1ck]

Is keeping the stock rake of 1/4" higher in rear a good idea?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by d1ck

Is keeping the stock rake of 1/4" higher in rear a good idea?

That's more of an aero thing that doesn't affect AutoX much, but yes.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

@wparsons I did not know about the variance in F/R camber gain. Good info. Thx


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The fronts basically gain 0 camber through compression, while the rears gain quite a bit.

My car is sitting at -2* rear with just a 1" drop, nothing adjusted in the camber. Up front after the 1" drop the camber was still basically 0, it took whiteline bolts and slotting the strut to get to -2* up front.

The camber curve isn't linear, but under load the rears will be at -3* or greater (less?) while the fronts stay at -2*.

[d1ck]

Thought I'd post an update for those who offered me advice. I removed the Strano FSB and installed the stock one. The car is much better now. I may actually add a bit more rear toe in as I find the car will over steer much easier now, I just want to be careful not to over do it.

Also,
a short review of the Bridgestone RE-11A:
They have plenty of grip, although are a little soft. I think they're a little slower than the Rivals overall, but there isn't a huge gap IMO. They make lots of noise at the limit too which is nice, however they don't seem to handle heat as well as the Rivals either. I had a re-run for one of my runs (100 second course) and shortly into my second run the grip fell off and I was sliding everywhere. Once cooled they were much better. I run my my tire pressure at 34psi hot F/R. EDIT: Also, they seem to be wearing much quicker than the Rivals as well.

Here are the results from this weekend for anyone interested. (See the last post in this thread.)

http://vinland.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2990

[TrogDor the Burninator]

I love the KW V3 spring rates ... the softer front made a huge difference in my lap times and overall happiness in steering at my track days ...

yes there is a tinge of body roll, but if you have near -3 camber in the front, you don't need to worry about it affecting your grip ...